How Much Essential Oil to Add to Soap Recipes + Usage Rates
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Knowing how much essential oil to use in soap recipes can be confusing, and you’ll hear all kinds of advice. Let me help by giving you the facts and recommendations you can trust. Read on for an introduction to essential oils, their allergens, and their maximum usage rates. I’ve also included an A-Z list of common essential oils and how much to use in soap recipes.
You only need three ingredients to make handmade soap from scratch—oils/fats, lye, and water. If you use just these, you’ll end up with gentle soap bars that are white to cream-colored and ideal for those with allergies or sensitive skin. However, most soap isn’t made this way because soap with interesting colors, textures, and scents is more popular. To create them, we mix in a wide array of soap additives.
Fragrance oils (FO) and essential oils (EO) are the most commonly used, and their primary purpose is to add scent. Stir them in, and they can make your soap smell like anything from chocolate cake to sweet English lavender. They’re also relatively easy to use in all types of soap making, from cold and hot process to melt-and-pour and liquid soap. But how much do you use? How much is too little or too much? I’ll touch upon fragrance oil usage rates, but this piece will mainly focus on how much essential oil to use in soap recipes.
What are Essential Oils?
Essential oils are aromatic volatile oils that we can extract from some, but not all, plants. They’re natural and vegan-friendly, and we can even choose to use essential oils from organically grown herbs, trees, and flowers. My favorite essential oil is rose geranium, which has a rosy scent but isn’t as expensive as rose essential oil. I’m also a big fan of neroli.
Ranging in color from clear, yellow, orange, dark brown, and blue, essential oils are liquid plant chemicals. They’re completely different from the vegetable oils in our kitchen cupboards, and though they are natural, essential oils are not safe to ingest or to use undiluted. Their primary purpose is in the fragrance and aromatherapy industry, but we can also use them to scent handmade soap. However, you need to stick to their usage rates to ensure skin safety—it ranges from about 5% to less than 1%, depending on the type.
Essential Oil Soap Recipes
Essential oils are volatile, and they can evaporate if they get too hot. That’s why you add them to hot process soap after the cook. In cold process soap, you can stir them into the oil (or soap batter) at any time after the oils are melted and cooled. They do not saponify (turn to soap) in the presence of lye because they are not made of fatty acids. That means you don’t have to wait until the trace stage to stir them in. Lye is present in cold process soap for up to 48 hours after you make it, anyway.
I like to add essential oils that cause acceleration (speedier thickening) before stirring or immersion blending. That way, I can see immediately if the batter will accelerate and can control it better. However, after trace or emulsion is reached is the traditional time to add essential oils to soap batter. I describe stirring it in at that point in most of my essential oil soap recipes. Here are some for you to try:
Fragrance Oil Usage Rate
Fragrance oils are artificial perfumes created from both naturally occurring and synthetic compounds. They come in a much wider range of scents, but besides their allergen declarations (more on that later), you don’t know what else is in them. Their ingredients can be kept undeclared, and on end products, the use of synthetic fragrance is often listed as ‘parfum.’
Many fragrance oils are not skin-safe and are strictly for diffusers and candles. This should be clear when you purchase it, but be vigilant and read through the manufacturer’s instructions and documentation. It will include the product’s safe usage rate for soapmaking and other skincare products. If you can’t find the information on the website, contact the manufacturer.
That aside, the usual maximum usage rate for skin-safe fragrance oils is 5-6% of the weight of the soap recipe (not including the water). However, always check the usage rate on the fragrance’s IFRA certificate. Also, know you don’t have to use the maximum amount. Even if the document says you can use it at 10% in soap, 5% in cold process or hot process soap will be more than plenty. 3% is usually the maximum amount you can use in melt-and-pour soap (soap base). I also prefer 3% for cold and hot process soap.
How Essential Oils Are Made
Unlike fragrance oils, essential oils are directly extracted from plant leaves, fruit, flowers, bark, wood, and roots. Some, like citrus essential oils, are cold pressed from the fresh fruit peel. Others require solvent (hexane) or CO2 extraction. However, most are produced through distillation, which involves either passing steam through plant material or boiling it in water and capturing the steam. Either way, when the steam is cooled, it separates into concentrated essential oil and hydrosol. Hydrosol is aromatic plant-scented water, whereas essential oils contain no water and are potent concentrations of volatile oils.
