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Essential Oils for Soap Making + how much to use in a batch
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January 24, 2018 · 86 Comments

Essential Oils for Soap Making + how much to use in a batch

Beauty· Soap

Detailed information on using essential oils for soap making. Includes max usage rates and how many teaspoons of essential oil can be used in a soap recipe.

If you want to naturally scent handmade soap, you need to use essential oils. These highly scented flower and plant essences are natural but in such high concentrations that you need to be careful with them. If you use too much you’ll not only waste money but your soaps could cause skin irritation.

There’s some confusion as to which essential oils can be used in soap making and how much of each you can use. I’ve listed some of the more common essential oils below along with how much of each can be used in a batch of soap. The information includes maximum percentage in a recipe, maximum amount in ounce and grams, and also how much in teaspoons can be used in a one pound batch of soap.

Natural Soap Making for Beginners Series

If you’re new to making your own soap have a read through this free four-part series from Lovely Greens. It includes all the basic information you need for natural soap making.

  1. Ingredients
  2. Equipment & Safety
  3. Beginner Soap Recipes
  4. The Soap Making Process

How much essential oil can be used?

It’s tricky to answer just how much essential oil can be used in soap recipes. I’ve seen different recommendations but base my own soap recipes on what the stricter European Union outlines. Just remember that just because essential oils are ‘natural’ does not mean that they are always safe. Using too much in soap can cause all kinds of issues including skin irritation and photo sensitivity. You can’t be too careful if you’re making natural soaps to give to loved ones or the public.

All the naturally scented soaps I make through Lovely Greens Handmade use less essential oil than outlined below. In my opinion, there is no need to exceed the maximum usage rates set by the European Union.

Essential Oils for Soap Making + how much to use in a batch #lovelygreens #soaprecipe #soapmakingEssential Oils for Soap Making + how much to use in a batch #lovelygreens #soaprecipe #soapmaking
Essential Oils for Soap Making + how much to use in a batch #lovelygreens #soapmaking #soaprecipe

Essential oils can scent soap with a fragrant range of floral, herbal, woodsy, and spicy scents

Calculating how much essential oil to use in soap

I spent quite a lot of time calculating teaspoon amounts for the essential oils in the chart. They are based by calculating first calculating the maximum amount of essential oil in grams that can be added to one pound soap batches. Please note that some essential oils have lower rates than others. Then using the specific density of an essential oil I calculate how much you can use in tsp. Most people like to use teaspoons to measure essential oils but I’ve also listed weight for convenience.

For example, in a 1lb (454g) batch of soap you can use a maximum of 3% lavender essential oil (Lavandula angustifolia flower oil). The specific gravity of this oil is 0.905g/ml.

  • 3% of 454g is 13.62g — this is the total amount of lavender essential oil by weight that you can use in the recipe
  • 0.905g/ml describes how much lavender oil weights by volume. Dividing 13.62g by this number will give you how many ml of lavender oil you can use in the recipe. In this case, 15.05ml.
  • 15.05ml is about 3 tsp (3.12 tsp to be exact)

Creating an Essential Oil Blend

The last column of the chart gives essential oil blend recommendations. Creating blends can be a complex (yet fun!) business but the main idea is:

  • 30% of a blend should be Top Notes
  • 60% of a blend should be Middle Notes
  • 10% of a blend should be Base Notes

Please also keep in mind that the total amount of essential oils in ounces or grams should not exceed 3% of the soap recipe. Some essential oils should not exceed 1% or 2% of the total recipe so please be careful.

Lovely Greens Guide to Natural Soapmaking
Essential Oils for Soap Making + how much to use in a batch #lovelygreens #soapmaking #soaprecipe

Handmade soap with pink clay for natural color and a blend of floral essential oils. See the recipe here

Essential oils for Soap Making

The EU considers an essential oil usage rate of 3% or less to be safe in wash-off products like soap. For clarification, that 3% of the total amount of soaping oils in a soap recipe by weight. 3% of a one pound batch of soap is a total of 0.48 ounces or 13.6g.

This chart includes many of the most commonly used essential oils for soap making but there are others too. Before using any essential oil, please do research on how much can be safely be used in soap.

The amounts in teaspoons listed are rounded down to the nearest 1/4 teaspoon. You’ll also notice that the teaspoon amounts will differ between essential oils even if the oz/grams are the same. That’s because some of the oils weigh more than others. Visualization: a cup of feathers weighs less than a cup of lead. Some essential oils are heavier and thicker than others that are thin and light.

