Daffodil petals naturally tint soap yellow
Recipe and instructions on how to use daffodil petals to naturally color soap yellow
While researching natural colors that can be used in soap making I came across an obscure reference to using daffodils. Though the bulbs and sap of these flowers are toxic, compounds derived from the plant are sometimes found in beauty products. This intrigued me enough to try using daffodils in handmade soap.
The outcome is a lovely buttery yellow soap that suits citrusy essential oils. The yellow lasts a long time and is just as bright and cheerful as the flowers themselves.
Real Daffodil flowers give this soap a buttery yellow colour
A word of caution
I’d advise caution in making daffodil soap. Especially if you were thinking to give it to loved ones or to sell to customers. There are a lot of soap making ingredients that can irritate the skin including some essential oils, benzoin, orris root, and cinnamon to name a few. Daffodils are still an unknown and so I’m sharing this recipe more out of interest and fun than anything else.
I’ve tested the soap on my skin without issues and have also conducted a neat test of daffodil flowers on my own skin to ensure safety. I’m sure enough of this recipe to share it with you but it’s important that you read about my skin patch test towards the end of this piece before you begin.
Daffodil Soap Recipe
454g / 1 lb batch — 7% superfat
all measurements are based on weight, not volume
62g / 2.2oz Sodium Hydroxide (Lye)
172g / 6oz Daffodil Infused Water – see method below
8 Daffodil flowers – yellow flower parts only
182g / 6.4oz Olive oil (or Olive oil Pomace)
114g / 4oz Coconut Oil
114g / 4oz Sustainably Sourced Palm oil
45g /1.6oz Shea Butter
7.5g / 0.25oz (2tsp) May Chang (Litsea cubeba) essential oil
5 drops Grapefruit Seed Extract (optional)
Special Equipment needed
Digital Thermometer
Digital Kitchen Scale
Stick (Immersion) Blender
The daffodil flowers are seeped and then pureed
Step 1: Make the Daffodil Infusion
Lye is mixed with the daffodil flower puree
Step 2: Mix your Lye Water
Wearing gloves and eye-protection and in an area with good ventilation mix your lye and daffodil infusion together. Pour all of the lye into the liquid and then mix with a stainless steel spoon until the lye crystals are dissolved. Now set the lye water aside to cool — I like to set the jug into a basin of water to speed up the process.
Step 3: Melt your Solid oils
Some oils are solid at room temperature and need to be melted. Just after you mix your lye water begin heating your solid oils in a pan on very low heat. They will fully liquefy in around ten minutes but it’s better to take the oils off the heat when there are a few small pieces of solid oil still floating around. They’ll melt with a few stirs of your spoon/spatula.
Step 4: Check the Lye Water
Take the lye-daffodil-water’s temperature with digital thermometer. You’re aiming for it to be within ten degrees of 120°F / 49°C. If it’s close to that take it out of the water so it stops cooling as quickly.
Step 5: Add your Liquid oils to the Melted oils
Add the the olive oil to the pan of melted oil and stir together well. Take the oil’s temperature — you’re aiming for it to be within 10 degrees (Fahrenheit) of the temperature of the lye water.
Step 6: Bring to ‘Trace’
When your temperatures are right, pour the lye-daffodil-water into the pan of oils. Next, place your stick blender into the pan at an angle to minimize the air getting into your soap batter.
Stir the contents of the pan gently, using the stick blender as a spoon. Then bring it into the centre of the pan and while it’s at a standstill, pulse for a couple of seconds. Then gently stir. Repeat this pulse then stir process again and again until the soap thickens up to a ‘Medium Trace’ — the thickness of warm custard.
Step 7: Add Extras
At medium trace add the six drops of grapefruit seed extract and the essential oil. Stir well but work quickly. The soap will beginning to thicken and set and you need it in the mould as quickly as possible.
Step 8: Pour into the Mould
Pour your steadily thickening daffodil soap into your mould, cover, and wrap with a towel. Leave for 24 hours before taking the soap out of the mould, cutting it into bars, and allowing to cure for four weeks before using. Curing means you leave it in a place that’s cool, airy, and out of direct sunlight. For full instructions on how to cure handmade soap head over here
Calcium oxalate in Daffodils
I’ve literally went out on a limb to share this recipe with you. The trouble with using daffodils in skincare is that they’re toxic if eaten and the sap is known to cause skin irritation. Both are reasons that I think no one has actually tried using daffodils to tint soap recently. I wanted to learn more and to investigate whether the yellow flower petals are as dangerous as the sap and the bulb.
