Advice on Building a Permanent Chicken Coop

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Advice on building a permanent chicken coop for backyard hens. Information on ventilation, roosting, nesting boxes, and creating your own

You can make a chicken coop out of almost any existing structure or, if you choose to, build one from scratch. The two most important things to take into consideration with either option are keeping them safe from predators and providing them with adequate ventilation. Building a coop from scratch can be very expensive, but there are ways to reuse what you have to save money. When we built ours, although we had to purchase the lumber and roofing new, we were able to use found items for the framing, windows, insulation, main door, and screen door. Needless to say, this helped cut the cost considerably.

If you’re thinking of building your own chicken coop, there are various other factors to take into consideration. They include size, flooring, nesting boxes, windows, roosts, and ventilation. A chicken run is necessary too if you don’t allow your hens to free-range during the day. Let’s go through the basic requirements of a permanent chicken coop.

Advice on building a permanent chicken coop for backyard hens

Chicken Coop Size

Unless your town limits the size of your flock, plan for expansion when building your coop.  This is much more cost-effective than needing to start over in a few years if you grow your flock. Although the actual size of your coop depends on many factors {i.e. size of the birds, whether they will be confined or free-range, etc.}, the general rule of thumb is 4-5 square feet per bird.

Chicken Coop Flooring

Commonly used flooring includes concrete, wood, or dirt. Concrete is the easiest for cleaning and dirt is more difficult. For us, we chose a wood floor and use pine shavings for litter. As long as we keep a couple of inches of shavings in the coop, clean-up is a breeze.

Advice on building a permanent chicken coop for backyard hens

 

Nesting Boxes

Hens prefer dark and safe areas for laying eggs. Nesting boxes are useful for the chicken keeper because they fit the hens’ needs so the eggs they lay are easier to find and collect. The eggs also remain clean, most of the time, and unbroken.

In general, you should plan on one nesting box for every four birds. I know this doesn’t seem like enough but trust me when I tell you that most days they line up to use the same box. We made our boxes 12″ wide x 12″ deep x 14″ high and this seems to be plenty of space even for the larger girls. We also slanted the roof to discourage roosting {and therefore pooping} on top of it. Our string of nesting boxes is positioned just under a window.

Advice on building a permanent chicken coop for backyard hens

Chicken Coop Windows

Proper ventilation is essential to chicken health, through all the seasons. They are susceptible to respiratory diseases and, therefore, fresh air moving through their coop is fundamental. It’s important to cover all window openings with a small {1/2 inch to 1/4 inch} galvanized mesh wire to prevent animal intruders.

Chicken coops need ventilation, even in winter. That’s why it’s imperative to have one of the window openings higher than the chickens perch. It helps provide draft-free ventilation in the colder months. In the warmer months, you will likely have all windows open to provide constant cross-ventilation and relief.

Build your own hen house with these tips on what is needed: roosts, ventilation, entries, nesting boxes, and more #chickens

A quick word about our “found” windows. When we bought our farmhouse there were treasures in the attic space of the barn including a few old windows. In order to make them work, my husband attached 2 hinges to the top of each window then attached that to the inside of the coop. He then used a string and cleat for opening the window and a barrel bolt latch for the window lock to prevent drafts in the winter months. We can open it as little or as much as we want by winding it on the cleat.

Perch and Roosts

Chickens prefer to sleep off the ground on a perch or roost and the best material to make this from is wood. A 1-3 inch thick, rounded piece of wood allows the birds to comfortably wrap their foot around and grip the perch with their toes. You can choose to create this from a wooden dowel, a tree branch, an old wooden ladder leaned against the wall and attached, or an old wooden drying rack. If using a stack system {stair-step style} make sure the wood pieces are 12 – 18 inches apart. Each chicken will require approximately 8-10 inches of perch room.

 

Chicken Coop Doors

If your coop can accommodate, you will want a people-size door that you can enter into the coop for egg collection, cleaning, caring for sick birds, etc. If you have an attached outdoor run, you will also want a small door that can remain open allowing the chickens access between the coop and the run.

We found, from experience with a previous coop, that it’s best for us to have the main door swing out {easier to enter a full and busy coop} and a small door to the outside run that opens from the outside. In the coop that came with the property, the small door opened inside the coop. In the morning, when the very impatient girls are stamping their feet waiting to get out, it’s extremely difficult to wade through them and open a door.

Advice on building a permanent chicken coop for backyard hens

Chicken Coop Latches

The reality is, predators bound and determined to enter your coop can undo many styles of latches. Different types of intruders have different capabilities therefore, it’s best to utilize two different lock systems on each door. For instance, we use a metal clip that requires squeezing to open and then another latch for each of our entries.

We also installed a “found” screen door onto the main entrance for spring through fall. It’s just a wooden frame door. My husband attached hinges and then used a spring so that it would close behind us. When we let the girls roam we can unhook the hinge and it stays open.

Advice on building a permanent chicken coop for backyard hens

Chicken Feed & Watering Stations

The feeders and waterers should be off the ground to prevent them from standing in or defecating in their food and water source. We’ve found that making a small platform for the waterer and hanging the feeders from the ceiling works well for us. Make sure that this station is away from the sleeping area to prevent a feeder full of chicken poop.

Advice on building a permanent chicken coop for backyard hens

Insulation & Heaters

Whether you insulate or heat your coop depends on the climate where you live. Access to electricity and what exactly you install in your coop are also factors. We have electricity as well as a solar panel on ours, so we have a light, flat panel heaters, and a heater for the waterer.

If you don’t have access to electricity but you live in an extreme climate of either heat or cold, it may be worth the effort to insulate. We insulated the floor, main door, and roof of our coop. You will also want to plan on the waterer not being in a drafty spot to help prevent it from freezing up in the winter {i.e. not in a direct line from the chicken access door to the outside if that will remain open in the winter}.

Advice on building a permanent chicken coop for backyard hens

Staci Ducharme resides with her handy husband Jay in Upstate New York on a small backyard farm named Cobble Hill. Their lives revolve around the critters on the farm, both indoors and out. They are working toward homesteading full-time and living a self-sufficient lifestyle.  You can read more about them, and Cobble Hill, at LifeAtCobbleHillFarm.com.

3 Comments

  1. Nice, You can add all product related to a chicken coop. This is a perfect chicken coop including door, feeder, waterer and much more.

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