Essential Oils for Soap Making Chart

Essential oilMax% recipe*Max amount in weight PPO*Max amount in tsp PPO*NoteInformationBlends with
Amyris Amyris balsamifera3%0.48oz / 13.6g2.75 tspBaseWest Indian Rosewood has a soft resinous aroma similar to Benzoin. It's used as an alternative to Sandalwood and is useful in helping to 'fix' soap scentsCedarwood, Geranium, Lavender, Rose, Sandalwood
Bergamot Citrus bergamia3%0.48oz / 13.6g3 tspTopClean and refreshing citrus scent that's used not only in soap making, but also in Earl Grey Tea. One of the few top note essential oils that can be used on its own in soap making.Citronella, Eucalyptus, Geranium, Neroli, Palmarosa, Ylang Ylang
Black Pepper
Piper nigrum
3%0.48oz / 13.6g3 tspMiddle to Top A warm and peppery scent that should be used sparingly. Permitted usage rates are higher than most people will enjoy as a soap scent. Start with just a few drops and blend with another essential oil(s).Basil, Bergamot, Cedarwood, Clary Sage, Lavender, Peppermint,
Cardamom Elettaria cardamomum3%0.48oz / 13.6g3 tspMiddleSweet and spicy essential oil that works best as a blend. Works well with most other oils but especially citrus, spice, and woodsy scents. Bergamot, Cedarwood, Cinnamon, Orange, Ylang Ylang
Cedarwood Cedrus atlantica3%0.48oz / 13.6g3 tspBaseWarm and woodsy aroma that blends well with floral, spice, and wood oils.Bergamot, Frankincense, Juniper, Lavender, Rose, Rosemary
Chamomile (Roman) Anthemis nobilis and Chamomile (German/Blue) Matricaria Recutita3%0.48oz / 13.6g3 tspMiddleRoman chamomile is sweet and floral and blends well with other floral and citrus oils. You might come across German Chamomile oil too -- it's more expensive and used mainly in leave-on skincare products.Geranium, May Chang, Neroli, Palmarosa, Rose, Ylang Ylang
Clary Sage Salvia sclarea2%0.32oz / 9.08gMiddle to TopDeeply earthy and slightly floral scent that does better in blends than on its own.Cedarwood, Geranium, Lavender, Lime, Sandalwood, Vetiver
Eucalyptus Eucalyptus globulus3%0.48oz / 13.6g3 tspTopSharp and powerful resinous scent associated with medicinal products. Does well in blends, especially with citrusy oil.Citronella, Juniper, Lavender, Lemongrass, May Chang, Pine
Geranium Pelargonium graveolens3%0.48oz / 13.6g3 tspMiddleFloral, earthy, and deep, Rose Geranium is one of the most beloved essential oils. It's often used to replace Rose Absolute as it's less expensive. Use on its own or blended.Bergamot, Clary Sage, Grapefruit, Lavender, Sandalwood
Ginger Zingiber officinalis3%0.48oz / 13.6g3 tspTopSpicy and warming but may smell completely different from fresh ginger. Use in blends with other deep scented oils.Eucalyptus, Frankincense, Geranium, Rosemary, Vetiver
Grapefruit Citrus grandis3%0.48oz / 13.6g3.25 tspTopA fresh and sweet citrus aroma that blends well with floral and citrus essential oils.Bergamot, Chamomile, Geranium, Lavender, May Chang, Rose
Juniper Juniperus communis3%0.48oz / 13.6g3 tspMiddleCrisp, sweet, and woodsy aroma that blends well with citrus oils.Bergamot, Geranium, Lemongrass, Orange, Sandalwood
Lavender Lavandula augustifolia3%0.48oz / 13.6g3 tspMiddleLong used in the perfume industry, lavender oil is sweet and floral and blends well with many other essential oils.Basil, Clary Sage, Geranium, Lemon, Patchouli, Rosemary
Lemongrass Cymbopogon schoenanthus3%0.48oz / 13.6g3 tspTopLush and green citrus scent that does well on its own in soap and when blended.Basil, Black Pepper, Clary Sage, Lavender, Patchouli, Thyme
Lemon Citrus limonum3%0.48oz / 13.6g3.25 tspTopLemon essential oil unfortunately does not last well in soap. If you're trying to use it, try 'fixing' it with the stronger scented May ChangChamomile, Eucalyptus, Ginger, Lavender, May Chang
Lime Citrus aurantifolia (distilled only)3%0.48oz / 13.6g3.25 tspTopLime essential oil can be irritating so only use distilled oil when making soap. Like other citrus oils, the scent may not be strong after the first couple of weeks. 'Fix' the scent by using May Chang essential oil. Basil, Geranium, May Chang, Palmarosa, Ylang Ylang
May Chang Litsea cubeba3%0.48oz / 13.6g3 tspTopMay Chang, known officially as Litsea cubeba is another top note oil that can be used on its own. It's sweetly citrusy and smells like Lemon Sherbert candy.Cedarwood, Eucalyptus, Ginger, Grapefruit, Palmarosa
Neroli Citrus aurantium3%0.48oz / 13.6g3 tspTop, Middle, and BaseNeroli is the floral-honey scent produced by the bitter orange tree. Depending on what it's blended with, it can make up any of the notes in a fragrance.Geranium, Lavender, Lime, Palmarosa, Rose, Ylang Ylang
Nutmeg Myristica fragrans 0.08%MiddleSimilar to the spice you'd use in cooking but far more fragrant. Woodsy, spicy, and slightly smokey. Bergamot, cardamom, cedarwood, clary sage, frankincense, lemon, grapefruit, lavender, rosemary, ginger, eucalyptus, sandalwood, orange, ylang ylang
Palmarosa Cymbopogon martini3%0.48oz / 13.6g3 tspTopPalmarosa is also called Gingergrass and its scent is like a musky grassy rose.Bergamot, Geranium, Lavender, May Chang, Rose, Sandalwood
Patchouli Pogostemon cablin3%0.48 oz / 13.6g2.75 tspBaseThough it can be used on its own, Patchouli has broader appeal when it's blended with other oils. It's earthy and dark and very powerful.Clary Sage, Geranium, Lavender, Lemongrass, Neroli
Peppermint Mentha piperita2%0.32 oz / 9g2 tspMiddle to TopSharp and filled with herbal menthol, Peppermint can be used on its own or blended with other herbal essential oilsLavender, Marjoram, Rosemary, Pine, Spearmint
Petitgrain Citrus aurantium3%0.48 oz / 13.6g3 tspMiddle to TopLike Neroli and Bergamot, Petitgrain comes from the Bitter Orange tree. It's extracted from the bark and has a woodsy, floral, and slightly bitter scent. Best expressed in a blend.Cedarwood, Geranium, Lavender, Orange, Palmarosa, Ylang Ylang
Rose Absolute / Rose Otto Rosa damascena0.2%Middle to BaseRose Absolute is overwhelmingly scented of roses. Mainly sold in dilutions, its usage in soaps is restricted due to its Methyl eugenol content.Clary Sage, Geranium, Lavender, Neroli, Patchouli, Sandalwood
Rosemary Rosmarinus officinalis3%0.48 oz / 13.6g3 tspMiddleSharp and herbal rosemary blends well with other herbal scents as well as citrus.Citronella, Geranium, Ginger, Grapefruit, Lime, Tea Tree
Rosewood Aniba rosaeodora3%0.48 oz / 13.6g3 tspMiddle to TopSpicy, woodsy, and floral, Rosewood is used in blends with other wood and floral scents.Cedarwood, Frankincense, Geranium, Rose, Rosemary, Sandalwood
Sandalwood Santalum album3%0.48 oz / 13.6g2.75 tspBaseSoft, warm, and woodsy, Sandalwood is a gorgeous base for many citrus and floral oils.Frankincense, Geranium, Lavender, Lemon, Palmarosa, Rose, Ylang Ylang
Scots Pine Pinus sylvestris3%0.48 oz / 13.6g3 tspMiddle to TopSharp and herbal, Pine blends with other herbal, woodsy, and citrus oils.Cedarwood, Eucalyptus, Lemongrass, Rosemary, Tea Tree
Spearmint Mentha viridis3%0.48 oz / 13.6g3 tspTopSweet and fresh mint scent without as much natural menthol as Peppermint. Use in blends with other herbal oils.Basil, Rosemary, Peppermint, Tea Tree, Vetiver
Sweet Marjoram Origanum marjorana3%0.48 oz / 13.6g3 tspMiddleScent similar to basil and oregano and can be blended with other herbal, citrus, and floral oilsBergamot, Chamomile, Rosemary, Vetiver, Ylang Ylang
Orange (sweet, bitter, blood) Citrus sinensis or Citrus amara3%0.48 oz / 13.6g3.25 tspTopLike some of the other citrus oils, sweet orange doesn't last well in soaps. Blend with May Chang to 'fix' the scentGeranium, Juniper, Lavender, May Chang, Neroli, Rosewood
Tea Tree Melaleuca alternifolia3%0.48 oz / 13.6g2.75 tspTopSharp, camphorous, and medicinal scent. I recommend to use it sparingly -- 10-20 drops in a blend for a 1-lb batch is usually more than enough Citronella, Lavender, Lemon, May Chang, Rosemary
Vetiver Vetiveria zizanoides3%0.48 oz / 13.6g2.75 tspBaseGreen and earthy and related to lemongrass. Blend with floral oils and other deep scentsClary Sage, Ginger, Lavender, Patchouli, Ylang Ylang
Ylang Ylang (Extra I, II, and III) Cananga odorata3%0.48 oz / 13.6g3 tspBaseCalled the 'Flower of Flowers', this oil is sweet and tropically floral. Use in blends with citrus, floral, and woodsy oilsGrapefruit, Lavender, Rose, Patchouli, Sandalwood

