Detailed information on using essential oils for soap making. Includes max usage rates and how many teaspoons of essential oil can be used in a soap recipe.
If you want to naturally scent handmade soap, you need to use essential oils. These highly scented flower and plant essences are natural but in such high concentrations that you need to be careful with them. If you use too much you’ll not only waste money but your soaps could cause skin irritation.
There’s some confusion as to which essential oils can be used in soap making and how much of each you can use. I’ve listed some of the more common essential oils below along with how much of each can be used in a batch of soap. The information includes maximum percentage in a recipe, maximum amount in ounce and grams, and also how much in teaspoons can be used in a one pound batch of soap.
Natural Soap Making for Beginners Series
If you’re new to making your own soap have a read through this free four-part series from Lovely Greens. It includes all the basic information you need for natural soap making.
How much essential oil can be used?
It’s tricky to answer just how much essential oil can be used in soap recipes. I’ve seen different recommendations but base my own soap recipes on what the stricter European Union outlines. Just remember that just because essential oils are ‘natural’ does not mean that they are always safe. Using too much in soap can cause all kinds of issues including skin irritation and photo sensitivity. You can’t be too careful if you’re making natural soaps to give to loved ones or the public.
All the naturally scented soaps I make through Lovely Greens Handmade use less essential oil than outlined below. In my opinion, there is no need to exceed the maximum usage rates set by the European Union.
Essential oils can scent soap with a fragrant range of floral, herbal, woodsy, and spicy scents
Calculating how much essential oil to use in soap
I spent quite a lot of time calculating teaspoon amounts for the essential oils in the chart. They are based by calculating first calculating the maximum amount of essential oil in grams that can be added to one pound soap batches. Please note that some essential oils have lower rates than others. Then using the specific density of an essential oil I calculate how much you can use in tsp. Most people like to use teaspoons to measure essential oils but I’ve also listed weight for convenience.
For example, in a 1lb (454g) batch of soap you can use a maximum of 3% lavender essential oil (Lavandula angustifolia flower oil). The specific gravity of this oil is 0.905g/ml.
- 3% of 454g is 13.62g — this is the total amount of lavender essential oil by weight that you can use in the recipe
- 0.905g/ml describes how much lavender oil weights by volume. Dividing 13.62g by this number will give you how many ml of lavender oil you can use in the recipe. In this case, 15.05ml.
- 15.05ml is about 3 tsp (3.12 tsp to be exact)
Creating an Essential Oil Blend
The last column of the chart gives essential oil blend recommendations. Creating blends can be a complex (yet fun!) business but the main idea is:
- 30% of a blend should be Top Notes
- 60% of a blend should be Middle Notes
- 10% of a blend should be Base Notes
Please also keep in mind that the total amount of essential oils in ounces or grams should not exceed 3% of the soap recipe. Some essential oils should not exceed 1% or 2% of the total recipe so please be careful.
Handmade soap with pink clay for natural color and a blend of floral essential oils. See the recipe here
Essential oils for Soap Making
The EU considers an essential oil usage rate of 3% or less to be safe in wash-off products like soap. For clarification, that 3% of the total amount of soaping oils in a soap recipe by weight. 3% of a one pound batch of soap is a total of 0.48 ounces or 13.6g.
This chart includes many of the most commonly used essential oils for soap making but there are others too. Before using any essential oil, please do research on how much can be safely be used in soap.
The amounts in teaspoons listed are rounded down to the nearest 1/4 teaspoon. You’ll also notice that the teaspoon amounts will differ between essential oils even if the oz/grams are the same. That’s because some of the oils weigh more than others. Visualization: a cup of feathers weighs less than a cup of lead. Some essential oils are heavier and thicker than others that are thin and light.