To make essential oil, you need a lot of plant material. One of the least expensive types, lavender essential oil (Lavandula angustifolia), requires three pounds (1.36 kg) of lavender flowers to make a small 0.5 fl oz (15 ml) bottle. However, to make just 0.5 fl oz (15 ml) of rose otto essential oil, you need over 86 lbs (39 kg) of roses—it’s about a 1:3000 ratio of plant material to essential oil. That’s why the real deal is so expensive.
Essential Oil Allergens
Each essential oil is a complex cocktail of aromatic essences. It’s true that they’re natural, smell beautiful, and have therapeutic properties, but they are chemicals, nonetheless. The main types contained in essential oil include monoterpenes, bicyclic monoterpenoids, acyclic monoterpenoids, cyclic monoterpenoids, alcoholic monoterpenoids, sesquiterpenes, and sesquiterpenoids.
Each essential oil includes many individual plant chemicals in these categories, some being known allergens. That includes compounds such as coumarin, linalool, citral, and dozens more. Essential oil usage rates are mainly given to avoid having too much of any known allergen. Stay under the threshold, and your essential oil soap will be safe for most people’s skin.
However, if you use too little essential oil in your soap batch, you might not get a strong fragrance. Measuring essential oil by drops works for diffusers and small batches of skincare recipes but not for soap. We use a lot more in soap recipes—so much that we weigh it out like the other ingredients.
Can You Put Too Much Essential Oil in Soap?
So what happens if you make soap and use more essential oil than is recommended? It depends on the type(s) and how much you’ve used. Too much fragrance can contribute to aesthetic issues with finished soap. However, the biggest concern is that using soap with high levels of allergens could cause reactions, including sneezing, rashes, hives, blistering, swelling of the eyes and face, and hypersensitivity. Essential oils (and fragrance oils) have maximum usage rates to ensure public safety.
There are also essential oils that can give some people headaches or intense feelings of unease, especially in strong concentrations. Lavender essential oil does this for some people, especially Lavandin Lavandula x intermedia, which is a hybrid lavender plant containing more camphor. Smelling lemongrass and cinnamon essential oil from the bottle gives me immediate headaches. It’s no wonder that they’re both restricted.
Labeling Essential Oil Allergens
When selling soap, known allergens within the essential oils should be listed on the soap packaging and/or information sheet. This is mandatory in the UK, EU, Canada, New Zealand, India, and South Korea if the allergen is present in the final soap at a concentration of 0.01% or more. This is not currently mandatory in the USA, but it will likely start in or after 2026. However, it’s good practice to do it anyway to keep your customers safe.
There are currently 26 established allergens, but the EU has updated its legislation to include a further 56. That now means that soapmakers in Europe and the UK must be aware of eighty-two potential allergens! All soap packaging in the EU and UK must list any of these allergens by July 2026.
How Much Essential Oil to Use in Soap Recipes
To put all of this in plain English, all essential oils contain compounds that are known allergens. Use too much, and your soap can be dangerous to use. Even when used in acceptable amounts, allergens in essential oils can still cause sensitive people to sneeze or get rashes from washing with soap. That’s why soap should be clearly labeled to show if allergens are present.
However, how much essential oil should you use in soap recipes to keep within safe limits? Depending on the source, essential oil usage rates in soap can vary from less than 1% to 5%. It depends on the exact essential oil and the source. Some sources of usage rate recommendations are more reliable or official than others.
Different Guidelines on Essential Oil Usage Rates
All manufacturers of essential oils and fragrance oils intended as skincare ingredients provide safety documents for their products. These include the [Material] Safety Data Sheet (MSDS or SDS) and the IFRA [Conformity] Statement. Both include technical and ingredient information, but the IFRA document contains the maximum usage rate for different categories of skincare and cosmetics.
Some manufacturers, like DoTerra, provide details on usage rates for their specific products. However, essential oils from MLMs or high-end essential oil producers are rarely used in soap recipes. They’re far too expensive, and it would be against their trademark for you to make soap with their product and market it as such. Their guidelines are not official guidelines, though. Another non-official (but excellent!) resource on essential oil safety and usage rates is the Tisserand & Young book.
There could be another official layer of guidance, too. Each country (or state) may have different rules and regulations on how much essential oil you can use in commercial soap. Or at least how allergens are declared. Often, these guidelines are based on IFRA usage rates, though.