Max% recipe* — this is the total percentage that this essential oil can be added to any soap recipe.
Max tsp PPO* — this is the maximum amount in teaspoons that this essential oil can be added to a one pound (454g) recipe.
Max PPO* — this is the maximum amount in ounces and grams that this essential oil can be added to a one pound (454g) recipe.

Essential Oils for Soap Making + how much to use in a batch #lovelygreens #soapmaking #soaprecipe

You add essential oils to soap when it hits ‘Trace’

How to add essential oils to soap

You stir essential oils into your soap after it thickens to a light to medium ‘Trace’. This happens after you add the lye-water to your soaping oils and you begin mixing. You can add them earlier but some say that some of the scent doesn’t make it through the process.

A light ‘Trace’ means the soap is the consistency of runny honey, medium is the consistency of custard, and a thick trace is so stiff that it will hold its form. Watch this video to see what Trace looks like.

You might also like

  • How to Naturally Color Handmade SoapHow to Naturally Color Handmade Soap
  • Part 1: Natural Soapmaking for Beginners – IngredientsPart 1: Natural Soapmaking for Beginners – Ingredients
  • Natural Soap Making for Beginners: Basic Soap Recipes & Creating Your OwnNatural Soap Making for Beginners: Basic Soap Recipes & Creating Your Own
  • Part 4: Natural Soapmaking for Beginners – Make, Mould, and CurePart 4: Natural Soapmaking for Beginners – Make, Mould, and Cure
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Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Rachelle says

    January 17, 2021 at 10:20 pm

    Hello, I’m wondering if you knew about using calendula essential oil for soap making.