Essential Oils for Soap Making Chart
| Essential oil | Max% recipe* | Max amount in weight PPO* | Max amount in tsp PPO* | Note | Information | Blends with |
| Amyris Amyris balsamifera | 3% | 0.48oz / 13.6g | 2.75 tsp | Base | West Indian Rosewood has a soft resinous aroma similar to Benzoin. It's used as an alternative to Sandalwood and is useful in helping to 'fix' soap scents | Cedarwood, Geranium, Lavender, Rose, Sandalwood |
| Bergamot Citrus bergamia | 3% | 0.48oz / 13.6g | 3 tsp | Top | Clean and refreshing citrus scent that's used not only in soap making, but also in Earl Grey Tea. One of the few top note essential oils that can be used on its own in soap making. | Citronella, Eucalyptus, Geranium, Neroli, Palmarosa, Ylang Ylang |
| Black Pepper Piper nigrum | 3% | 0.48oz / 13.6g | 3 tsp | Middle to Top | A warm and peppery scent that should be used sparingly. Permitted usage rates are higher than most people will enjoy as a soap scent. Start with just a few drops and blend with another essential oil(s). | Basil, Bergamot, Cedarwood, Clary Sage, Lavender, Peppermint, |
| Cardamom Elettaria cardamomum | 3% | 0.48oz / 13.6g | 3 tsp | Middle | Sweet and spicy essential oil that works best as a blend. Works well with most other oils but especially citrus, spice, and woodsy scents. | Bergamot, Cedarwood, Cinnamon, Orange, Ylang Ylang |
| Cedarwood Cedrus atlantica | 3% | 0.48oz / 13.6g | 3 tsp | Base | Warm and woodsy aroma that blends well with floral, spice, and wood oils. | Bergamot, Frankincense, Juniper, Lavender, Rose, Rosemary |
| Chamomile (Roman) Anthemis nobilis and Chamomile (German/Blue) Matricaria Recutita | 3% | 0.48oz / 13.6g | 3 tsp | Middle | Roman chamomile is sweet and floral and blends well with other floral and citrus oils. You might come across German Chamomile oil too -- it's more expensive and used mainly in leave-on skincare products. | Geranium, May Chang, Neroli, Palmarosa, Rose, Ylang Ylang |
| Clary Sage Salvia sclarea | 2% | 0.32oz / 9.08g | Middle to Top | Deeply earthy and slightly floral scent that does better in blends than on its own. | Cedarwood, Geranium, Lavender, Lime, Sandalwood, Vetiver | |
| Eucalyptus Eucalyptus globulus | 3% | 0.48oz / 13.6g | 3 tsp | Top | Sharp and powerful resinous scent associated with medicinal products. Does well in blends, especially with citrusy oil. | Citronella, Juniper, Lavender, Lemongrass, May Chang, Pine |
| Geranium Pelargonium graveolens | 3% | 0.48oz / 13.6g | 3 tsp | Middle | Floral, earthy, and deep, Rose Geranium is one of the most beloved essential oils. It's often used to replace Rose Absolute as it's less expensive. Use on its own or blended. | Bergamot, Clary Sage, Grapefruit, Lavender, Sandalwood |
| Ginger Zingiber officinalis | 3% | 0.48oz / 13.6g | 3 tsp | Top | Spicy and warming but may smell completely different from fresh ginger. Use in blends with other deep scented oils. | Eucalyptus, Frankincense, Geranium, Rosemary, Vetiver |
| Grapefruit Citrus grandis | 3% | 0.48oz / 13.6g | 3.25 tsp | Top | A fresh and sweet citrus aroma that blends well with floral and citrus essential oils. | Bergamot, Chamomile, Geranium, Lavender, May Chang, Rose |
| Juniper Juniperus communis | 3% | 0.48oz / 13.6g | 3 tsp | Middle | Crisp, sweet, and woodsy aroma that blends well with citrus oils. | Bergamot, Geranium, Lemongrass, Orange, Sandalwood |
| Lavender Lavandula augustifolia | 3% | 0.48oz / 13.6g | 3 tsp | Middle | Long used in the perfume industry, lavender oil is sweet and floral and blends well with many other essential oils. | Basil, Clary Sage, Geranium, Lemon, Patchouli, Rosemary |
| Lemongrass Cymbopogon schoenanthus | 3% | 0.48oz / 13.6g | 3 tsp | Top | Lush and green citrus scent that does well on its own in soap and when blended. | Basil, Black Pepper, Clary Sage, Lavender, Patchouli, Thyme |
| Lemon Citrus limonum | 3% | 0.48oz / 13.6g | 3.25 tsp | Top | Lemon essential oil unfortunately does not last well in soap. If you're trying to use it, try 'fixing' it with the stronger scented May Chang | Chamomile, Eucalyptus, Ginger, Lavender, May Chang |
| Lime Citrus aurantifolia (distilled only) | 3% | 0.48oz / 13.6g | 3.25 tsp | Top | Lime essential oil can be irritating so only use distilled oil when making soap. Like other citrus oils, the scent may not be strong after the first couple of weeks. 'Fix' the scent by using May Chang essential oil. | Basil, Geranium, May Chang, Palmarosa, Ylang Ylang |