IFRA Guidelines on Usage Rates
IFRA stands for International Fragrance Association and is a global regulatory body that creates guidelines to ensure that fragrances and essential oils are used at safe levels in skincare. All essential oils intended for skincare formulations will have IFRA guidelines available as a document. Sometimes, it’s downloadable from the sales page or website, and sometimes, you must ask for it to be emailed.
The IFRA document is not an end-all statement of how much of an essential oil you should use in your soap recipe. All it tells you is the maximum amount you can use before it becomes unsafe. Look for the usage rate for class 9 (or 9a) on the sheet to see the usage rate for soap.
Also, note that there’s no standard maximum usage rate for types of essential oil. The usage rates are on a product-by-product basis since there can be variations in manufacture and quality. One producer of lavender essential oil may declare that you can use it up to 5% of the weight of a soap recipe. Another may say 100%. Clearly, you cannot make a soap that’s 100% lavender essential oil. However, with that particular essential oil product, you have more flexibility in how much you choose to use.
Governmental Essential Oil Usage Rates
In the UK, cosmetic regulation is very much influenced by the European Union. Commercially-made soap (even at the farmers market) must comply with the UK Cosmetic Regulation (Schedule 34 of the Product Safety and Metrology Statutory Instrument 2019). It mirrors EU Cosmetic Products Regulations. Both are wordy documents but deal mainly with restricting certain substances and limiting allergen loads.
However, all soap makers in the UK and EU who sell to the public must apply for a Cosmetic Product Safety Report (CPSR) for every product they sell. They are also called safety assessments. You submit your formula for evaluation using IFRA guidelines for essential oil inclusion. Then, a cosmetic chemist who completes the report will evaluate the formula and approve or request edits. You get a document at the end that certifies an exact formula with essential oil usage rates.
USA Regulations for Essential Oils
Other countries do not require soap formulas to be approved to make it for public use. For example, the United States. It regulates commercial soap production through the FDA (US Food and Drug Administration), but the regulations aren’t as stringent as those in the EU.
The FDA recognizes three categories of soap (true soap, cosmetic, medicinal) with different rules and labeling requirements. There are a few banned ingredients, but mainly, responsibility for good practices, including using safe essential oil usage rates, is up to the soapmaker.
Responsible soapmakers adhere to IFRA maximum usage rates despite not having to have recipes certified. However, the FDA may still intervene if you’ve been reported for making unsafe soap. This production situation is scheduled to tighten up with the introduction of this new legislation. Whether or not it happens with the current Administration is anyone’s guess, though!
Simple Essential Oil Usage Rates
The average home soapmaker might be overwhelmed by this talk of safety assessments and laws. Especially if you only want to make soap for personal use. That’s why I compiled a generalized list of essential oil usage rates for soap recipes. It includes the most common essential oils we use in soapmaking and conservative usage rates in weight and teaspoons. It makes measuring essential oils for soap recipes simple.
If you have an essential oil that doesn’t appear on the list, it may be because it’s one that we don’t use in soap. In some cases, because the safe usage rate is so low, it either doesn’t make sense to use it (no scent comes through), or the chance of allergic reactions is high. That’s the case with many spice oils, such as clove, cinnamon, and nutmeg. They can still be used in soapmaking, but you must be careful and never exceed their tiny usage rates.
Other essential oils aren’t used because they’re unsafe or can be toxic for some people. For example, pennyroyal essential oil is hazardous for pregnant women. In fact, all essential oils should be avoided if you are pregnant.
Are Teaspoon Measurements Accurate?
In the usage rate list, I’ve included measurements for essential oils in terms of both weight and volume. For large batches of soap, it’s more accurate to weigh essential oils to the exact weight required. However, this can be difficult when making small batches because many kitchen scales don’t give accurate readings for small amounts. That’s why it’s more common to use volume measurements—teaspoons—for measuring essential oil for small soap recipes.
That’s certainly the case with my soap recipes, and you’ll notice that essential oils are always given in teaspoons. I’ve calculated the amounts for them and the usage rates below based on weight—I have a professional and highly accurate electronic scale. When a weight amount for an essential oil hasn’t completely filled a teaspoon amount or has slightly exceeded it, I’ve rounded it down.
Creating an Essential Oil Blend
Each essential oil listed below comes with a list of other essential oils that it blends well with. For example, lavender and geranium smell lovely together, as do peppermint and lemon. Creating blends can be a complex (yet fun!) business. We mix essential oils together to create balance, harmony, and a beautiful fragrance. Each essential oil falls into the category of high, middle, or low notes. We usually smell the high note first and the low note last. Middle notes are usually balanced enough to be used on their own as a fragrance.