    Thanks for the info 🙂

    Reply
    • lovelygreens says

      January 18, 2021 at 11:02 am

      Hi Rachelle. There isn’t such a thing as calendula essential oil, but you can use calendula-infused carrier oils in soap making. If the variety of calendula is orange, you can harness this color to tint your bars light to bright orange. More on using plants and natural ingredients to color handmade soap is over here.

      Reply
  2. Carole Button says

    January 5, 2021 at 2:23 pm

    Hi Tanya,
    Thanks for a really useful & informative site. I recently made some gorgeous smelling soaps, but now they have cured, the fragrances have already faded, so I am concerned that the EOs I bought weren’t as good quality as I had hoped.
    Do you have any recommendations on suppliers? Like you, I am based in the UK.
    Many thanks,
    Carole

    Reply
    • lovelygreens says

      January 5, 2021 at 2:45 pm

      Hi Carole, some essential oils last longer than others. Many citrus types don’t last very long, and others will naturally fade over time. Still, many of them smell great for months or longer! Which ones did you use and which brand?

      Reply
      • Carole Button says

        January 5, 2021 at 11:33 pm

        Wow, thank you for your speedy reply! I made Verbena & Sandalwood using Verbena from Mystic Moments & Sandalwood from Aura. I also made a batch with just Sandalwood, and also a Eucalyptus & Peppermint batch, using oils from Anjou. I can’t smell any of those now – I was going to give them as Christmas gifts but because of lockdown I still have them.
        I made a Grapefruit & Bergamot a couple of days ago using Anjou oils, hoping they won’t fade as quickly.
        I love that table you provide – amazed I didn’t find it sooner TBH!

        Reply
  3. Luna says

    December 20, 2020 at 11:02 am

    Hi. Thank you for very detailed blog about the essential oils. I’m a beginner so this is important for me to learn and not ruin my skin of my loved ones once i handed them my soap.
    My question is, where do you buy your oils? Can you maybe post a link where I can get them and i hope you get some percent off from my purchase! I am not sure if the ones on google are good for the skin.
    have a good day and be safe.

    Reply
    • lovelygreens says

      December 22, 2020 at 5:26 pm

      Hi Luna, I live in Britain and use a lot of Naissance essential oils. Suppliers will be different based on your region though 🙂

      Reply
  4. Sandie Gregory says

    December 15, 2020 at 5:47 pm

    Hi Tanya
    Thank you for your information and passion for product making. Can I please ask this, I want to make a Rose & Geranium salve but I am very confused about the amounts of Rose that I can use. I want to make 50ml pots. Can you please help?
    Kind regards
    Sandie

    Reply
    • lovelygreens says

      December 22, 2020 at 5:40 pm

      Hi Sandie, salves are a leave-on product so you cannot use as much essential oil in them as you can in wash-off products, such as soap. I recommend no more than 2% essential oil (by weight) in any leave-on skincare product recipe. That 2% can be completely geranium essential oil, or up to 0.05% rose absolute essential oil.

      Reply
  5. Camelia says

    June 16, 2020 at 5:10 pm

    Hi, I have a question, hope that you can help me.
    Does the 3% essential oil (to put in my cold process soap ) includes carrier oil or should I just use pure essential oil that I bought from the store?

    Many thanks.

    Reply
    • lovelygreens says

      July 10, 2020 at 5:16 pm

      It’s just the essential oil when referenced in soap recipes.

      Reply
  6. George Artingstall says

    June 6, 2020 at 9:26 pm

    Thank you for this post, very very useful! I just wanted to ask a question on the ‘fixing’ of citrus scents for CP soaps. I’m new to soap making, I’ve just made a sweet orange and patchouli soap. It smelt great when I made it and for several days after but is now starting to wear off. It says about using may chang to fix the scent in. Could you explain for me, how does this work and would it change the overall scent I was going for by using this extra EO? Thank you 🙂

    Reply
    • lovelygreens says

      June 8, 2020 at 1:32 pm

      Hi George, I personally don’t use orange, lemon, or tangerine essential oils in soap for that very reason — they fade quickly. It’s the nature of the essential oil, unfortunately, and even with fixers the scent will never be as great as when you first made it. May chang is a gorgeous citrus essential oil that lasts though, as is bergamot.

      Reply
      • Roxie Cheney says

        September 19, 2020 at 10:36 pm

        Using Litsea (a Japanese citrus) will hold other citrus scents very nice. I use it all the time with grapefruit, orange, etc. Give it a try.
        RC

        Reply
  7. Mary Barton says

    April 17, 2020 at 2:52 am

    Hello. Thank you for this site. It is very informative! Question…. If I do a soap, say spearmint eucalyptus, and both are 3 t for a pound of soap…..if I do 2 pound soap recipes, can I just use 3 t of one and 3t of the other oil and call it a day??

    Reply
    • lovelygreens says

      April 19, 2020 at 7:59 am

      Yes, that’s perfect 🙂

      Reply
      • Kimberly Deavers says

        November 10, 2020 at 10:24 pm

        Hi! I haven’t been able to find anything online that can answer this question and your blog is the closest I’ve gotten. If I add essential oils or colorants to a soap recipe do I need to adjust the oils and the lye to account for it or can I just add them in?

