How to make Liquid Hand Soap from Scratch
Recipe and instructions for how to make liquid hand soap using olive oil and coconut oil. Makes over two quarts of natural liquid soap for use in pumps and squeezy bottles
Washing our hands has never been more important, and many of us have been going through bars and bottles of soap like never before. So much so that people are running out and sometimes finding it difficult to buy. Just yesterday I went into two supermarkets trying to find liquid hand soap to no avail — it’s gone the way of hand sanitizer here, especially the good stuff. I hope you can find it a little easier in your area but if not, you can make liquid hand soap yourself.
If you’ve made bar soap before using the hot process method, then this recipe will feel familiar. If you’re mainly a cold-process soap maker, the process is entirely different. It takes prolonged heat, a different kind of lye, and a lot more time. At the end of saponification, you’ll have a soap paste that you can store for up to two years, or dilute into liquid soap on the spot. In fact, the relatively small investment in cost will make at least two quarts (two liters) of the best quality natural liquid soap you’ve ever used.
Ingredients to make liquid hand soap
This is a bastille recipe, meaning that it’s at least seventy percent olive oil. I’m using extra virgin olive oil in my batch, which is why the resulting paste and soap have a greenish tinge. If you use light-colored olive oil, then your soap will be cheaper to make and a color similar to Dr. Bronners. The other oil in the recipe is refined 76 coconut oil and it adds the lather and bubbles that olive oil soap lacks.
The other ingredients you’ll need are distilled water, Potassium hydroxide (KOH), and vegetable glycerine. Liquid hand soap has a superfat of just 3% so the glycerine helps add moisture and glide. If you’d like to scent your soap you can also add essential oils, though that’s completely optional. Those that smell nice and that have disinfectant qualities include lavandin, peppermint, and tea tree. At the end of the process, you’ll have a golden liquid soap that’s golden and translucent.
Lye: KOH vs NaOH
I’ve said it many times before, but soap making is chemistry. Soap is created through a process called saponification in which lye and oils interact in a controlled manner. In cold-process soap making, you use Sodium hydroxide (NaOH) to create hard bars of soap. In liquid soap making, you use a different type of lye called Potassium hydroxide (KOH). Also called caustic potash, it will not create solid soap and instead results in a kind of sticky vaseline-looking paste. Diluting the paste in water creates liquid soap.
Almost all KOH available to the home soap maker is only 90% pure, but you should make sure before you begin. Oftentimes, it will be on the bottle but if not, check with the retailer or look on their website for a document for the lye called an MSDS sheet. It’s a material safety data sheet and it will tell you all about what’s in it, amongst other information. If your KOH is different, make sure to rework the amount you’ll need for this recipe using the SoapCalc. It’s best to always run soap recipes through it beforehand anyway. The field it includes for KOH has a tickbox for if the potassium hydroxide is only 90% pure.
Soap making equipment
Many of the items you’ll need to make liquid hand soap are the same ones you’d use in cold-process soap making. There’s a list below that includes familiar tools such as an immersion blender and a digital scale. The one real difference is a slow-cooker/crockpot. The process needs steady, indirect, and prolonged heat for the cooking phase and slow cookers are the best tools for the job. After you’re finished making soap, the slow-cooker is perfectly fine to use to make food recipes. You don’t need to purchase one specifically for soap making.
Stovetops can have hot spots and the direct heat on a pan could be problematic. I don’t know of any soap makers that would make liquid soap using this method on a stove, but if anyone did, it would probably require cooking on a double-boiler. If you’ve made liquid soap using a stove or oven, do leave a comment and let us know about your experience.
Making Liquid Hand Soap
Making liquid hand soap has three phases: cooking the ingredients, testing for clarity and completed saponification, and liquifying the soap paste into something you’d recognize as liquid soap. Each step takes time, but especially the first and third steps. When I say time, you’d do well to set aside a weekend for this project. Some liquid soap makers have the experience of being able to make it all in an afternoon, but I don’t think that’s realistic for most. Expect that it will take longer, and take your time while making liquid hand soap and you’ll have better results.