| May Chang Litsea cubeba | 3% | 0.48oz / 13.6g | 3 tsp | Top | May Chang, known officially as Litsea cubeba is another top note oil that can be used on its own. It's sweetly citrusy and smells like Lemon Sherbert candy. | Cedarwood, Eucalyptus, Ginger, Grapefruit, Palmarosa |
| Neroli Citrus aurantium | 3% | 0.48oz / 13.6g | 3 tsp | Top, Middle, and Base | Neroli is the floral-honey scent produced by the bitter orange tree. Depending on what it's blended with, it can make up any of the notes in a fragrance. | Geranium, Lavender, Lime, Palmarosa, Rose, Ylang Ylang |
| Nutmeg Myristica fragrans | 0.08% | Middle | Similar to the spice you'd use in cooking but far more fragrant. Woodsy, spicy, and slightly smokey. | Bergamot, cardamom, cedarwood, clary sage, frankincense, lemon, grapefruit, lavender, rosemary, ginger, eucalyptus, sandalwood, orange, ylang ylang | ||
| Palmarosa Cymbopogon martini | 3% | 0.48oz / 13.6g | 3 tsp | Top | Palmarosa is also called Gingergrass and its scent is like a musky grassy rose. | Bergamot, Geranium, Lavender, May Chang, Rose, Sandalwood |
| Patchouli Pogostemon cablin | 3% | 0.48 oz / 13.6g | 2.75 tsp | Base | Though it can be used on its own, Patchouli has broader appeal when it's blended with other oils. It's earthy and dark and very powerful. | Clary Sage, Geranium, Lavender, Lemongrass, Neroli |
| Peppermint Mentha piperita | 2% | 0.32 oz / 9g | 2 tsp | Middle to Top | Sharp and filled with herbal menthol, Peppermint can be used on its own or blended with other herbal essential oils | Lavender, Marjoram, Rosemary, Pine, Spearmint |
| Petitgrain Citrus aurantium | 3% | 0.48 oz / 13.6g | 3 tsp | Middle to Top | Like Neroli and Bergamot, Petitgrain comes from the Bitter Orange tree. It's extracted from the bark and has a woodsy, floral, and slightly bitter scent. Best expressed in a blend. | Cedarwood, Geranium, Lavender, Orange, Palmarosa, Ylang Ylang |
| Rose Absolute / Rose Otto Rosa damascena | 0.2% | Middle to Base | Rose Absolute is overwhelmingly scented of roses. Mainly sold in dilutions, its usage in soaps is restricted due to its Methyl eugenol content. | Clary Sage, Geranium, Lavender, Neroli, Patchouli, Sandalwood | ||
| Rosemary Rosmarinus officinalis | 3% | 0.48 oz / 13.6g | 3 tsp | Middle | Sharp and herbal rosemary blends well with other herbal scents as well as citrus. | Citronella, Geranium, Ginger, Grapefruit, Lime, Tea Tree |
| Rosewood Aniba rosaeodora | 3% | 0.48 oz / 13.6g | 3 tsp | Middle to Top | Spicy, woodsy, and floral, Rosewood is used in blends with other wood and floral scents. | Cedarwood, Frankincense, Geranium, Rose, Rosemary, Sandalwood |
| Sandalwood Santalum album | 3% | 0.48 oz / 13.6g | 2.75 tsp | Base | Soft, warm, and woodsy, Sandalwood is a gorgeous base for many citrus and floral oils. | Frankincense, Geranium, Lavender, Lemon, Palmarosa, Rose, Ylang Ylang |
| Scots Pine Pinus sylvestris | 3% | 0.48 oz / 13.6g | 3 tsp | Middle to Top | Sharp and herbal, Pine blends with other herbal, woodsy, and citrus oils. | Cedarwood, Eucalyptus, Lemongrass, Rosemary, Tea Tree |
| Spearmint Mentha viridis | 3% | 0.48 oz / 13.6g | 3 tsp | Top | Sweet and fresh mint scent without as much natural menthol as Peppermint. Use in blends with other herbal oils. | Basil, Rosemary, Peppermint, Tea Tree, Vetiver |
| Sweet Marjoram Origanum marjorana | 3% | 0.48 oz / 13.6g | 3 tsp | Middle | Scent similar to basil and oregano and can be blended with other herbal, citrus, and floral oils | Bergamot, Chamomile, Rosemary, Vetiver, Ylang Ylang |
| Orange (sweet, bitter, blood) Citrus sinensis or Citrus amara | 3% | 0.48 oz / 13.6g | 3.25 tsp | Top | Like some of the other citrus oils, sweet orange doesn't last well in soaps. Blend with May Chang to 'fix' the scent | Geranium, Juniper, Lavender, May Chang, Neroli, Rosewood |
| Tea Tree Melaleuca alternifolia | 3% | 0.48 oz / 13.6g | 2.75 tsp | Top | Sharp, camphorous, and medicinal scent. I recommend to use it sparingly -- 10-20 drops in a blend for a 1-lb batch is usually more than enough | Citronella, Lavender, Lemon, May Chang, Rosemary |
| Vetiver Vetiveria zizanoides | 3% | 0.48 oz / 13.6g | 2.75 tsp | Base | Green and earthy and related to lemongrass. Blend with floral oils and other deep scents | Clary Sage, Ginger, Lavender, Patchouli, Ylang Ylang |
| Ylang Ylang (Extra I, II, and III) Cananga odorata | 3% | 0.48 oz / 13.6g | 3 tsp | Base | Called the 'Flower of Flowers', this oil is sweet and tropically floral. Use in blends with citrus, floral, and woodsy oils | Grapefruit, Lavender, Rose, Patchouli, Sandalwood |
Max% recipe* — this is the total percentage that this essential oil can be added to any soap recipe.
