Oatmeal Soap Recipe (Cold Process)
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Oats are a soothing skincare ingredient perfect in soap recipes for sensitive and inflamed skin. There are different ways to add them, so I’d like to show you a couple of techniques in this all-natural oatmeal soap recipe. It’s from scratch using the cold process method and includes a touch of honey added at the right time to create a creamy color and boost the lather. This piece includes info on using rolled oats, quick oats, oat milk, and colloidal oats in soap making.

Oatmeal is an excellent soap additive that is not only easy to source and inexpensive but also has incredible skin benefits. I remember getting a terrible sunburn many years ago—it was one of those early spring days that I spent working all day in the garden. Nothing could soothe the pain and inflammation except for a warm bath made with oatmeal.
A cup of it in the water was enough to relieve the pain and help me relax. That’s because oatmeal contains several compounds proven to reduce inflammation. The main one is called Avenanthramides, which reduces the skin’s production of cytokines. These are proteins secreted by the immune system to affect other cells. In the case of inflammation, to tell cells to be inflamed and sore. Oatmeal also contains lipids and polysaccharides (starch) that restore your skin’s moisture balance.
All of this makes oatmeal a humble but mighty skincare ingredient. You can use it in lotions, skin cream recipes, facial scrubs, bath fizzies, and even handmade soap. Although soap is a wash-off product and spends less time on your skin than other products, oatmeal can still make it gentle and creamy.
Ways to Use Oatmeal in Soap
Getting those creamy skin-loving oats into your soap is easy, and there are a few ways to go about it. The simplest way is to sprinkle them on the tops of your bars as a decoration. They may add light exfoliation this way, but it’s more about presentation. Another way is to stir oats into soap at emulsion or trace. All sizes of oats can go in this way, but finely ground colloidal oatmeal is the least noticeable. Larger oat pieces can act as light exfoliation when added this way, and can also look interesting in bars cut from loaves.

I used to make a lavender soap with oatmeal to sell using this method some years ago. I swear that it held its fragrance much better than standard lavender soap bars! Perhaps the essential oil is partially absorbed by the oatmeal, which then slowly releases it over time. Lastly, you can blend oat milk or an oaty water into soap recipes. This provides all the benefits of oats without requiring physical pieces of oatmeal.
Oat Milk in Soap Recipes
Milk, such as goat milk, has long been used in natural soap recipes for its creamy feeling and benefits for sensitive skin. Not everyone can use dairy milk in soap, though, for reasons ranging from ethical preference to allergies. In that case, we can get some of the same benefits of dairy milk soap from vegan alternatives such as coconut milk and oat milk.

Adding oat milk to soap recipes is much like adding dairy milk – you use it in place of some or all of the water called for in the recipe. Just as with dairy milk, you have to be careful not to scorch it when it comes into contact with the lye. For this reason, there are two methods to add oat milk to soap recipes. For a full water replacement, freeze oat milk and stir the frozen cubes with the lye crystals. When you mix the frozen oat milk with the lye, it melts, but the temperature doesn’t get very high.

The easier way to add oat milk to soap recipes is with a partial replacement. Lye needs at least its own weight in water to dissolve and make a lye solution. So you use only that much water, and replace the rest of the water called for in the recipe with oat milk. You add the oat milk by pouring it into the warm oils before adding the cooled lye solution.
Oatmeal, Rolled Oats, and Colloidal Oats
There are quite a few different oat products out there, and it can be confusing choosing one for soapmaking. The good news is that, as long as the product is 100% oats, you can use it! When oats are harvested and processed, they’re rolled, cut, and ground into different grades.

Old-fashioned rolled oats are the largest flakes and are my favorite type for using as oaty soap decorations. Mixed into the soap batter, they can also work as a gentle skin exfoliant. Quick oats are a bit finer and cook down to a porridge consistency. They, along with oat flour and colloidal oatmeal, will make your lye solution gloopier than rolled oats. That’s perfectly fine, though, and is just more of the starch in the water. Make sure to scrape all of it out of the jug when adding to the oils.

Both oat flour and colloidal oatmeal are fine grades of oatmeal that you can barely feel in soap. Both add the same goodness as larger pieces of oatmeal, but without the abrasion. They might even be better to use since they have a larger surface area, which means more opportunity for extraction. You can make oat flour at home by putting oatmeal in a coffee grinder and pulsing it until it’s a fine powder. Colloidal oatmeal isn’t easy to make at home since it’s ground and then sifted through extremely fine screens.
Gluten-free Oatmeal Soap
If you have a celiac in the family or want to ensure your products are safe for customers with celiac disease, consider using gluten-free oatmeal. Oats are naturally gluten-free, but are often processed in places that can have gluten contamination. Though gluten needs to be digested to have a celiac effect, it’s better to be safe than sorry! Gluten-free oats are becoming easier to find in supermarkets, but if you’ve not seen them, you can purchase them online.
Troubleshooting Oatmeal Soap
Feel free to use one or several of the methods described above when making oatmeal soap. However, be aware of a few things. First, too much oaty material in the bars may feel too scratchy for some people. I recommend using up to one Tablespoon of oats per 454 g (1lb) batch of soap. You can use more, but that might affect how the soap lathers and feels on your skin.