There’s a video pin at the top of this piece that shows the various stages of this soap recipe. Have a watch to better understand the process and save it for later on Pinterest.
Most of my soap recipes are for small batches of cold-process soap. It takes about an hour or less to make them and then you forget about them for a month while they cure. Because making liquid soap takes a lot longer, this recipe is relatively larger. That way you invest the time once and have enough soap to last months, or longer.
Your final soap paste should be about 1100 g/38.8 oz/2.43 lbs, and once liquified with distilled water and glycerine, it will be at least double that. In volume measurements, that’s approximately two quarts. You could even have a lot more if you decide to add more water.
As you read below you may feel a little overwhelmed by the steps and testing. In that case, you can also make a simple kind of liquid soap by grating up a bar of soap. I go over how you make it in this piece.
Testing liquid hand soap
Liquid soap making is much more tricky than cold-process soap making because of the lye. With KOH being only 90% pure, it can cause your soap to be lye-heavy, and harsh on the skin, or overly superfatted and cloudy. You can have everything measured correctly and this can still happen because of the lye’s 10% wild card. That’s why testing your soap is so important, and unfortunately, it needs to be done for every batch of liquid soap you make.
Testing the superfat
If your liquid soap has too high of a superfat, so anything more than 3%, then it will turn your soap cloudy. It can also cause all kinds of issues once you begin adding essential oils and fragrances, and some people have reported seeing their soap separate afterward. Also, too much oil can separate anyway and float to the surface, after you dilute the soap paste in water.
After you think the soap has finished cooking, gently stir a teaspoon of soap paste into half a cup of scalding hot distilled water. Let it sit and dissolve, giving it another stir if it needs help breaking up. Let it cool completely then have a look. If there’s oil on the surface, or if the liquid is milky and opaque then you still have unsaponified oils in the paste. Continue cooking it until it’s much clearer. Just to be clear, milky means you can’t see through it at all. If your liquid is translucent then you’re good to go.
Testing for lye-heaviness
You test for excess lye by checking its pH. Dilute one part soap paste into ninety-nine parts scalding hot distilled water and cool to room temperature. Take the pH using strips (Litmus test papers) and check to see if the soap is between 9-10. Allow the paper to dry completely for the most accurate result.
Liquid soap is supposed to be alkaline, but if it’s above this amount then your soap is lye-heavy. Adjust down to the proper pH by adding diluted citric acid but don’t go below 9 or it will destabilize. Further information on testing liquid soap is over here.
Shelf-life and Preservatives
One big thing you’ll find different in my recipe compared to others is the last stage — I don’t liquefy the soap paste all at once. Whenever you add liquid water to a product, be it food, lotions, or soap, you’re creating an environment that microbes can colonize. The alkaline pH of the soap should deter most, but to be on the safe side, just wait, and liquify only the amount that you’d use in a month. Alternatively, you can liquefy it all but please add a broad-spectrum preservative to keep microbes out. There are various types to choose from, including natural preservatives.
Another thing I need to add, or rather not add. If you wanted to add things like goat milk or honey or other lovely yummy ingredients I’d encourage you to think twice. Because of the water content, your soap will already be a temptation for bacteria. Adding sugar-rich ingredients will tempt them even more! If you use them at any stage of liquid soap making, you will need a preservative to stop your soap from becoming a microbe breeding ground.
Natural Liquid Hand Soap Recipe
Equipment
- Various kitchen bowls
Ingredients
Lye solution
- 181 g Potassium hydroxide (90% pure) 6.39 oz
- 550 g Distilled water 19.4 oz
Oils
- 240 g Coconut oil (refined) 8.47 oz
- 560 g Olive oil 19.75 oz
For diluting
Instructions
Make the Soap Paste
- Prepare your workstation with your tools and equipment. Put on rubber gloves, eye protection, and an apron. Carefully pre-measure the ingredients. The oils in the slow cooker, the water in a heat-proof jug, and the lye (KOH) in another container.
- Turn the slow cooker on to high heat and melt the coconut oil. When it's liquid, continue to the next step but keep the heat on.