All parts of the daffodil contain alkaloids that can cause stomach upset. These include lycorine, galantamine, and glycoside scilliaine. They can make you ill if you eat them but they can enter through your skin if it’s been irritated with another compound. Plants can be clever but dangerous things.
In daffodils this compound is called Calcium oxalate and you can find it in its sap. If you pick the stems and get sap on your skin it can cause something called ‘Daffodil Picker’s Rash’ — this is the effect of both the calcium oxalate and the alkaloids working together.
One patch of daffodil flowers was left on for 1 minute, the other for 5 minutes
Testing Daffodil flowers on my skin
As a gardener I know that parts of some plants can cause toxicity but that other parts can be edible. Rhubarb for one — the stems are a delicious springtime treat but if you eat the leaves you’re in trouble. So I scoured the internet looking for scientific references to calcium oxalate in the actual petals of daffodil flowers. I couldn’t find any that gave assurance.
Without any trusted sources, I decided to conduct a test. Not only did I try this soap recipe on my own skin before sharing it, but I also placed chopped daffodil flowers on the inside of my arm to see if I’d have a reaction.
I placed the daffodil flower petals in two spots on the sensitive skin of my left arm. One spot I left the flowers on for just a minute and the other spot I left it on for five minutes. I rinsed both spots off with water but no soap afterwards.
I had no reaction to having chopped daffodil petals on my skin
The results of my skin test
There was no irritation while the flowers were on my skin or indeed afterwards. Now what this says to me is that daffodil flowers don’t irritate MY skin. This could be different for people who have more sensitive skin so I’d advise that this recipe not be used for any commercially sold soap. I also recommend that you test your own reaction before using this recipe for your own use.
I’m not a scientist so cannot give you a definitive answer on the matter. Treat this recipe as an experiment and if you have any further information or experiences to give please share them as a comment.
More ideas for naturally coloring soap
If you enjoyed learning about using daffodils to naturally color soap, check out this list of dozens of other natural soap colorants. Everything from spinach, alkanet, to cochineal. There’s also a few links to recipes you can try out too.
Tanya, the instructions say to add 300 g of scalding water to the petals. I’m assuming that you mean by weight, so I am adding about 1 1/2 c of hot water, Right? I just want to make sure I’m doing it correctly.
Also, can I freeze the daffodil water if I don’t have time to make soap now, but will make it at a later date, say next month?
Have you tried using paperwhites for the scent? I’m considering an oil infusion of paperwhite blooms for a handsoap and can’t seem to find much info.
Can I add this to melt an pour base ? Thanks Rachel
Hi Rachel, I’d not recommend it. I imagine the excess water would create problems in the M&P setting properly. It could also ooze from the bars.
Hi Tanya,
Im keen in making my own soap. Just one thing, how long will the colour (from natural colouring) and the bar soap last?
If kept out of direct sunlight, it should last years (if you kept it that long!)
Can you freeze the infusion for later? I have daffodils blooming now but im not ready to make any new soap at the moment. Id hate to loose out on this beautiful color. thanks.
Interesting question and one I don’t have a definite answer for since I’ve never tried to freeze it. You can only try though!
Could I somehow use the daffodils to color melt and pour goat milk soap?
I use LOADS of Nescafe jars…haha 🙂
I just saw my kitchen and me making soaps, when I saw you using Nescafe jars eheheheh my favorite at home 🙂
The soap looks lovely. I was wondering the recipe calls for palm oil I have red palm oil, is it the same thing? I have yet to see any recipes specifically call for red palm, but my local health food store only has red. It's more a light orange color and thinking it would lighten up more if I used infused water like you call for. Just curious if you have advise or knowledge on this type of oil. I'm still pretty new to soap making and only making for self and my Mom atm. So even slightly off color isn't too much of a concern.
~Angie
Such a lovely colour Tanya…is this something we will be seeing in your shop??
Oh Tanya, our daffodil season is over. 🙁 I will remember this idea for next year. We have zillions of daffs! I have dyed sheep's wool with daffodils for a glorious yellow, but the soap idea is brilliant.
I have a good friend who dyes wool naturally so will have to mention this to her when I see her next! Hope you, your garden, and the goats are keeping well 🙂
Hola Tanya. Me gustó el método de coloración con las preciosas flores de narciso, pondré en practica. Gracias por compartir. Saludos!
I don't speak Spanish but think I understand what you're saying 🙂 You're very welcome and I'm glad you like the tutorial Lola!
What lovely soap.
Thanks Chrsty 🙂
Oh that looks so beautiful. I love daffodils, but unfortunatley they dont grow here in the tropics….
I'm sure there are loads of other golden flowers that you could use though! I'm not familiar with your local varieties but maybe you might have some ideas?