        Reply
        • lovelygreens says

          November 13, 2020 at 1:37 pm

          Essential oils and colorants are not considered in the formulation of base soap recipes — they’re just extras. So no, the oils and lye amount don’t need adjusting. The amount of essential oil you use is based on how much is safe for your skin and that can vary based on the essential oil.

          Reply
  8. Gaelle says

    March 31, 2020 at 6:18 pm

    Hell,

    I’ve just discovered your website and it is super helpful! thank you soo much for all those info!

    I have been looking for few days now but can’t find anything: is there a calculator, or a website that indicates the quantity of each EO that is advised to use together?

    for example, if I want to make a cold process soap with lemongrass and rosemary EO, is there any tool to tell/advice me what is the best combination in %?

    I found calculator that give me the total amount of EO to use according to the amount of oil, but can’t find anything regarding how each EO is to be calculated separately..

    or maybe there is a website/list with the most known combinations of EO and their %?

    Also, can you please explain step by step how to use the toothpick test? I’m not sure to understand properly if I should dip one end in all EO I want to use or each end in separate EO then place all toothpicks in the sealed bag, even though the last option makes more sense..

    Reply
    • lovelygreens says

      April 1, 2020 at 10:54 am

      As far as I’m aware, there’s no essential oil calculator like that. It would be handy though! You have to work it out manually until that time.

      Toothpick test: use a separate toothpick for each ‘part’ of essential oil. For example, if your blend would be two parts lavender and one part rosemary, you’d have two toothpicks of lavender and one of rosemary.

      Reply
  9. Stacia Evans says

    December 22, 2019 at 8:42 pm

    Do the amount of percentage change if you are using more than one Essential Oil?

    Reply
    • lovelygreens says

      December 23, 2019 at 3:42 pm

      Stick to the guide of 3% total essential oil in soap recipes. That includes blends too. Keep in mind that some essential oils have lower usage rates.

      Reply
  10. Lynne says

    November 16, 2019 at 3:43 pm

    Thanks for this really helpful article – my brain was fried before reading it!

    I have settled on a blend of 3 Eos for a cp soap batch of the following:
    Rose Maroc absolute
    Neroli
    Patchouli
    Using your suggestion of 30, 60, 10% it brings the Rose to 0.09% which is too high. How could I rectify this? By lowering the percentage of the top note and adding to middle/base notes? Diluting the top note between rose and AN Other EO?
    I love the blend I’ve put together so I’d rather not add another EO to the mix!

    Thank you so much for your help; it’s very much appreciated.

    Reply
    • lovelygreens says

      November 17, 2019 at 12:33 pm

      The percentages are just a guideline rather than law — if you like your blend, run with it 🙂

      Reply
      • Lib says

        December 3, 2019 at 8:07 pm

        Good morning….. I was thinking about using a ‘fixer’ like arrowroot to help keep the smell of the essential oils from fading I haven’t found where in the process in soap making to add the fixer? Thanks so much and I’ve read your articles for soap making for beginners and they’re great

        Reply
        • lovelygreens says

          December 6, 2019 at 10:59 am

          Mix it with a little water and add at trace.

          Reply
  11. Piotr says

    November 1, 2019 at 10:03 pm

    Hi! First of all, thank you very much for all the instructions – fantastic job!
    And before I will make my first soap I have a question. You commented the lemongrass oil as follow: Lush and green citrus scent that does well on its own in soap and when blended. Also, the lemongrass is recommended as the top oil, not the middle. But on your video on the Youtube about lemongrass soap (great!) you listed lemongrass oil as the basic one. Is it correct?

    Reply
    • lovelygreens says

      November 4, 2019 at 11:54 am

      Citrus essential oils are generally top notes — these are scents that you smell right away in a blend. Lemongrass can be used on its own in a soap recipe or blended with other essential oils though.

      Reply
  12. Nakelya says

    August 4, 2019 at 5:43 am

    So you dont have to dilute essential oils when making cold press or melt and pour soaps? Im new to soap making and trying to do my research before trying my first batch.

    Reply
    • lovelygreens says

      August 4, 2019 at 1:43 pm

      Just adding them to the soap mix is diluting them. The point about dilution is that you should (almost) never use essential oils directly on the skin.

      Reply
  13. Bushra says

    July 21, 2019 at 8:23 am

    Can you explain about top notes, middle notes and base notes.
    I am a beginner and have no idea.

    Reply
  14. Fiona says

    June 22, 2019 at 6:45 pm

    Hi, is there a reason you don’t list thyme essential oil? I just used it today and it caused almost immediate ricing! Is this why it’s not on your list? Are there any others to avoid from your experience?

    Many Thanks

    Reply
    • lovelygreens says

      June 23, 2019 at 7:32 am

      Thyme is an essential oil that you need to be very cautious with. At the maximum usage rate of 0.5-1% in soap it can still cause skin irritation and the scent might not even come through. It naturally contains high levels of Thymol, and some types also contain Geraniol, both of which are known skin allergens.

      Reply
  15. Dhanushka says

    April 5, 2019 at 5:26 pm

    This is actually good. But I want to get more information.