- Dissolve the lye crystals in water. In an airy place, outdoors is best, pour the lye crystals into the water (not the other way around) and stir well. Don't be alarmed if it fizzes and crackles as this is normal for KOH. If you've made soap using sodium hydroxide, please note that the reaction between KOH is a little more active. Stir until the lye is completely dissolved.
- Pour the lye solution into the melted oils. Now it's time to blend. Put the immersion blender in the slow cooker and, turned off, use it as a spoon to gently stir the ingredients together. Bring it to the middle of the slow cooker next, press it right against the bottom and turn it on for a few seconds. Don't move it around while it's on. Now turn it off and use it to stir again. Repeat this until you see the batter thicken slightly. Put the lid on the slow cooker and allow it to sit for five minutes before coming back. The soap batter may look a little separated or chunky and different from other types of soap you've made before. Don't be too concerned.
- Repeat this process of stirring and blending and allowing to sit for a few minutes. After fifteen to thirty minutes it will thicken up to very thick 'Trace'. Keep stick blending until the soap becomes thick like really dry mashed potatoes and it becomes difficult to stick blend any longer.
- Time to cook. All this time the slow cooker has been on high heat and that's where you're going to leave it for at least the next three to six hours. Put the lid on, and let it cook for that time, stirring every thirty minutes. You can set a timer if that helps. During that time, the texture of the soap will change dramatically -- from the runny custard to mashed potatoes, to puffy taffy, to glue, to something that looks like a puffy mess with chunks of greenish or golden amber.
- Finally, after hours of cooking and stirring, the soap will all look amber paste. Some soap makers describe it as looking like vaseline. Once your soap looks like that, it's probably fully cooked. This soap paste is the first major step in creating your liquid hand soap.Note: if you cook and cook and don't seem to get anywhere. Unplug the slow cooker, cover it with a towel and let it sit overnight. Have a look the next morning and see what it looks like. Sometimes just letting it sit in residual heat overnight does the trick. If this doesn't work, keep heating it the next morning.
Testing the soap
- You now need to know if the soap is actually complete and if it's lye-heavy or not. Let's begin by seeing if there's unsaponified oil in the soap.Gently stir a teaspoon of soap paste into half a cup of scalding hot distilled water. Let it sit and dissolve, giving it another stir if it needs help breaking up. Let it cool completely then have a look. If there's oil on the surface, or if the liquid is milky and opaque then you still have unsaponified oils in the paste. Continue cooking it until it's much clearer. Just to be clear, milky means you can't see through it at all. If your liquid is translucent then you're good to go.
- Test the soap for excess lye by checking its pH. Dilute one part soap paste into ninety-nine parts scalding hot distilled water and cool to room temperature. Take the pH using strips (Litmus test papers) and check to see if the soap is between 9-10. Allow the paper to dry completely for the most accurate result.Liquid soap is supposed to be alkaline, but if it's above this amount then your soap is lye-heavy. Adjust down to the proper pH by adding diluted citric acid but don't go below 9 or it will destabilize.
Diluting the soap paste
- Once you've tested the paste, you can now dilute part or all of it. If you dilute the full amount, then you'll have more soap than you'll probably be able to use in a month. In that case, you will need to add a suitable broad-spectrum preservative. Alternatively, keep the soap paste stored in a jar and dilute part of it at a time. The soap paste does not need a preservative and has a shelf-life of up to two years. The shelf-life will be the closest best-by date of the ingredients you use (check your bottles). You can also use the soap paste on its own without diluting it.
- 100g of soap paste will give you approximately 200ml of liquid soap. Use more or less depending on how much soap you need. Measure the amount back into the slow cooker.
- Add the distilled water and glycerine to dilute the soap paste.Multiply the weight of the soap paste you're using by 0.8 -- this is how much distilled water you add to the slow cooker.Multiply the weight of the soap paste you're using by 0.2 -- this is how much vegetable glycerine you add to the slow cooker.
