Essential Soap Making Equipment and Tools

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A comprehensive look at the basic soap making equipment you’ll need to make natural cold-process soap. This piece includes all the tools and equipment you’ll need and guidance on safety gear. You can use many of the items in your kitchen to make handmade soap!

Lovely Greens Natural Soapmaking Course

Making handmade soap involves quite a few steps and needs specific tools, but you really don’t need to spend a lot of money. Some items can be picked up second-hand, while others are lurking in your kitchen cupboards – you’re often able to use them for both food preparation and soap making!

Let me take you through the basic soap making equipment you need, along with explanations of what they do and why they’re important. Anything else not mentioned will help you make more intricate soap designs or bigger batches, but it isn’t necessary for the beginner soapmaker.

Basic Soap Making Equipment

In cold-process soapmaking, you use quite a few tools and materials. Each helps you along each step needed to transform your ingredients into soap bars. In making soap, you first precisely measure the ingredients by weight. Then, you make the lye solution, which creates heat and fumes, and begin melting any solid oils that are in the recipe.

The liquid oils, usually waiting in a bowl at the side, get stirred into the melted solid oils, and when everything is at the right temperature, you bring the ingredients to an emulsion, add soap additives, and pour the soap into molds. Having the right tools and soap making equipment will make the process a breeze.

An introduction to the basic soap making equipment and materials you'll need to make cold process soap. Includes money-saving tips! #soapmaking #soaprecipe #coldprocesssoap
This is the basic soap making equipment that I recommend.

Before we carry on, let’s chat about what’s already in your kitchen and if you can use it to make soap. First of all, yes, you can reuse kitchen items that are glass and stainless steel and carry on using them to make food recipes. Just ensure that they are perfectly clean to avoid cross-contamination.

If materials are plastic or silicone, they can absorb fragrances and should not be used in cooking. No materials used will absorb lye – it doesn’t work that way. Lye is a caustic and corrosive substance that can eat away at certain materials, but lye solution does not stick to materials. Even a residue of lye solution left on your tools will react with the air and transform into a powdery substance called soda ash.

Essential List of Soap Making Equipment

  • Kitchen scale
  • Stainless steel pot
  • Immersion blender
  • Digital thermometer
  • Heatproof jug(s)
  • Soap mold
  • Silicone spatula
  • Small sieve
  • Bowls
  • Measuring spoons
  • Goggles
  • Rubber gloves
  • Shop Soapmaking Equipment (UK options)

Kitchen Scales

The ingredients in soap recipes are measured in weight. So, the first piece of equipment you’ll need is a kitchen scale to measure them out. Digital scales are best, and they’re easy and inexpensive to come by in the UK/Europe. You can buy them in North America, too. You can use a jeweler’s scale for tiny measurements of essential oils and soap additives. In the recipes I share on this website, I do tiny measurements for you and instead give a measurement in teaspoons or Tablespoons. That way, you don’t have to get a tiny scale, as well. If you ever come across a soap recipe that lists the main ingredients in cups, do not use it, as it may not be safe.

A look at the soap making equipment you'll need to make natural cold-process soap. Includes safety precautions & tips on using items you already have #lovelygreens #soapmaking #diybeauty
Always measure soap recipe ingredients using a kitchen scale

Thermometer

Being able to accurately measure the temperature of your oils and lye solution is important in beginner soap making. Soaping at too low a temperature or too high of one can cause issues including false trace, cracking, glycerine rivers, and soap volcanoes. You can use an infrared thermometer or a digital kitchen thermometer to work out temperatures. Even glass thermometers will do, but they take longer to give a reading and can break.

Measure the temperature of soap with digital and infrared thermometers.

Most of the recipes I share will have you try to get the lye solution and oils around ten degrees of one another and around 100°F (38°C). This is to ensure that your overall batch will remain at a predictable and workable temperature while you make it. You will find soapmakers who work at room temperature or who say that temperatures don’t matter. However, in my experience, beginners have more success and fewer issues if they stick to this rule. Push the boundaries once you’ve successfully learned the basics!