Max tsp PPO* — this is the maximum amount in teaspoons that this essential oil can be added to a one pound (454g) recipe.
Max PPO* — this is the maximum amount in ounces and grams that this essential oil can be added to a one pound (454g) recipe.
You add essential oils to soap when it hits ‘Trace’
How to add essential oils to soap
You stir essential oils into your soap after it thickens to a light to medium ‘Trace’. This happens after you add the lye-water to your soaping oils and you begin mixing. You can add them earlier but some say that some of the scent doesn’t make it through the process.
A light ‘Trace’ means the soap is the consistency of runny honey, medium is the consistency of custard, and a thick trace is so stiff that it will hold its form. Watch this video to see what Trace looks like.
Tammie Allen says
Hi. Thanks for all the great info. I tried essential oils in my cold process soap and it seized like a brick. Which oils tend to accelerate trace in soap recipes?
Crystal says
Hello,
Where can the mold that says soap be purchased.
lovelygreens says
You can get the molds here.
Filip says
Hey Tanya,
Thanks for the great information. Where did you find all these maximum percentages set by the EU?
I tried looking it up online myself, but I can’t find anything. I found the ‘cosing’ database where you can look up essential oils. This will give you the CAS number and some other limited information, but when it comes to the cosmetic regulation, it just says to look it up in cosmetic regulation 1223/2009. I can’t find any essential oils in that regulation, however. Could you help me out please?
lovelygreens says
Hi Filip, the information on cosmetic production for the EU, including these figures, can be found here. However, exact essential oils are not listed, only their allergens. The figures in this piece have maximum percentages worked out based on the particular allergens in each (such as geraniol, eugenol, coumarin, etc.) that must be controlled in both leave-on and wash-off cosmetic products.
Julie says
This is by far the most comprehensive site I have found for using essential oils. Thank you very much for compiling all this info in one place. I am a new fan!
Rachelle says
Hello, I’m wondering if you knew about using calendula essential oil for soap making.
Thanks for the info :)
lovelygreens says
Hi Rachelle. There isn’t such a thing as calendula essential oil, but you can use calendula-infused carrier oils in soap making. If the variety of calendula is orange, you can harness this color to tint your bars light to bright orange. More on using plants and natural ingredients to color handmade soap is over here.
Carole Button says
Hi Tanya,
Thanks for a really useful & informative site. I recently made some gorgeous smelling soaps, but now they have cured, the fragrances have already faded, so I am concerned that the EOs I bought weren’t as good quality as I had hoped.
Do you have any recommendations on suppliers? Like you, I am based in the UK.
Many thanks,
Carole
lovelygreens says
Hi Carole, some essential oils last longer than others. Many citrus types don’t last very long, and others will naturally fade over time. Still, many of them smell great for months or longer! Which ones did you use and which brand?
Carole Button says
Wow, thank you for your speedy reply! I made Verbena & Sandalwood using Verbena from Mystic Moments & Sandalwood from Aura. I also made a batch with just Sandalwood, and also a Eucalyptus & Peppermint batch, using oils from Anjou. I can’t smell any of those now – I was going to give them as Christmas gifts but because of lockdown I still have them.
I made a Grapefruit & Bergamot a couple of days ago using Anjou oils, hoping they won’t fade as quickly.
I love that table you provide – amazed I didn’t find it sooner TBH!
Luna says
Hi. Thank you for very detailed blog about the essential oils. I’m a beginner so this is important for me to learn and not ruin my skin of my loved ones once i handed them my soap.
My question is, where do you buy your oils? Can you maybe post a link where I can get them and i hope you get some percent off from my purchase! I am not sure if the ones on google are good for the skin.
have a good day and be safe.
lovelygreens says
Hi Luna, I live in Britain and use a lot of Naissance essential oils. Suppliers will be different based on your region though :)
Sandie Gregory says
Hi Tanya
Thank you for your information and passion for product making. Can I please ask this, I want to make a Rose & Geranium salve but I am very confused about the amounts of Rose that I can use. I want to make 50ml pots. Can you please help?