- Turn the slow cooker on to high and warm the contents through. Gently stir, turn the heat to keep warm, and leave for an hour. Come back after that time, stir again, squish any blobs gently, and turn the heat off. Cover the slow cooker with a towel and leave it to sit for several hours, if not overnight. The soap paste will go soft and mushy in the same way that a bar of soap will do if you leave it sitting in water. If you come back and it's not fully soft, you can add a little more heat and more gentle stirring. It's not an exact science, this part, and patience is essential.
- When it looks fairly liquid, cool it completely, and strain the soap through a sieve into another bowl. This will catch any chunks of soap paste. Add 10-20 drops of essential oil (per 200ml) if you wish, the preservative if you're using one, and bottle it up in squeezy bottles or pump bottles. It's ready to use immediately.
Further resources for making liquid soap
If you’re interested in learning more about the art of making liquid soap, shampoo, and other liquid cleansers, check out these books
Can you make this into a face wash?
It has a very low superfat, meaning that it would be too cleansing to be a facial soap
Hello,
After making the liquid hand soap, how can I prepare it for a foam soap dispenser? Do I just dilute the soap to a (90/10) soap/water? If I do that, how can I prevent the soap and water to not separate when sitting for an extended amount of time? I just really like foam soaps to use in my home. Thank you in advance.
Hi Stephanie, once diluted with water the soap doesn’t separate. I have soap in a dispenser right now that I diluted nearly two months ago and it’s perfectly fine :)
Hello, my soap has a ph of 7 or 8… is that ok? Otherwise, it seems fine.
If it seems fine and feels alright on your skin then I’d use it. The pH seems suspiciously low though, and I suspect something went wrong with the testing.
This recipe worked very well the first time I used it – thank you. The only problem was that the scent of the lavender essential oil I added was completely overpowered by the “soapy” smell of the mixture. Any suggestions?
You could add a bit more essential oil, but no more than 3-4% by weight, depending on the essential oil
Thank you so much for your instructions. After a loooong day of making some castile soap, wondering if I was doing anything right, I came upon your post and it honestly, resonated with practically everything. You answered all the questions I was trying to find answers for…unsuccessfully until now! thnk you.
This was so helpful. I don’t see a lot of recipes for liquid hand soap.
After washing your hands does this leave a oil residue in your sink? If so, is there something you can add to prevent that from happening?
No oil residue.
Thank you for the recipe. Looking forward to try it.. one little question- when i used soapcalc with this recipe the amount of water it shows is 304 gr instead of 550 gr as you did. Why is that?
Water amount in soap recipes is variable. Some soapmakers use more, and some use less, for different reasons. For hot process soap, including this liquid hand soap, you need a lot more water than in cold-process.
Looking forward to making this. Do I have to use glycerin with the water to dilute?
Thanks,
Sarah
Hi Sarah, glycerin is pretty important in this recipe because it helps keep your skin from drying out. Liquid soap has a very low superfat, meaning very cleansing.
Is oil required? I thought liquid soap could be made with just glycerin, water, and potassium hydroxide, but cannot find any instructions for doing so online.
Yes, oil is 100% required. Soap is the chemical result of fats/oils reacting with lye (potassium hydroxide in this case).
Hello there,
Am I able to use other scenting products aside from natural essential oils?
Hi Stephanie, and yes, there are synthetic fragrances suitable for handmade soap. This is a natural soapmaking site though, and I don’t use them in my soap and skincare recipes.
The tip to liquify only a month worth at a time is GENIUS!
Hi! Thanks for the instructions. I followed them but used all olive oil (and a soap calculator to adjust the potassium hydroxide and water. It cooked and cooked all day (probably 12 hours) and was looking good but leaving a tiny bit of oil on the surface of the water when tested. I turned it off and put a towel over it overnight, and have come back to it having turned quite opaque and solid, and still leaving some oil on the surface of the water when tested. Would I just turn it back on?
Hi, when I am diluting my soap paste, it is forming a skin on the top. Is this a problem? Am I doing something wrong? I am heating in gently in a double saucepan. Or can I just sieve it out at the end? Thank you.