Immersion Blenders for Soap Making

It’s possible to bring soap ingredients to an emulsion by stirring with a spoon. For some recipes, like my coconut oil soap recipe, this works a treat, and the mixture thickens relatively fast. Most soap recipes are not as cooperative, though, and a high-shear immersion blender speeds up the process. Otherwise, you can be stirring for an hour with nothing happening! Immersion blenders, also known as stick blenders, can be submerged in the ingredients, turned on, and force the oil, lye, and water in the pot to form a bond. This bond, called an emulsion, helps the oil and lye interact and kickstart the saponification process.

Immersion blenders help emulsify the soap ingredients.

The best type of immersion blender to use in soap making will be one that has holes in the head. These holes are helpful in allowing air to escape as you submerge it in the pot. You’ll learn the best technique for doing this later on in the series or in my online soapmaking course. Many immersion blenders are plastic, and that’s perfectly fine, but I’d reserve these for soapmaking alone. If you get a model that has a stainless steel head, then it’s perfectly fine to use in food recipes and soap making. As for blenders and food processors, do not use them to make soap. It’s not safe since there’s a chance of caustic soap batter being flung out and splattering on your skin, walls, and surfaces.

Pans and Containers

To make handcrafted soap, you’ll need to measure ingredients and place them into containers. You’ll also need to melt solid oils in order to get them into a liquid state. For this reason, you’ll need a few different types of containers to help you along the way. I highly recommend that all the containers you use are heat-proof and that any metal pans or bowls are stainless steel. Other metals, like aluminum, will react with lye and soap batter. Here’s a list of what you’ll need:

  • A stainless steel pot or saucepan for heating solid oils on the stove. If it has a spout on it, even better! Solid oils include coconut oil, cocoa butter, and shea butter, solid at room temperature and need gentle heat to liquefy them.
  • A heat-proof plastic jug for making the lye solution. Polypropylene (PP) plastic or stainless steel is best for this. Glass and Pyrex are also used, but I’d warn against this. I once had hot lye solution split open a glass jar!
  • Heat-proof plastic jugs for melting solid oils in the microwave. You only need this if you aren’t melting the oils on the stove. Polypropylene (PP), plastic, glass, and pyrex all work.
  • Ceramic, stainless steel, glass, pyrex, or plastic bowls for measuring soap additives and liquid oils, such as olive oil and castor oil.
  • Small containers for measuring additional ingredients like essential oils, botanicals, and powdered ingredients. Avoid plastic when measuring essential oils.

Soap Making Utensils

You’ll need various utensils to make soap, but my essentials are the ones shown above. Note that all are stainless steel and/or silicone.

How to make carrot soap using real carrots: sieve the carrot lye solution as you pour it into the oils
Sieves are useful for catching solids that you don’t want in your soap bars.
  • Two silicone spatulas for stirring and scraping and for mixing the lye solution.
  • Stainless steel spoon for stirring liquid oils (if you don’t have silicone spatulas)
  • Large stainless steel spoon for mixing the lye solution (if you don’t have silicone spatulas)
  • A plastic or stainless steel sieve for pouring the lye solution and soap additives through and into your oils. It catches solid substances that you don’t want in your soap.
  • Stainless steel measuring spoons for measuring small quantities of soap additives.

Making Soap Safety

Soapmaking is a form of chemistry that requires lye. In cold-process soapmaking, that lye is sodium hydroxide, and it comes in a granular form. When you mix it with water to create the lye solution, there’s a lot of heat and steam, which requires that you work in a well-ventilated place. The containers used must be heat-proof, and you must protect your skin, eyes, and airways. I have much more soapmaking safety in another piece, but the main pieces of PPE you’ll need are listed below.

Safety Goggles & Gloves

One aspect of making soap safely is wearing the right clothes and protecting your hands and eyes. Prepare yourself by wearing long sleeves, sensible close-toed shoes, long trousers or a skirt, an apron, goggles, and rubber, nitrile, or latex gloves. I’d also recommend pulling your hair back and wearing clothes you don’t mind ruining. Oil splatters can be a real pain to wash out!