Kind regards
Sandie
lovelygreens says
Hi Sandie, salves are a leave-on product so you cannot use as much essential oil in them as you can in wash-off products, such as soap. I recommend no more than 2% essential oil (by weight) in any leave-on skincare product recipe. That 2% can be completely geranium essential oil, or up to 0.05% rose absolute essential oil.
Camelia says
Hi, I have a question, hope that you can help me.
Does the 3% essential oil (to put in my cold process soap ) includes carrier oil or should I just use pure essential oil that I bought from the store?
Many thanks.
lovelygreens says
It’s just the essential oil when referenced in soap recipes.
George Artingstall says
Thank you for this post, very very useful! I just wanted to ask a question on the ‘fixing’ of citrus scents for CP soaps. I’m new to soap making, I’ve just made a sweet orange and patchouli soap. It smelt great when I made it and for several days after but is now starting to wear off. It says about using may chang to fix the scent in. Could you explain for me, how does this work and would it change the overall scent I was going for by using this extra EO? Thank you :)
lovelygreens says
Hi George, I personally don’t use orange, lemon, or tangerine essential oils in soap for that very reason — they fade quickly. It’s the nature of the essential oil, unfortunately, and even with fixers the scent will never be as great as when you first made it. May chang is a gorgeous citrus essential oil that lasts though, as is bergamot.
Roxie Cheney says
Using Litsea (a Japanese citrus) will hold other citrus scents very nice. I use it all the time with grapefruit, orange, etc. Give it a try.
RC
Mary Barton says
Hello. Thank you for this site. It is very informative! Question…. If I do a soap, say spearmint eucalyptus, and both are 3 t for a pound of soap…..if I do 2 pound soap recipes, can I just use 3 t of one and 3t of the other oil and call it a day??
lovelygreens says
Yes, that’s perfect :)
Kimberly Deavers says
Hi! I haven’t been able to find anything online that can answer this question and your blog is the closest I’ve gotten. If I add essential oils or colorants to a soap recipe do I need to adjust the oils and the lye to account for it or can I just add them in?
lovelygreens says
Essential oils and colorants are not considered in the formulation of base soap recipes — they’re just extras. So no, the oils and lye amount don’t need adjusting. The amount of essential oil you use is based on how much is safe for your skin and that can vary based on the essential oil.
Gaelle says
Hell,
I’ve just discovered your website and it is super helpful! thank you soo much for all those info!
I have been looking for few days now but can’t find anything: is there a calculator, or a website that indicates the quantity of each EO that is advised to use together?
for example, if I want to make a cold process soap with lemongrass and rosemary EO, is there any tool to tell/advice me what is the best combination in %?
I found calculator that give me the total amount of EO to use according to the amount of oil, but can’t find anything regarding how each EO is to be calculated separately..
or maybe there is a website/list with the most known combinations of EO and their %?
Also, can you please explain step by step how to use the toothpick test? I’m not sure to understand properly if I should dip one end in all EO I want to use or each end in separate EO then place all toothpicks in the sealed bag, even though the last option makes more sense..
lovelygreens says
As far as I’m aware, there’s no essential oil calculator like that. It would be handy though! You have to work it out manually until that time.
Toothpick test: use a separate toothpick for each ‘part’ of essential oil. For example, if your blend would be two parts lavender and one part rosemary, you’d have two toothpicks of lavender and one of rosemary.
Stacia Evans says
Do the amount of percentage change if you are using more than one Essential Oil?
lovelygreens says
Stick to the guide of 3% total essential oil in soap recipes. That includes blends too. Keep in mind that some essential oils have lower usage rates.
Lynne says
Thanks for this really helpful article – my brain was fried before reading it!
I have settled on a blend of 3 Eos for a cp soap batch of the following:
Rose Maroc absolute
Neroli
Patchouli
Using your suggestion of 30, 60, 10% it brings the Rose to 0.09% which is too high. How could I rectify this? By lowering the percentage of the top note and adding to middle/base notes? Diluting the top note between rose and AN Other EO?
I love the blend I’ve put together so I’d rather not add another EO to the mix!
Thank you so much for your help; it’s very much appreciated.
lovelygreens says
The percentages are just a guideline rather than law — if you like your blend, run with it :)
Lib says
Good morning….. I was thinking about using a ‘fixer’ like arrowroot to help keep the smell of the essential oils from fading I haven’t found where in the process in soap making to add the fixer? Thanks so much and I’ve read your articles for soap making for beginners and they’re great
lovelygreens says
Mix it with a little water and add at trace.