Hi Amanda and it’s not a problem :) If there are any lumps or bumps or skin after dilution, you can sieve them out. I don’t bother though.
I’m just wondering if thickners can be added and at which stage.
This will be my first time trying my hands on liquid soap though
You don’t need thickeners with this recipe. Your end product is a very thick paste that you then need to dilute in water to make liquid soap. The more water you use, the runnier it will be. The less you use, the thicker.
Thank you very much and for the recipe. I will be giving it a go.😊
Hi, thanks for the recipe. Just wondering were did you purchase the clear bottles…
One of my cosmetic container suppliers. You can find a lot of options online though, such as these on Amazon.
Hi Tanya. I am just wondering if I use 100 percent olive oil will the other ingredients be the same amount ?
Hi Jane, and no, the lye and water amount will change. For more information on changing and customizing a soap recipe head here.
Hi! I am trying this recipe for the 1st time, though I have made several of your cold process bar soap recipes. I just have a question about the cooking phase. I notice after 30 minutes I have a bit of water from steam collected on my pot top. I’ve just stirred it in, and am hoping that doesn’t mean my pot is too hot! So far, it looks like what you have described….
You’re fine Beverly, don’t worry about the moisture collecting on the lid too much. It’s completely normal :)
Hello,
Is it possible to add apple cider vinegar to this recipe or any kind of liquid soap/shampoo?
Cider vinegar is usually used on hair to rebalance it and your scalp’s pH after washing it with real soap. I can’t think of a valid reason to add it to the soap directly, but maybe you have an idea?
Hi Tanya, I was wondering what is the difference in bar soap & liquid soap??
I know they are made with different lyes,but liquid shampoo is usually not as drying on one’s hair, as bar soap, or shampoo bar . And I am wondering why???
Thanks! Terri
Hi Terri, there’s a lot more water in liquid soap, making it able to be placed in a pump or squeezy bottle. It’s pretty much the same as bar soap in its cleansing abilities and pH though. Liquid shampoo is not usually true soap, but rather a detergent that is pH balanced for hair. Popular shampoo bars are also usually detergent-based. I’m not a fan of folks trying to make and use from-scratch natural soap on hair or scalp since it can make your hair brittle and exasperate scalp issues due to its alkaline pH.
Tanya, can’t wait to try this! One question does it have to be Castile soap, or can I use different oils with the same outcome? Of course I will run it through a lye calc.
Yep, you can make liquid soap with all kinds of oils, just as you can do with CP/HP :)
Hi Tanya,
Thanks for sharing your recipe.
I’m using a 5.l5L crockpot but the mixture foamed up and out on to the bench during the stir and rest for 5 min phase.
Any suggestions as to why this would have happened?
Thanks
Judy
It’s normal for hot process soap to foam up during the cook, which is why we need to keep an eye on it during that time. The stage you’re referring to is just after being stick blended and that’s a really odd stage for any kind of volcanoing. I’m not really sure what happened, but I hope your soap turned out okay in the end :)
I had this same issue- foamed up & out of the crock pot…not sure why
The soaping term for this situation is a ‘volcano’. It likely got too hot in the crockpot and then volcanoed up and out.
Easy to follow steps and recipe! thank you
This is my second time making liquid soap. The first time I used too much heat and then diluted it too thin for my liking.
This time I am having trouble getting a diluted consistency – the paste doesn’t seem to break down evenly. I started the diluting 27 hours ago. Any suggestions??
Kindest Regards,
Teresa
Hi Teresa, the longer you leave the soap in the water, the more dissolved (liquid) it will become. I know what you mean by the paste not dissolving completely though and that’s why I squish it to the bottom of the pan/crockpot with a spatula to speed things along. Alternatively, instead of adding the water/paste to the crockpot and slow heating it, you can first boil the water and then add the paste. This dissolves the paste pretty quickly.
Thank you so much, this is such a great recipe. One quick question, if I want to thicken my soap, at what point can I add a salt solution, before or after I have added the essential oils ?