Protect hands, eyes, and skin with appropriate clothing and safety gear.

Eye protection is a soapmaking topic that shouldn’t be taken lightly. Always wear goggles while handling anything that is or contains ley. If you wear glasses, they won’t protect you from splatters from the side. Use safety goggles, which will fit right over your glasses. They’re inexpensive, and you can buy them online or sometimes in hardware shops. If you don’t wear glasses, the most comfortable goggles to use are the onion goggles you can purchase in kitchen shops.

Respirator Mask

Another safety item you might want to consider wearing is a respirator mask. Hot lye solution lets off some pretty potent vapors, and you don’t want to breathe them in. The bigger the batch of lye solution, the more dangerous these vapors can be to your lungs. For small soap recipes, like the ones I share on this website and in my soap making course, I don’t wear a respirator. Instead, I mix the lye solution next to an open window or outdoors. For larger batches, I would wear one, though. It’s safer for your lungs and health.

Soap Molds

Once you’ve brought soap ingredients to an emulsion or trace, you pour the soap batter into molds. The mixture will solidify in them, and after one to two days, you can remove the soap to cure. Soap molds come in three different types and in a variety of materials. The main types are cavity molds, which are used for creating individual bars, loaf molds, and slab molds. My favorite soap mold material is silicone since these molds are easy to pop soap out of and don’t require prepping. You’ll see all sorts of molds, though, with the traditional one being a wooden box lined with wax paper.

This six-bar silicone mold is perfect for making 1-lb soap recipes.

The recipes that I introduce to you in the next piece, Easy Soap Recipes, are all 1lb (454 g) soap recipes. For this size, there are several mold options open to you, including cavity molds and loaf molds. I recommend using a six-bar silicone mold to make them, but this small silicone loaf mold works well, too. I use both regularly, and they both fit 1-lb batches perfectly. The added benefit of silicone molds is that they last indefinitely and can be easy to get your soap out of. When it comes to choosing a loaf style vs. cavities, it’s up to you. The loaf style is easier to insulate if you wish to gel your soap

Simple and natural cold process soap recipe. Uses four eco-friendly oils and includes easy to understand soap making instructions #soaprecipe #coldprocesssoap #soapmaking
Milk cartons are great for using molds for small batches of soap

Alternatively, you can use a drinks carton to fashion another type of recycled mold. With these, you can either just open up the top and pour in to create a vertical block of soap or lay the carton on its side and cut an opening to pour the soap in. That way, you’re able to decorate the tops of the bars if you wish. When it comes time to remove the soap from the mold, just tear the paper away and discard it.

You can cut soap into bars using a kitchen knife and cutting board.

Soap Cutting

If you opt to use a loaf or slab mold, you’ll also need to cut the soap block into individual bars before curing. I recommend doing this two days after making soap for most recipes. Though there are hand-held soap cutters and soap loaf cutters available, you can use a stainless steel kitchen knife and cutting board for this. At two days, saponification is almost entirely complete, and any residue on wooden cutting boards is simply soap.

The Natural Soapmaking for Beginners Series

The next piece in this series is an introduction to three simple soap recipes. It then carries on with the full step-by-step cold process soap-making method:

  1. Introduction to Soap Making
  2. Natural Soap Ingredients
  3. Soap Making Equipment
  4. Soap Making Safety
  5. Easy Soap Recipes
  6. How to Make Cold Process Soap
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46 Comments

  1. Chemutai Joyce says:

    Thank you so much,may almighty God bless you ,you have bless me by letting me know how to make a soap ,supper n lovely.

  2. Kabahizi Gabriel says:

    How much can I buy lye

  3. Mary Obbisa Ojiambo says:

    Iam very much excited. I real that this is the best thing to do. How can get to be trained about bar soap making without machines at home.