This general outline will help you get the amounts right in your blends. It’s not set in stone, but it is a good guideline. You don’t have to use all the notes, either, but it’s a good idea to always use a middle note. The maximum amount of essential oils to aim for in a soap recipe is 3% of the main soap-making oils by weight. Some essential oils in the list must be used at much less than this, so please be mindful.
Choosing Essential Oils for Blends
- 20-30% as Top Notes
- 50-70% as Middle Notes
- 20-30% as Base Notes
A-Z List of Essential Oils and their Usage Rates in Soap Recipes
This list includes many of the most commonly used essential oils for soap making and their conservative maximum usage rates. Though you will, in many cases, find that IFRA documents allow higher usage rates, these percentages are from a comprehensive CPSR assessment that I have from before Brexit. I still work with these figures for my business to this day. They’re good, safe, and strong enough to give a lovely scent.
In the list, each essential oil is given a usage rate in percentage. For example, 3% means that the essential oil can be used at up to 3% of the soap recipe by weight (excluding the water). I’ve also included weight (ounce and gram) and volume (tsp) measurements PPO (Per Pound of Oil). This refers to the maximum amount of essential oil to use for every pound (16 oz or 454 g) of oil in the soap recipe you’re using. Oil being coconut oil, shea butter, olive oil, etc.
For example, 3 tsp PPO would translate into six teaspoons (maximum) of essential oil if you make a two-pound batch of soap. This list also includes other essential oils that work well with each one in blends.
Amyris Amyris balsamifera
West Indian Rosewood has a soft, resinous aroma similar to Benzoin. It’s used as an alternative to Sandalwood and helps to ‘fix’ soap scents.
Max usage rate: 3% – equates to 0.48 oz / 13.6 g / 2.75 tsp PPO*
Blends with: Cedarwood, Geranium, Lavender, Rose, Sandalwood
Note: Base
Bergamot Citrus bergamia
A clean and refreshing citrus scent that’s used not only in soap making but also in Earl Grey Tea. One of the few top-note essential oils that can be used on its own in soap making.
Max usage rate: 3% – equates to 0.48 oz / 13.6 g / 3 tsp PPO*
Blends with: Citronella, Eucalyptus, Geranium, Neroli, Palmarosa, Ylang Ylang
Note: Top
Black Pepper Piper nigrum
A warm and peppery scent that should be used sparingly. Permitted usage rates are higher than most people will enjoy as a soap scent. Start with just a few drops and blend with another essential oil(s).
Max usage rate: 3% – equates to 0.48 oz / 13.6 g / 3 tsp PPO*
Blends with: Basil, Bergamot, Cedarwood, Clary Sage, Lavender, Peppermint
Note: Middle to top
Cardamom Elettaria cardamomum
A sweet and spicy essential oil fragrance that works best in a blend. Works well with most other oils but especially citrus, spice, and woodsy scents.
Max usage rate: 3% – equates to 0.48 oz / 13.6 g / 3 tsp PPO*
Blends with: Bergamot, Cedarwood, Cinnamon, Orange, Ylang Ylang
Note: Middle
Cedarwood Cedrus atlantica
A warm and woodsy cedar aroma that blends well with floral, spice, and wood oils.
Max usage rate: 3% – equates to 0.48 oz / 13.6 g / 3 tsp PPO*
Blends with: Bergamot, Juniper, Lavender, Rose, Rosemary, Rosewood
Note: Base
Chamomile (German) Matricaria Recutita
A strong and floral-herbal essential oil made from German chamomile flowers. It’s less apple-scented than Roman chamomile and is blue in color which is why it’s sometimes called blue chamomile. This is an expensive essential oil mainly used for leave-on skincare such as chamomile skin cream.
Max usage rate: 3% – equates to 0.48 oz / 13.6 g / 3 tsp PPO*
Blends with: Bergamot, Cardamom, Cedarwood, Clary Sage, Ginger, Lavender, Lemon, Rose, Tea Tree, Ylang Ylang
Note: Middle
Chamomile (Roman) Anthemis nobilis
Roman chamomile is sweet, fruity, and floral and blends especially well with other floral and citrus oils. It has a scent that’s reminiscent of apples.