Additionally, soap made with oat milk can heat up after being poured into the soap mold. If you’d like to avoid partial gels, consider taking steps to prevent the soap from overheating. That may mean refrigerating it or using cavity or slab molds, rather than loaf molds. I’d do this anyway if you want to have lighter colored bars. Personally, I like a bar of oatmeal soap to have a lovely oaty color, which is why I use honey in the recipe below.

Making the lye solution with oat milk, oaty water, or oats may cause it to thicken. It could be ever so slight or full-on goop. If this happens to you, don’t worry, it’s perfectly normal. Don’t strain the lye solution through a sieve if that was your plan; instead, scrape all of it into the oils. A whizz and blitz with the immersion blender, and it will be like the thickening never happened.
Lastly, using oat milk or an oaty infusion in soap may give you blue bars! This only seems to happen when using loaf molds, and the light blue color fades rather quickly. It can be alarming to see at first, though. Soap-making can be full of surprises!
Sensitive Skin Soap Recipes
- Goat’s Milk Soap Recipe
- Simple Tallow Soap Recipe
- Honey and Beeswax Soap Recipe
- Shea Butter Face Soap Recipe

Oatmeal Soap Recipe
Equipment
- immersion blender (stick blender) (also called a stick blender)
- silicone slab mold (1 lb) (or another mold of your preference)
Materials
Lye solution
- 63 g sodium hydroxide 2.22 oz
- 126 g distilled water 4.44 oz
- 1 TBSP oatmeal 6.5 g / 0.23 oz
Solid oils
- 109 g coconut oil (refined) 3.84 oz (24%)
- 64 g shea butter (refined) 2.24 oz (14%)
- 32 g cocoa butter 1.12 oz (7%)
- 1 tsp honey 8.3 g (optional)
Liquid oils
- 227 g olive oil (light colored or pomace) 8.01 oz (50%)
- 23 g castor oil 0.8 oz (5%)
After Trace
- 3 tsp lavender essential oil 14 g (optional)
- rolled oats to decorate (optional)
Instructions
Prepare Your Workspace
- Cold-process soapmaking is chemistry, and this recipe uses lye. Lye is a caustic substance that is completely neutralized in the soapmaking process, but it can be harmful if not handled correctly. Please read this soap making safety guidance before proceeding.
- Prepare your workstation with your tools, equipment, and safety gear. Wear long sleeves and wear rubber gloves, eye protection, and an apron. Carefully pre-measure the ingredients. The solid oils into the pan along with the honey, the liquid oils into a jug, the water into another heat-proof jug, and the lye and oatmeal (for the lye solution) in separate containers.
- Set out your mold and ensure you have everything you need laid out. Being organized at this stage will help you to successfully make soap.
Make Oatmeal Soap
- The first step is to dissolve the lye (sodium hydroxide) crystals in the water. In an airy place, outdoors is best, pour the lye crystals into the water and stir well. There will be a lot of heat and steam so be careful. Try not to breathe it in. After they're dissolved, stir in the oats.
- Leave outside in a safe place, or in a shallow basin of water to cool. If you use rolled oats, the liquid will only slightly thicken as the starch is released. It may be thicker if you use porridge oats (quick oats) or colloidal oats. Don't worry if this happens.
- Melt the solid oils and honey on low heat in a stainless steel pan on the stovetop. Leave it on the heat until all the oils are melted and you notice the honey sizzling a little at the bottom of the pan. This sizzling is the honey slightly caramelizing which will help the soap have a creamier finished color.
- When melted, remove from the heat and set on a potholder. Pour in the liquid oils. If you have the olive and castor oils in the same container, stir them together first before pouring into the pan. Castor oil is thick and sticky and it's easier to pour when mixed with a lighter oil.
- Measure the temperatures of the oaty lye solution and the oils. Aim to cool them both to be 100°F (38°C) or just below.
- Pour the lye solution into the pan of oils. Don't use a sieve unless you want to remove the oatmeal pieces from the lye solution. If your lye solution is thick and gloopy, don't use a sieve at all. Just pour/scrape it all into the oils.
- Dip the immersion blender into the pan, and with it turned off, stir the mixture. Next, bring it to the center of the pan, and with both your hands, hold it on the bottom of the pan and stick blend for just a couple of seconds. Turn it off and stir the soap batter, using the blender as a spoon.
- Repeat until the mixture thickens up to 'Trace.' This is when the batter leaves a distinguishable trail on the surface. The consistency and look of it will be like thin custard. It will quickly thicken up to a medium trace, which is more like pudding, which is actually better for this recipe. A medium trace will help suspend the oatmeal pieces in the soap. A thinner consistency may lead to them falling to the bottom of the mold.
- Stir in the essential oil, if you're using it. Mix thoroughly but quickly. Essential oil adds scent to your soap, but it's an optional ingredient and you can leave it out if you'd like unscented oatmeal soap.
- Still working quickly, pour the soap into the mold(s). Give it a tap to settle it and release air bubbles. If you wish, you can sprinkle rolled oats over the top. The color of the soap will be more golden right now than what it will end up.
- If you're using cavity molds or a slab mold, you can leave it on the counter with no other covering. In the case that you're using a loaf mold, I'd recommend that you either take steps to ensure it gels completely or doesn't gel at all. The honey and the oats in the soap will cause it to heat up a bit after its in the mold. It may form a partial gel in the middle if you leave it on the counter uninsulated.
- Once 48 hours have passed, take the soap out of the mold and cut it into bars using a soap cutter or kitchen knife. Cut the loaf from the bottom to avoid dragging the decorative oatmeal pieces on the top through the soap. Otherwise, they may leave drag marks as you drag them down the bars with your knife.
- Cure it for at least 28 days. Curing means leaving the bars spaced out on a protected surface out of direct sunlight and in an airy place. This allows the extra water content to fully evaporate out. Here are full instructions on how to cure soap.