  4. Chanice Gentles says:

    Would love to Learn how to make soap

  5. Hi, what size bowls/saucepan do you use please?

    1. It depends on the size of the soap batch. You need containers that will fit the amount of ingredients in a recipe.

  6. Hello Tanya,
    Thank you for your blog. I’ve made a few batches now, and my results are getting better with each batch.

    I am having an issue:

    After trace, I am quickly pouring the soap solution into its molds. But by the time I get to the molds, the soap has hardened quickly making it difficult to get a smooth pour. Should I try some additional water in the lye solution to slow down the hardening process a little?

    Thank you!

    1. Yes, that’s right. Most of my recipes are for small batches that can be quickly poured at once. I water-discount the recipes so that it speeds up trace and helps mitigate issues with soda ash. If you want a more fluid batter that doesn’t harden as quickly then you can use up to 3x the amount of lye by weight as your full water amount. Use this amount when you mix the lye solution and your soap batter will be more slow moving.

  7. Christie Thomas says:

    This is so helpful! If I want to make two or three small batches of soap in one go, do I need to was and clean all the equipment in between each batch? Or can I just double or triple the recipe to be able to fill all my molds?

    1. No need to wash and clean all of the equipment between batches if the soap is for personal use :)

  8. Hi Tanya, I’m wondering if I can use an enamel pan instead of a stainless steel one? It’s just that stainless steel pans are very expensive here, in Bulgaria, and I can’t really afford one to be kept just for soap making. Thank you.

    1. Sodium hydroxide, lye, will erode enamel pans ruining them. It’s best to look for a steel pan, maybe second-hand?

    2. Hi Caroline

      I have used several enamel pans when making my soaps, lotions and creams and have had no problems.

      Victoria

  9. Paula Campbell says:

    Tanya,
    Love your blog, and I feel like you’re providing the much needed hand-holding as I prepare to make my first batch of soap. That being said, it occurs to me that while I’ll keep all of my soap making equipment separate from my cooking supplies, is it safe to clean up afterword using my kitchen sink?
    Thanks,
    Paula

    1. Hi Paula and yes you can use your kitchen sink. If you’re worried about residual lye, also called caustic soda, it’s regularly poured down drains to unblock pipes. The bigger issue is oils and their potential to block pipes and get into the water system. I like to wipe as much of the residue off my equipment first with paper towels. A wash in hot soapy water does the rest.

  10. Thank you Tanya for the detailed post. First time soaper here. Need a clarification regarding utensils. Can the container for measuring water and adding lye be stainless steel? Will it become too hot to handle? I was planning to use no plastic or glass, and all stainless steel equipment plus silicone spatula. Thanks in

  11. Tiffany Scarlett says:

    Making soap always scared me, but something told me that I have to give it a shot, and your tutorials are so great! Can’t wait to try!
    I have a few things at home (stainless steel bowls, immersion blender, etc), but I use them for foods. If using food grade lye, can I use these utensils to prepare food with afterwards?

    1. I don’t think there is any scientific evidence to say that you cannot. Personally, I keep my soap making equipment separate — especially anything that comes into contact with lye.

      1. Tiffany Scarlett says:

        Thanks. So for that reason alone, do I need to use food grade lye?

        1. Using food grade lye has nothing to do with the equipment you use or what else it’s used for. You use food grade lye to assure that it’s 99.9% Sodium hydroxide. Other lyes (like ones made for drain cleaners) may have additional ingredients in them that you don’t want in your soap.

  12. When getting a hand blender would it work fine with a whisk at the end?

    1. I don’t think I understand your question Cameron. Are you asking about using a hand blender (instead of a stick blender) and then a manual whisk at the end? In any case I suggest using a stick blender — hand blenders can put too much air into your soap batter.

  13. I read somewhere that you could not use stainless steel with soap making because it would change the chemistry of the soap, so doesn’t that disallow using the immersion blender? Actually I sure hope not as I am really tired of stirring and want to use a blender but cannot find one that is all plastic or wood. Help!

    1. Stainless steel is ideal for making handmade soap — not sure what you read but it’s incorrect.

  14. Donna Lobina says:

    Really want to make soap, confused on the measurement of oils and water?