Max usage rate: 3% – equates to 0.48 oz / 13.6 g / 3 tsp PPO*
Blends with: Bergamot, Cedarwood, Geranium, Lavender, Lemon, Jasmine, Mandarin, Orange, Palmarosa, Rose, Sandalwood, Vetiver
Note: Middle
Citronella Cymbopogon nardus
A fresh and citrusy scent similar to but more powerful than lemongrass. It holds its fragrance well in soap recipes and blends with herbal and citrus oils. This oil is often used in bug-repellent formulations.
Max usage rate: 3% – equates to 0.48 oz / 13.6 g / 3 tsp PPO*
Blends with: Basil, Bergamot, Cedarwood, Eucalyptus, Lemongrass, Lavender, Melissa, Rosemary, Scots Pine,Tea Tree
Note: Top
Clary Sage Salvia sclarea
A soft, herbaceous, and earthy scent that has the slightest sweetness. It’s like an earthier lavender scent and does better in blends than on its own. It’s especially nice blended with floral, woodsy, and citrus scents.
Max usage rate: 3% – equates to 0.48 oz / 13.6 g / 3 tsp PPO*
Blends with: Cedarwood, Chamomile, Fennel, Geranium, Jasmine, Lavender, Lemon, Lime, Neroli, Orange, Rose, Sandalwood, Vetiver, Ylang Ylang
Note: Middle
Eucalyptus Eucalyptus globulus
Sharp and powerful resinous scent associated with medicinal products. Does well in blends, especially with citrusy oil.
Max usage rate: 3% – equates to 0.48 oz / 13.6 g / 3 tsp PPO*
Blends with: Citronella, Juniper, Lavender, Lemon, Lemongrass, May Chang, Scots Pine, Spearmint
Note: Top
Fennel (Sweet) Foeniculum vulgare
A sweet, licorice-scented oil that is best used in blends due to its low usage rate.
Max usage rate: 1% – equates to 0.16 oz / 4.54 g / 1 tsp PPO*
Blends with: Clary Sage, Geranium, Lavender, Lemon, Melissa, Rose, Rosemary, Sandalwood
Note: Middle to top
Geranium Pelargonium graveolens
Floral, earthy, and deep, geranium, often called rose geranium, is one of the most beloved essential oils. It’s often used to instead of rose essential oil in soap recipes as it’s less expensive. Use on its own or in blends.
Max usage rate: 3% – equates to 0.48 oz / 13.6 g / 3 tsp PPO*
Blends with: Bergamot, Cedarwood, Clary Sage, Grapefruit, Jasmine, Lavender, Lemon, May Chang, Melissa, Neroli, Orange, Rose, Rosewood, Sandalwood, Vetiver
Note: Middle
Ginger Zingiber officinalis
Spicy and warming but may smell completely different from fresh ginger. Use in blends with other deep-scented oils.
Max usage rate: 3% – equates to 0.48 oz / 13.6 g / 3 tsp PPO*
Blends with: Chamomile (German), Eucalyptus, Geranium, Lemon, May Chang, Rosemary, Vetiver
Note: Top
Grapefruit Citrus grandis
A fresh and sweet citrus aroma that blends well with floral and citrus essential oils. Though you can use ordinary grapefruit essential oil in soap recipes, it’s better to use folded, which gives a stronger scent. 5x is available through some distributors.
Max usage rate: 3% – equates to 0.48 oz / 13.6 g / 3 tsp PPO*
Blends with: Bergamot, Chamomile, Geranium, Jasmine, Lavender, Mandarin, May Chang, Palmarosa, Rose, Ylang Ylang
Note: Top
Jasmine Jasminum officinale
A heady, sweet, and exotic floral fragrance that is best used in blends due to its low usage rate.
Max usage rate: 1% – equates to 0.16 oz / 4.54 g / 1 tsp PPO*
Blends with: Bergamot, Chamomile, Clary Sage, Geranium, Orange, Palmarosa, Rose, Sandalwood, Spearmint, Vetiver
Note: Base
Juniper Berry Juniperus communis
A crisp, sweet, and woodsy, pine-like aroma that blends well with citrus oils. It has a low usage rate and tendency to fade in soap recipes so it’s not very popular. You might be able to fix the scent using woodsy essential oils.