    Reply
  16. Patrizia says

    March 15, 2019 at 6:41 am

    Hi, thank you for the information about using essential oils in cold press soap.
    My question is are all essential oils made equal? If not do the quantities change with quality of essential oil? Thank you

    Reply
    • lovelygreens says

      March 15, 2019 at 6:26 pm

      Not all essential oils are equal but the amount specified in this piece are standard for the type. Better quality essential oils are made from higher quality plant material and better processing methods.

      Reply
  17. Sarah Gladden says

    March 12, 2019 at 9:32 am

    Thank you for sharing this chart and explaining the process. I am a candle maker by trade and now dipping my toes into cold process soap. I have looked at fragrance calculators online (US ones) and from my experience of candle making I know not to necessarily follow what makers do in other countries. The calculators I have come across seem to base the amount of essential oil (or fragrance oil) on the weight of the oils in the soap and not the total weight for the soap batter. My question is, do I calculate the 3% from the weight of the oils, or the total batter weight (including the lye/water weight.) Many thanks!

    Reply
    • lovelygreens says

      March 13, 2019 at 7:48 am

      It should be calculated as the percentage of all the ingredients in the recipe except the water. Most of the water evaporates out of your soap after you make it but before you use it.

      Reply
      • Sarah Gladden says

        March 13, 2019 at 8:07 am

        Many thanks! That makes perfect sense.

        Reply
  18. liz says

    February 5, 2019 at 7:02 am

    hi – i am hoping you can help me – i am starting to make some blends for my cp soaps – i have a mix that has nutmeg essential oil in it but i cannot for the life of me find the safe % of nutmeg to use – is there somewhere you can advise me to look
    thanks
    liz

    Reply
    • lovelygreens says

      February 6, 2019 at 11:48 am

      In the EU you may use Nutmeg essential oil in up to 0.08% by weight in handmade soap made for retail. Providing you have the proper cosmetic assessments, cosmetic insurance, and have submitted the product to the EU cosmetic database. I generally use the EU guidelines for all my handmade soap, regardless of whether they are destined to be sold or not.

      Reply
  19. Andrea Rodriguez says

    January 15, 2019 at 7:06 pm

    This was very helpful. Thanks for it!

    Reply
  20. ena says

    December 30, 2018 at 5:48 am

    Thank you for this very useful and informative article.

    Question, if you use photosensitive oils (i.e. bergamot, lemon, citrus oils) as ingredients in soap or facial wash, etc… does the rule on non-exposure to direct sunlight after use apply? Or does this only apply to roller blends?

    Reply
    • lovelygreens says

      January 3, 2019 at 12:27 pm

      It’s not the same as in leave-on products. Unless you have VERY sensitive skin, ou’re perfectly fine to go out in the sun after using a soap made with citrus oils. Most of it washes off in the bath or shower.

      Reply
  21. Nicolas says

    December 15, 2018 at 6:17 pm

    What about prcentage of essential oils dor children 7 and up and 4 years to 7 years? All base on soap weight?

    Reply
    • lovelygreens says

      December 15, 2018 at 7:23 pm

      I’d say the standard amounts are fine for kids but choose essential oils that are more sensitive. Lavender for one. It might actually be better to make unscented soap for kids though anyway.

      Reply
  22. Justin Snodgrass says

    November 26, 2018 at 8:08 pm

    Many thanks for the info! Very helpful.

    Reply
  23. Granny js Handmade Soap says

    October 30, 2018 at 5:43 pm

    Thanks for sharing such a important information. This is really useful and helps a lot. I want to say Thank You again.

    Reply
  24. Bing says

    August 30, 2018 at 5:37 am

    Thank you for this informative article.

    In my experience, some essential oil scents are difficult to maintain in soap especially citrus oils. Do you prefer to CP or HP your soaps and do you add clays to help fix them?

    Thanks

    Reply
    • lovelygreens says

      September 2, 2018 at 7:44 pm

      There are a few things that can help fix the scent of essential oils — clays, orris root powder, and even oatmeal pieces in my experience. Some essential oils are more tricky though — lemon, orange, and tangerine can fade quickly. I don’t tend to use them in cold-process soap unless they’re fixed with another essential oil like Litsea cubeba. Even then, they do fade a bit.

      Reply
  25. Ralph Brunjes says

    July 7, 2018 at 10:09 am

    Hi,
    I have never made soap before and am wondering how do you go about getting your soaps seen by a chemist and what sort of charges would they be .
    Many thanks and a wonderfull website on the many different things you do.
    Ralph

    Reply
    • lovelygreens says

      July 7, 2018 at 11:32 am

      The way it works in the UK is that you send your recipes to a chemist who offers the service. They look over them and certify that they’re safe and within regulations. After that, you’re able to get insurance and to legally sell your handmade soap (and other bath/cosmetic products) to the public. Legally you cannot sell soap or personal care products to anyone in the UK and European Union without a Cosmetic Safety Assessment by a EU certified chemist.