Piotr says
Hi! First of all, thank you very much for all the instructions – fantastic job!
And before I will make my first soap I have a question. You commented the lemongrass oil as follow: Lush and green citrus scent that does well on its own in soap and when blended. Also, the lemongrass is recommended as the top oil, not the middle. But on your video on the Youtube about lemongrass soap (great!) you listed lemongrass oil as the basic one. Is it correct?
lovelygreens says
Citrus essential oils are generally top notes — these are scents that you smell right away in a blend. Lemongrass can be used on its own in a soap recipe or blended with other essential oils though.
Nakelya says
So you dont have to dilute essential oils when making cold press or melt and pour soaps? Im new to soap making and trying to do my research before trying my first batch.
lovelygreens says
Just adding them to the soap mix is diluting them. The point about dilution is that you should (almost) never use essential oils directly on the skin.
Bushra says
Can you explain about top notes, middle notes and base notes.
I am a beginner and have no idea.
Fiona says
Hi, is there a reason you don’t list thyme essential oil? I just used it today and it caused almost immediate ricing! Is this why it’s not on your list? Are there any others to avoid from your experience?
Many Thanks
lovelygreens says
Thyme is an essential oil that you need to be very cautious with. At the maximum usage rate of 0.5-1% in soap it can still cause skin irritation and the scent might not even come through. It naturally contains high levels of Thymol, and some types also contain Geraniol, both of which are known skin allergens.
Dhanushka says
This is actually good. But I want to get more information.
Patrizia says
Hi, thank you for the information about using essential oils in cold press soap.
My question is are all essential oils made equal? If not do the quantities change with quality of essential oil? Thank you
lovelygreens says
Not all essential oils are equal but the amount specified in this piece are standard for the type. Better quality essential oils are made from higher quality plant material and better processing methods.
Sarah Gladden says
Thank you for sharing this chart and explaining the process. I am a candle maker by trade and now dipping my toes into cold process soap. I have looked at fragrance calculators online (US ones) and from my experience of candle making I know not to necessarily follow what makers do in other countries. The calculators I have come across seem to base the amount of essential oil (or fragrance oil) on the weight of the oils in the soap and not the total weight for the soap batter. My question is, do I calculate the 3% from the weight of the oils, or the total batter weight (including the lye/water weight.) Many thanks!
lovelygreens says
It should be calculated as the percentage of all the ingredients in the recipe except the water. Most of the water evaporates out of your soap after you make it but before you use it.
Sarah Gladden says
Many thanks! That makes perfect sense.
liz says
hi – i am hoping you can help me – i am starting to make some blends for my cp soaps – i have a mix that has nutmeg essential oil in it but i cannot for the life of me find the safe % of nutmeg to use – is there somewhere you can advise me to look
thanks
liz
lovelygreens says
In the EU you may use Nutmeg essential oil in up to 0.08% by weight in handmade soap made for retail. Providing you have the proper cosmetic assessments, cosmetic insurance, and have submitted the product to the EU cosmetic database. I generally use the EU guidelines for all my handmade soap, regardless of whether they are destined to be sold or not.
Andrea Rodriguez says
This was very helpful. Thanks for it!
ena says
Thank you for this very useful and informative article.
Question, if you use photosensitive oils (i.e. bergamot, lemon, citrus oils) as ingredients in soap or facial wash, etc… does the rule on non-exposure to direct sunlight after use apply? Or does this only apply to roller blends?
lovelygreens says
It’s not the same as in leave-on products. Unless you have VERY sensitive skin, ou’re perfectly fine to go out in the sun after using a soap made with citrus oils. Most of it washes off in the bath or shower.
Nicolas says
What about prcentage of essential oils dor children 7 and up and 4 years to 7 years? All base on soap weight?
lovelygreens says
I’d say the standard amounts are fine for kids but choose essential oils that are more sensitive. Lavender for one. It might actually be better to make unscented soap for kids though anyway.
Justin Snodgrass says
Many thanks for the info! Very helpful.
Granny js Handmade Soap says
Thanks for sharing such a important information. This is really useful and helps a lot. I want to say Thank You again.
Bing says
Thank you for this informative article.
In my experience, some essential oil scents are difficult to maintain in soap especially citrus oils. Do you prefer to CP or HP your soaps and do you add clays to help fix them?
Thanks
lovelygreens says
There are a few things that can help fix the scent of essential oils — clays, orris root powder, and even oatmeal pieces in my experience. Some essential oils are more tricky though — lemon, orange, and tangerine can fade quickly. I don’t tend to use them in cold-process soap unless they’re fixed with another essential oil like Litsea cubeba. Even then, they do fade a bit.
