Making your own natural blue dye
Growing and extracting blue pigment from Isatis tinctoria, known as Woad. Extracted from green leaves, this natural color is used in dyeing & soap making
Originating on the steppes of central Asia, Woad, also known by its Latin name Isatis Tinctoria, has been cultivated throughout Europe and the Mediterranean for millennia. Though its seeds have been found in French Neolithic sites, the first evidence of it being used in the dyeing of cloth comes from ancient Egypt. Later evidence of Woad dyes come from Roman, Viking and Medieval sources and sites.
If I ever meet anyone who isn’t familiar with this plant I tend to refer them to Braveheart which nearly everyone has seen. Once I mention Mel Gibson painting his face blue it tends to flip a switch for people, though there’s some debate over whether the Britons ever used Woad for this purpose.
Infusing woad leaves in water around 80 degrees Celcius
It’s hard to believe that these obviously green leaves contain such a vivid blue pigment and I wonder how the first people actually discovered it. So many of our past discoveries seem to be purely accidental so I don’t doubt that it was the same with Woad. However there are quite a few steps in the extraction process which makes me wonder how on earth someone could have stumbled upon it.
To extract Woad you need to first infuse leaves in nearly boiling water – preferably soft water such as rain water. After ten minutes the leaves are removed and squeezed of any juice before being discarded on the compost pile. The resulting liquid is strained and then soda ash is added which starts the process of extraction. Soda ash is a type of carbonic acid which can be sourced from the ashes of various types of plants – it’s also commonly used as a water softener. Through a process of aeration, settling, rinsing, filtering and drying you’re left with a natural blue pigment which can be stored and used indefinitely. For more information on the process please visit Woad.org.co.uk.
Recently I’ve come across a few people who have asked me about the use of woad in skincare and whether it is safe. My answer is that Woad is a non-hazardous natural product that is completely safe to handle and use externally. In fact the chemist who conducted the safety assessments for my products actually allows me to use more than ten times the amount that my soap actually contains.
Woad can also be taken internally, though I’ve never tried it myself. Used in both European and Chinese herbal medicine for at least two thousand years, compounds in Woad are said to combat certain types of cancer and anti-inflammatory diseases. Human studies from China have also shown that Woad has antimicrobial, antibacterial, antiviral and antiparastic qualities. 
There is also some misinformation on the internet on whether Woad will stain your skin. I can imagine the deduction work in this assumption: Since Woad is used to dye cloth wouldn’t it also colour anything else it comes into contact with? I’d like to assure you that Woad as a powdered pigment colours only the soap. It works in much the same way as mineral pigments and suspends as tiny granules only giving the illusion of dyeing the soap. To use woad as a dye, additional chemicals such as Alum and Spectralite are required to get it to ‘fix’ to the cloth or wool.
Another positive point on woad is that it breaks down much more easily and naturally than commerical oxides. This property makes this product a much more environmentally sensitive alternative to micas, oxides and other laboratory-created soap colouring agents.
In short, Woad is safe, won’t stain your skin and is a lovely and authentic natural colourant for use in soaps. I enjoy using it and growing it in my own garden and would encourage anyone else who is interested in Woad to try it out as well.
 Isatis Tinctoria