      Reply
  26. Jayalatha says

    July 4, 2018 at 8:11 am

    Hi Sarah ,
    I am having little confusion in soap making if I want to try some essential oil blends in soap making ,for example lye,water, coconut and olive oil all together if I trace and weight for small batch 100 gm to test the essential blends how much I should measure it , in drops or tsp or in gram ,plz guide me and also natural clay how much I should add for 100 gram I can multiply for big batches. Past 1 year l am learning and reading kindle books and watching YouTube still little clarification needed.
    Sorry for to big text
    Thanks
    Jaya

    Reply
    • lovelygreens says

      July 4, 2018 at 11:41 am

      Hi Jaya — Tanya here (no Sarah :). When calculating a recipe technically, you should always measure by weight, not volume. However, it’s easier to measure out essential oils in teaspoons and Tablespoons while making soap. If you want to make a perfect 3% essential oil recipe, pre-measure the oils on a micro-scale and then afterwards measure the volume amount. Different essential oils will have a different volume measurement for the same weight.

      Reply
  27. Trystan Mentzer says

    June 25, 2018 at 5:56 pm

    Would the amounts be the same when using a melt and pour soap base?

    Reply
    • lovelygreens says

      June 28, 2018 at 12:34 pm

      Good question! Yes is the answer

      Reply
  28. Miyun says

    June 14, 2018 at 4:18 pm

    Hi Helen. Thank you for the info. But which EU law are you applying? (‘The EU considers an essential oil usage rate of 3% or less to be safe in wash-off products like soap’). I am looking at the EU regulation at the moment and couldn’t find it. Would you mind share the link with us? I used more than 3% EO on my soap.

    Reply
    • lovelygreens says

      June 14, 2018 at 4:27 pm

      Who’s Helen? As for the 3% rule that’s regulated by the chemists who create safety assessments. You cannot legally sell handmade soap to customers in the EU without having your recipes certified by a chemist. This 3% rule comes from my own chemist.

      Reply
      • Miyun says

        June 14, 2018 at 8:19 pm

        Hi Tanya. Sorry about that I got your name wrong. I need more help here. Where can I find the regulation saying that ”we are not allowed to sell soaps without having a chemist certification” under EU laws? So are you saying that all the handmade soaps in the market without chemist certification is illegal?

        Reply
        • lovelygreens says

          June 19, 2018 at 5:34 pm

          Yes and if anything happens, your insurance would not cover you. All the legal jargon is in EU Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products

          Reply
        • Emily Webster says

          July 1, 2018 at 7:16 am

          It is really shocking that so many people are unaware of the law. As well as having to get each and every recipe safety assessed, you also have to use “stamped for trade” scales to check the weight of your end product. Kitchen scales, however accurate, just won’t do. It’s an expensive business getting started, that’s for sure, even more so if you want a variety of different products in your range, as each must be separately assessed. There are also strict laws about labelling and declaring ingredients. Try the Guild of Craft Soap and Toiletry Makers for more advice.

          Reply
  29. Cheri says

    April 20, 2018 at 1:56 am

    So if you only use two essential oils like cedarwood and vanilla what would the percent be ? I’ve been told vanilla is a very strong scent is that true. should I use less vanilla. Any thoughts. I like the tooth pick idea. Thanks Cheri

    Reply
    • lovelygreens says

      April 20, 2018 at 8:53 am

      Vanilla is a fragrance oil rather than an essential oil. As for mixing, the top, middle, and base ratios are a guide but not a rule. Use the toothpick method to create a blend that you and others like and then go for it 🙂

      Reply
  30. Sarah says

    April 5, 2018 at 5:12 pm

    Hello.
    I love your site. It is wonderful. I am trying to mix my own essential oils. Can I mix just two flavours? Or must it be top, middle and base?

    Reply
    • lovelygreens says

      April 6, 2018 at 11:13 am

      When it comes to mixing your own oils, it’s completely up to you! The top, middle, and base recommendations are purely a guide. There are many middle-top and middle-base blends that work well.

      Reply
    • Kate Sandles says

      July 15, 2019 at 9:41 pm

      Hi, first of all let me just say thanks! I love your website and all the info you provide.😊. I have been following recipes at the moment to make soap, but I’m finding that the sent from the essential oils I am adding don’t seem to last through the curing process. You mentioned adding clays and/or orris root powder. Any more info on this, e.g.. when to add and what quantities?
      Thanks

      Reply
    • Wendy Moir says

      August 2, 2019 at 9:50 pm

      Hi Tanya,
      Can rosewood be used in CP soap making?
      If so what can it be mixed with and what % can be used please?
      Many thanks
      Wendy

      Reply
  31. Becky says

    March 27, 2018 at 1:31 pm

    I just came across your website and new to soap making, this list has really helped me out with my blends but I wanted to make a soap with Pink Grapefruit, Lavander, Rosemary and sweet orange. 2 of theses EO are top notes and 2 of these EO are middle notes. How would I work out the 100% total? Would i devide the 2 top notes and devide the 2 middle notes

    15% Grapefruit 0.24 =0.8
    15% Sweet Orange 0.24 =0.8
    30% Rosemary 0.24 = 0.24.5
    30% Lavender 0.24= 0.24.5

    I have probably done this all wrong. Please could you give me some advice. Also are these percentages based on grams? Example 30% lavander is 0.24= 0.24.5 grams or Oz. Sorry confused maybe a soap recipe of yours would be ideal as an example .

    Reply
    • lovelygreens says

      March 27, 2018 at 2:20 pm

      Hi Becky! Have you ever tried the toothpick test before? It’s a way of testing an essential oil blend before making an entire batch of soap. In your case, get five toothpicks. Each toothpick has two ends which you’ll dip into essential oil and then place in a sealed bag. Seal it up and then in a minute or so, have a smell to see if you like the blend. If you don’t like it, try again.