Ralph Brunjes says
Hi,
I have never made soap before and am wondering how do you go about getting your soaps seen by a chemist and what sort of charges would they be .
Many thanks and a wonderfull website on the many different things you do.
Ralph
lovelygreens says
The way it works in the UK is that you send your recipes to a chemist who offers the service. They look over them and certify that they’re safe and within regulations. After that, you’re able to get insurance and to legally sell your handmade soap (and other bath/cosmetic products) to the public. Legally you cannot sell soap or personal care products to anyone in the UK and European Union without a Cosmetic Safety Assessment by a EU certified chemist.
Jayalatha says
Hi Sarah ,
I am having little confusion in soap making if I want to try some essential oil blends in soap making ,for example lye,water, coconut and olive oil all together if I trace and weight for small batch 100 gm to test the essential blends how much I should measure it , in drops or tsp or in gram ,plz guide me and also natural clay how much I should add for 100 gram I can multiply for big batches. Past 1 year l am learning and reading kindle books and watching YouTube still little clarification needed.
Sorry for to big text
Thanks
Jaya
lovelygreens says
Hi Jaya — Tanya here (no Sarah :). When calculating a recipe technically, you should always measure by weight, not volume. However, it’s easier to measure out essential oils in teaspoons and Tablespoons while making soap. If you want to make a perfect 3% essential oil recipe, pre-measure the oils on a micro-scale and then afterwards measure the volume amount. Different essential oils will have a different volume measurement for the same weight.
Trystan Mentzer says
Would the amounts be the same when using a melt and pour soap base?
lovelygreens says
Good question! Yes is the answer
Miyun says
Hi Helen. Thank you for the info. But which EU law are you applying? (‘The EU considers an essential oil usage rate of 3% or less to be safe in wash-off products like soap’). I am looking at the EU regulation at the moment and couldn’t find it. Would you mind share the link with us? I used more than 3% EO on my soap.
lovelygreens says
Who’s Helen? As for the 3% rule that’s regulated by the chemists who create safety assessments. You cannot legally sell handmade soap to customers in the EU without having your recipes certified by a chemist. This 3% rule comes from my own chemist.
Miyun says
Hi Tanya. Sorry about that I got your name wrong. I need more help here. Where can I find the regulation saying that ”we are not allowed to sell soaps without having a chemist certification” under EU laws? So are you saying that all the handmade soaps in the market without chemist certification is illegal?
lovelygreens says
Yes and if anything happens, your insurance would not cover you. All the legal jargon is in EU Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products
Emily Webster says
It is really shocking that so many people are unaware of the law. As well as having to get each and every recipe safety assessed, you also have to use “stamped for trade” scales to check the weight of your end product. Kitchen scales, however accurate, just won’t do. It’s an expensive business getting started, that’s for sure, even more so if you want a variety of different products in your range, as each must be separately assessed. There are also strict laws about labelling and declaring ingredients. Try the Guild of Craft Soap and Toiletry Makers for more advice.
Cheri says
So if you only use two essential oils like cedarwood and vanilla what would the percent be ? I’ve been told vanilla is a very strong scent is that true. should I use less vanilla. Any thoughts. I like the tooth pick idea. Thanks Cheri
lovelygreens says
Vanilla is a fragrance oil rather than an essential oil. As for mixing, the top, middle, and base ratios are a guide but not a rule. Use the toothpick method to create a blend that you and others like and then go for it :)
Sarah says
Hello.
I love your site. It is wonderful. I am trying to mix my own essential oils. Can I mix just two flavours? Or must it be top, middle and base?
lovelygreens says
When it comes to mixing your own oils, it’s completely up to you! The top, middle, and base recommendations are purely a guide. There are many middle-top and middle-base blends that work well.
Kate Sandles says
Hi, first of all let me just say thanks! I love your website and all the info you provide.😊. I have been following recipes at the moment to make soap, but I’m finding that the sent from the essential oils I am adding don’t seem to last through the curing process. You mentioned adding clays and/or orris root powder. Any more info on this, e.g.. when to add and what quantities?
Thanks
Wendy Moir says
Hi Tanya,
Can rosewood be used in CP soap making?
If so what can it be mixed with and what % can be used please?