Hi Tanya,
How long does it take for the soap to thicken?
Thank you!
Hi AnneMarie, it depends on the recipe and how you’re blending it. By hand, it takes much longer than when using an immersion blender. Soap with lots of hard oils (like coconut oil or cocoa butter) emusify and thicken (trace) quicker than those with lots of soft oils (olive oil). Some types of soft oils, such as extra virgin olive oil, traces slower than pomace olive oil. Typically, it should only take a few minutes for any of my recipes, if using an immersion blender.
Hi Tanya! Thank you so much for this recipe – I’m so excited to try it. I need to re-stock on olive oil for my soap making, and am a bit confused as to whether to buy Pomace or EVOO. It seems that certain recipes call for one or the other, and so maybe I should buy one of each? For this recipe, do you recommend pomace so that the bar maintains a white color? And use EVOO for bars we don’t mind yellowing? Thank you for the guidance and for all that you share!
Hi Anna, you can use whatever olive oil you would like to make soap recipes. Extra virgin olive oil (EVOO), pomace olive oil, “light colored” olive oil—it all has the same saponification value. However, soap recipes usually call for one or the other based on how the different types of olive oil look and react when making soap. For example, EVOO creates a much yellower color in soap bars at first. It also takes longer to come to trace. Pomace and light colored olive oils trace more quickly and won’t turn your bars yellow, so they’re better for when you’re using natural colorants that could be affected by the yellow-ness. In soapmaking, I also prefer using pomace olive oil for zero waste reasons. I feel EVOO is better reserved for food and that pomace is better for soap! Pomace is extracted from olive pulp at the very end of the process and though it has virtually the same properties in soap as EVOO, it’s not as pure or expensive.
Hi Tanya
Following my previous comment about adding sweet almond oil instead of castor oil…. I forgot to mention that it was a double batch
Thank you
Hi Tanya,
I absolutely love this recipe… My favourite soap so far.
This morning I started mixing my oils to make this batch of soap and realised that i poured sweet almond oil instead of castor oil (36g of it). I added the right amount of castor oil afterward, covered and put aside the bowl of oils ( i didn t add any lye in it).
My question is.. Can i still use the oils ? Would it makes the soaps too soft?
Thanks
Regards
Hi Samira, with the extra oil you have soap bars that have a 9% superfat. They’ll likely be very soft at first so to get them out of the mold easier, you might want to keep them in the mold for a week or put them in the freezer for half an hour to forty-five minutes. The soap will be soft to begin with but if you cure it for six weeks they’ll harden up and should be fine.
Hi, if I don’t have cocoa butter can I substitute it with extra Shea and/or coconut oil?
Hi Kathy, it’s not as simple as that. You can’t change a soap recipe (a chemical formulation) without adjusting the lye amount and understanding how the change will affect the qualities of the final soap. Here’s how to modify a soap recipe for more info.
Hi I made this recipe, and when I was done i sprinkled some oats on top for looks. And theve taken a greenish color? Have you had this? Abt ideas? Thank you!
Hi Hannah, that’s not happened for me before – is it a greenish color or mold? Were the oats coated in something or pure oats?
Hi Tanya,
I’m making this now and my oats have turned a bit orange/red in sections in the lye/water liquid. Do you know why? I did leave the metal spoon in there for awhile.
Thanks!
Alex
This sometimes happens and I think that it’s the sugars in the oats reacting with the lye. It’s nothing to worry about, though, and the final color shouldn’t be affected.
Thank you, it seems ok :)
I have another question, when I add dried flowers during trace they turn almost black once it’s ready to remove from the mould. Do you know why the petals don’t keep their colour? I added very small yellow flowers.
Hi Alex, you should head over and read my piece on using flowers and herbs in soap recipes. There are only a couple of flowers that won’t turn brown!
Wow I can’t wait to try making these, I’ve never made oatmeal soap. I wanted to thank you for always being so generous with your recipes and a good teacher by using such clear instructions! I’m a little afraid to try the frozen oatmilk method, but will go back and really review your article and maybe give it a whirl.
You’re most welcome, Mary! The end recipe doesn’t include frozen oat milk but the technique is described for anyone who would like to make soap that way.
THANKS FOR SHARING.