Hi Sue, the salt would need to be in the distilled water as you’re diluting the paste. Adding essential oils comes last :)
Hi Tanya, this is the perfect recipe!
Just a quick question – would it work without the glycerin, or is there an alternative?
Glycerin is optional but it does give the soap a smoother and gentler feeling on your skin :)
Hi, thank you for a lovely and informative page about soap making. Do you realise that your links to amazon doesn’t make sense to me in this recipe. You say you use refined coconut oil, but the link takes you to virgin coconut oil. You also say that you use virgin olive oil, but the link takes you to pomace olive oil. Is pomace olive oil suitable for liquid soap?
Hi Siva, all of the original links are to the USA store. If you’re in another region the links open up for that regional Amazon and if the exact product isn’t available then it tries to find you the next best thing. If in doubt, try to find the products you need manually :)
If I use distilled water and pour liquid soap into a sealed mason jar with a pump dispenser, is it still a breeding ground for bacteria? Also do you have an opinion on Benzoin resin as a natural preservative? Thanks Lisa
I’m not sure if you’re asking about this recipe or another idea you’ve come across. This soap doesn’t have a preservative because the pH is inhospitable for microbial life.
I’m a bit confused on adding the distilled water and glycerine. Is it either distilled water or glycerine or do I add both. It doesn’t seem clear to me by the recipe? I’m ready to try it but I want to be sure. Thank you.
Hi Karen, you add both ingredients in the amounts given in step three of ‘Diluting the Soap Paste’
Thanks for sharing ! I am glad you listed the type of Ph strips you used.
Hi, Thanks for sharing!!
Hi,
This looks like a great recipe to try. I am a first time maker and am making some as part of an assignment for university.
The potassium hydroxide that I have been able to source says
“Comes in flake form and is 95.5% pure”
With the difference percentage, would I need to change the amount for this recipe?
Any advice appreciated, thanks
I’d pop the entire recipe into the online SoapCalc and see what the amount of KOH is for using 90% pure KOH, and what it is for pure KOH. Then I’d go with the amount in the middle. The soap recipe is superfatted so there’s some leverage in there to make up any difference, but I’d be extra diligent about checking for lye-heaviness at the end of the cooking process.
Wow!!! Can’t wait to try this recipe out today YAYYY!!! I LOVE the plastic container you put your finished liquid soap in can you please share where I can get some from? Thank you!
I am so excited to find your blog and this soap recipe . I was wondering about how gentle this is on your hands. My daughter’s hands get dried out by most soaps 9 liquid or otherwise). She can us everyone’s hand soap…do you know how this would compare to that?
Hi Beth — with the added glycerine, the soap is very mild. You will need to test your own batch as instructed in the recipe to get the same result though.
Amazing recipe, thank you so much for making it so easy to follow, i love your blogs very informative and helpful thanks for sharing love.
Ruby
Hello Tanya,
Great recipe!!!! I was looking for to try liquid soap made the “proper” way, as I have been using your other recipe: https://lovelygreens.com/how-to-make-natural-liquid-soap/ the one where you use a bar of handmade soap.
Any ideas about how good are both to disinfect our hands or if one should be better than the other, due to its making process?
Thanks and keep up with the great site you have!
Sofia
Liquid soap from scratch is better as liquid soap than that made from bar soap. It’s more cleansing, bubbly, and like the liquid soap that you get at the shop. The other method is a bit of a hack for those who want to make liquid soap in an easy way.
Tanya, I was so thrilled to see the topic, but I don’t own a crockpot unfortunately.. Hopefully in the future this will change and I will be able to make the soap with the help of your recipe.
It looks great anyway!
You can sometimes find them for sale on eBay, or in Facebook groups. Second-hand crockpots are perfect for soaping in, and a much better deal than purchasing new. Glad you’re excited to learn about making liquid hand soap!
Thrift stores often have crock pots, of different sizes and types. (I prefer those where the ceramic is not permanently attached to electrical workings, so the ceramic crock itself can be lifted out and cleaned thoroughly.)
Very interesting recipe. I hope I manage to try it some day.