Many thanks
Wendy
Becky says
I just came across your website and new to soap making, this list has really helped me out with my blends but I wanted to make a soap with Pink Grapefruit, Lavander, Rosemary and sweet orange. 2 of theses EO are top notes and 2 of these EO are middle notes. How would I work out the 100% total? Would i devide the 2 top notes and devide the 2 middle notes
15% Grapefruit 0.24 =0.8
15% Sweet Orange 0.24 =0.8
30% Rosemary 0.24 = 0.24.5
30% Lavender 0.24= 0.24.5
I have probably done this all wrong. Please could you give me some advice. Also are these percentages based on grams? Example 30% lavander is 0.24= 0.24.5 grams or Oz. Sorry confused maybe a soap recipe of yours would be ideal as an example .
lovelygreens says
Hi Becky! Have you ever tried the toothpick test before? It’s a way of testing an essential oil blend before making an entire batch of soap. In your case, get five toothpicks. Each toothpick has two ends which you’ll dip into essential oil and then place in a sealed bag. Seal it up and then in a minute or so, have a smell to see if you like the blend. If you don’t like it, try again.
As for making up the last 10% of your recipe, it’s completely up to you. You can choose a base note like cedar or ginger, or bulk up your middle note essential oils to cover the difference.
Leen says
Thank you for posting this information! I’ve been trying to find something like this forever and i’m glad I stumbled across it over on Pinterest! I’m going to tuck this info away for the next soap making day!!
lovelygreens says
You’re welcome Leen and happy soap making :)
JQ says
‘m a little confused. If I used three different essential oils in one pound of soap, the combined EO should not exceed 3% of 16oz or each EO should not exceed 3%?
Also, the note chart doesn’t equal 100%, so that’s confusing to me too?
30% of a blend should be Top Notes
80% of a blend should be Middle Notes
10% of a blend should be Base Note
Thanks
lovelygreens says
Hope this helps: 3% of 16oz is 0.48oz — that’s the total amount in weight of essential oils you’d use in this particular recipe.
30% of 0.48oz = 0.14
60% of 0.48oz = 0.29
10% of 0.48oz = 0.05
JQ says
I refer to this page allot. Thank you so much for writing this article.
Alex says
This is just what I was looking for thanks for the breakdown x
Shannon says
Further to this, I would like to clarify. My mold makes 3 lbs of soap. Hence the total amount of melt and pour soap base would be 48oz . 3% of 48 oz is 1.44
Using the example above
30% of 1.44 oz= 0.43oz
60% of 1.44oz= 0.86Oz
10% of 1.44oz = 0.14oz
Would I convert ounces to teaspoons or drops for measuring the essential oils ?
Do I need to dilute the essential oil blend in a carrier oil like sweet almond oil before adding to the melt and pour base?
Also would I add this blend evenly to each layer of soap or it doesn’t matter?
lovelygreens says
I’d stick with the weights at first. If you want to use teaspoons for subsequent batches, work out how many teaspoons equate to those particular weights when you make the first batch.
No need to dilute essential oils in carrier oils before adding to soap. Carrier oils are meant to dilute essential oils before you put them directly on your skin (think massage oils).
The essential oil should ideally be consistent right through your soap.
Angel Allen says
Hello! I just discovered your site and love it!!! I am brand new at this soap making craft and am very excited! The Essential Oil for Soap Making Chart is great, is there a way to print this chart? I tried to simply copy and paste, but it did not work.
I appreciate your information and time that you have put in for this site. I look forward to hearing from you.
lovelygreens says
Hi Angel and happy to welcome a beginner soap maker :) I don’t yet have a printable version of this chart but I’ll look into creating one. Stay tuned!
Liydmila says
Hi Tanya/ I am Lyuda/ I would like ask about essential oils for soap. I saw in your video a big bottle of them/ What is the oils and where i can buy them/ . I have read a lot about them and i saw a very expensive and less what you advice about them/ Thank you
Arian says
You are an angel! Thank you so much for the specificity of your directions as well as sharing helpful hints. As someone who has scoured the internet and books for clear direction, it has to be said, you are the Harvard of teachers in soaping. Bless you!
lovelygreens says
You’re so welcome Arian — happy soaping!
Lana says
Hi Tanya, thank you for this valuable lesson on essential oil percentages. I’m new to soap making and I always wonder should I let me soap gel or not!!!! which method is better??? please help :)
lovelygreens says
To Gel just means to intensify the color and make the soap a shinier, less opaque tone. If you don’t gel it will be opaque and much more toned down in shade. Both can be beautiful!
Helen says
Thanks for your extensive post today. I have to admire your beautiful soap colours. I am a soapmaker, and have tried several methods to get those bright clear colours. Including infusions, adding color straight to lye water and using the whitest oils possible. Any suggestions?
lovelygreens says
Hi Helen! The method for using each natural colour is different and variations will occur based on how much you use, temperature, introduction method, introduction sequence, whether the soap gels or not, colour of oils, colour of essential oils or fragrance oils, and quality of the substance used. It’s all about trial and error to get the right shade.