      As for making up the last 10% of your recipe, it’s completely up to you. You can choose a base note like cedar or ginger, or bulk up your middle note essential oils to cover the difference.

      Reply
  32. Leen says

    March 13, 2018 at 3:51 am

    Thank you for posting this information! I’ve been trying to find something like this forever and i’m glad I stumbled across it over on Pinterest! I’m going to tuck this info away for the next soap making day!!

    Reply
    • lovelygreens says

      March 13, 2018 at 6:43 pm

      You’re welcome Leen and happy soap making 🙂

      Reply
  33. JQ says

    February 28, 2018 at 5:46 pm

    ‘m a little confused. If I used three different essential oils in one pound of soap, the combined EO should not exceed 3% of 16oz or each EO should not exceed 3%?

    Also, the note chart doesn’t equal 100%, so that’s confusing to me too?
    30% of a blend should be Top Notes
    80% of a blend should be Middle Notes
    10% of a blend should be Base Note

    Thanks

    Reply
    • lovelygreens says

      March 2, 2018 at 12:43 pm

      Hope this helps: 3% of 16oz is 0.48oz — that’s the total amount in weight of essential oils you’d use in this particular recipe.

      30% of 0.48oz = 0.14
      60% of 0.48oz = 0.29
      10% of 0.48oz = 0.05

      Reply
      • JQ says

        May 25, 2018 at 10:54 pm

        I refer to this page allot. Thank you so much for writing this article.

        Reply
      • Alex says

        February 1, 2019 at 10:46 pm

        This is just what I was looking for thanks for the breakdown x

        Reply
      • Shannon says

        March 4, 2020 at 6:12 pm

        Further to this, I would like to clarify. My mold makes 3 lbs of soap. Hence the total amount of melt and pour soap base would be 48oz . 3% of 48 oz is 1.44
        Using the example above
        30% of 1.44 oz= 0.43oz
        60% of 1.44oz= 0.86Oz
        10% of 1.44oz = 0.14oz
        Would I convert ounces to teaspoons or drops for measuring the essential oils ?
        Do I need to dilute the essential oil blend in a carrier oil like sweet almond oil before adding to the melt and pour base?
        Also would I add this blend evenly to each layer of soap or it doesn’t matter?

        Reply
        • lovelygreens says

          March 6, 2020 at 10:13 am

          I’d stick with the weights at first. If you want to use teaspoons for subsequent batches, work out how many teaspoons equate to those particular weights when you make the first batch.

          No need to dilute essential oils in carrier oils before adding to soap. Carrier oils are meant to dilute essential oils before you put them directly on your skin (think massage oils).

          The essential oil should ideally be consistent right through your soap.

          Reply
  34. Angel Allen says

    January 25, 2018 at 4:44 pm

    Hello! I just discovered your site and love it!!! I am brand new at this soap making craft and am very excited! The Essential Oil for Soap Making Chart is great, is there a way to print this chart? I tried to simply copy and paste, but it did not work.

    I appreciate your information and time that you have put in for this site. I look forward to hearing from you.

    Reply
    • lovelygreens says

      January 26, 2018 at 8:03 am

      Hi Angel and happy to welcome a beginner soap maker 🙂 I don’t yet have a printable version of this chart but I’ll look into creating one. Stay tuned!

      Reply
  35. Liydmila says

    November 6, 2017 at 4:21 pm

    Hi Tanya/ I am Lyuda/ I would like ask about essential oils for soap. I saw in your video a big bottle of them/ What is the oils and where i can buy them/ . I have read a lot about them and i saw a very expensive and less what you advice about them/ Thank you

    Reply
  36. Arian says

    January 13, 2017 at 3:03 am

    You are an angel! Thank you so much for the specificity of your directions as well as sharing helpful hints. As someone who has scoured the internet and books for clear direction, it has to be said, you are the Harvard of teachers in soaping. Bless you!

    Reply
    • lovelygreens says

      January 13, 2017 at 11:50 am

      You’re so welcome Arian — happy soaping!

      Reply
  37. Lana says

    January 12, 2017 at 6:23 pm

    Hi Tanya, thank you for this valuable lesson on essential oil percentages. I’m new to soap making and I always wonder should I let me soap gel or not!!!! which method is better??? please help 🙂

    Reply
    • lovelygreens says

      January 12, 2017 at 7:47 pm

      To Gel just means to intensify the color and make the soap a shinier, less opaque tone. If you don’t gel it will be opaque and much more toned down in shade. Both can be beautiful!

      Reply
  38. Helen says

    October 15, 2016 at 7:00 pm

    Thanks for your extensive post today. I have to admire your beautiful soap colours. I am a soapmaker, and have tried several methods to get those bright clear colours. Including infusions, adding color straight to lye water and using the whitest oils possible. Any suggestions?

    Reply
    • lovelygreens says

      October 16, 2016 at 9:19 am

      Hi Helen! The method for using each natural colour is different and variations will occur based on how much you use, temperature, introduction method, introduction sequence, whether the soap gels or not, colour of oils, colour of essential oils or fragrance oils, and quality of the substance used. It’s all about trial and error to get the right shade.

      Reply

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