  15. please what quantity of palm oil and sodium hydroxide to make the yellow soap at the top

  16. Hi, I watched a video on youtube that showed to pour a small amount of soap on the bottom of the mould and let it sit all night . Then pour the rest of the different color soap in order to get a two part (colored) soap bar. Well, I did that and made the soap. When I went to unmould and cut it the bottom part fell off. I am trying to get a really straight line inbetween colors. How long should I wait to get the bottom color hard enough to pour the next layer? Also, I get ash on the top of the last layer. Should I cover with blankets while waiting on the present layer to harden?

    1. Hi Laurie,

      All you need to wait in between layers is about 5-10 minutes then gently spoon the next layer on and settle the layer by gently shaking the mould.

      Soda Ash in my experience happens for a number of reasons but for me it’s because the trace is very thin and the soap wasn’t insulated, and/or the recipe had a lot of water. Soda ash is caused by carbon dioxide in the air reacting with unsaponified lye. To prevent it from happening reduce your water content by 10%, mix your soap into a thick trace before pouring, and insulate your batches.

  17. Thanks for the great post, I would have liked to come by it when I got started!

    There are, however, a few comments I’d like to make. The first is that I wouldn’t recommend using glass or Pyrex for the lye solution. The very strong base can etch the glass microscopically and cause it to break unexpectedly.

    The second thing is, I’d highly recommend having an open bottle of water and some vinegar on hand, especially while dealing with the lye solution at first, should any spills occur. Lye spills on skin or counters should be rinsed abundantly with water, then neutralised with vinegar. (The latter reaction is exothermic, so it shouldn’t be the first step!)

    Which brings me to the third comment—I was never too keen on buying another stick blender just for making soap, one of the points of making soap for me being saving money, so I do use the same stick blender for food and for soap. The stick is made of stainless steel, not plastic. I understand some people might cringe at the idea, and if it’s possible I still think separate equipment is best, but as long as the lye is neutralised with plenty of vinegar and the blender is washed thoroughly, there should be no problem. After all, there is nothing toxic about lye—it’s just extremely corrosive. :P

  18. Thank you and apperiacted your information.
    This is very helpful for me and hope i can find the ingredients here -Thailand.

  19. I know this post is a little old so I apologize, I just had a question. If you use food grade lye, is it safe to use the immersion blender on food? Or is that still a no-no and I have to buy another one? Thanks so much for this tutorial! I can’t wait to try my hand in soap making!!!

    1. Good question! Personally I’d avoid it and buy a separate immersion blender. Small amounts of lye is used in some food recipes (pretzels for example) but the amounts you use in soaping is similar to what is used in drain cleaners. I don’t have the science to prove that lye could contaminate but at the same time I wouldn’t use anything that touched drain cleaner to serve or prepare food in either.

  20. Do you recommend any food grade lye or does it not really matter?

    1. Food grade is perfect (did you know lye is used in making Pretzels?) but you can use industrial grade as well provided that it is pure and does not contain any additives.

  21. Is it safe to use stainless steal pan/utensils or immersion blender after making a soap in the kitchen on the food?

  22. Thank you for this post Tanya! I'm looking forward to your upcoming soap recipes and instructions!

  23. Anonymous says:

    Thanks for the tips Tanya, you have a knack for making such complicated diy stuff look easy! Speaking of which, on your diy-travels have you ever learnt how to extract essential oils from ordinary garden plants (e.g. lavender or rose oil) – I would love to learn how that's done… hint, hint!

    1. To get pure essential oils you have to have a distilling kit set up…HOWEVER…you are able to make infused oils with some flowers and herbs. Thanks for the hint ;)

  24. An interesting and inspiring blog. So lovely. You give me an interesting tutorial. Thank you for sharing. m
    Maybe I'm your newest follower.
    Endah
    Indonesia

  25. Excellent tutorial! Can't wait to check out the other blog posts. Thank you so much for linking back to Bramble Berry. =)