Max usage rate: 1% – equates to 0.16 oz / 4.54 g / 1 tsp PPO*
Blends with: Bergamot, Geranium, Grapefruit, Lemongrass, Lime, Orange, Rosemary, Sandalwood
Note: Middle
Lavender (English) Lavandula augustifolia
Long used in the perfume industry, lavender oil is sweet, herbaceous, and floral and blends well with many other essential oils.
Max usage rate: 3% – equates to 0.48 oz / 13.6 g / 3 tsp PPO*
Blends with: Bergamot, Chamomile, Geranium, Grapefruit, Jasmine, Lemongrass, Lime, Orange, Patchouli, Rosemary, Sandalwood, Scots Pine, Vetiver
Note: Middle
Lemongrass Cymbopogon schoenanthus
A lush and green citrus scent that does well on its own in soap and when blended. Can cause soap to trace quickly and has a low usage rate.
Max usage rate: 1% – equates to 0.16 oz / 4.54 g / 1 tsp PPO*
Blends with: Black Pepper, Cedarwood, Citronella, Geranium, Lavender, Neroli, Patchouli, Tea Tree
Note: Top
Lemon Citrus limonum
A fresh, strong, and sharp lemon scent like zested lemon peel. Unfortunately, the scent of ordinary lemon essential oil does not last well in soap. Try looking for folded lemon essential oil for a long-lasting scent. It comes in 5x and 10x.
Max usage rate: 3% – equates to 0.48 oz / 13.6 g / 3 tsp PPO*
Blends with: Chamomile, Eucalyptus, Fennel, Ginger, Juniper, Lavender, Melissa, May Chang, Neroli, Orange, Rose, Sandalwood, Ylang Ylang
Note: Top
Lime Citrus aurantifolia
A sharp, bright, and bitter-sweet citrus essential oil extracted from the peel. Lime essential oil can be irritating, so only use lime essential oil that’s been distilled when making soap recipes. Like many other citrus oils, the scent may fade relatively quickly.
Max usage rate: 3% – equates to 0.48 oz / 13.6 g / 3 tsp PPO*
Blends with: Basil, Bergamot, Geranium, Lavender, Melissa, Neroli, Palmarosa, Rose, Ylang Ylang
Note: Top
Marjoram (Sweet) Origanum marjorana
Warm and peppery and similar to oregano essential oil. It’s not a common one in soapmaking but can be blended with other herbal, citrus, and floral oils.
Max usage rate: 3% – equates to 0.48 oz / 13.6 g / 3 tsp PPO*
Blends with: Bergamot, Cedarwood, Chamomile, Lavender, Mandarin, Orange, Rosemary, Rosewood, Vetiver, Ylang Ylang
Note: Middle
May Chang Litsea cubeba
One of the best citrus essential oils for soapmaking due to its longevity and sweet, lemony, and sparkling fragrance. Though used in blends, mainly to anchor other citrus oils, it’s wonderful on its own! It also has a yellow color that can slightly tint or warm up soap colors.
Max usage rate: 3% – equates to 0.48 oz / 13.6 g / 3 tsp PPO*
Blends with: Cedarwood, Chamomile, Eucalyptus, Ginger, Grapefruit, Palmarosa, Patchouli, Tea Tree, Ylang Ylang
Note: Middle to top
Melissa Melissa officinalis
Melissa, also known as melissa balm, is a sweet, herbal oil that’s fresh, lemony, and light. It’s quite expensive, so be aware that affordable options are often sold as dilutions.
Max usage rate: 3% – equates to 0.48 oz / 13.6 g / 3 tsp PPO*
Blends with: Bergamot, Cedarwood, Citronella, Fennel, Grapefruit, Lavender, Lemon, Lemongrass, Lime, Mandarin, Orange, Vetiver
Note: Middle
Neroli Citrus aurantium
Neroli is the floral honey scent produced by the flowers of the bitter orange tree. It’s has a light and beautiful fragrance.
Max usage rate: 3% – equates to 0.48 oz / 13.6 g / 3 tsp PPO*
Blends with: Bergamot, Geranium, Lavender, Lemon, Lime, Orange, Palmarosa, Petitgrain, Rose, Rosemary, Sandalwood, Ylang Ylang
Note: Depending on what it’s blended with, it can make up any of the notes in a fragrance. Top, middle, and base notes.
Orange Citrus aurantium dulcis
Zesty, sweet, and citrusy orange fragrance extracted from the peel. The very common sweet orange essential oil, unfortunately, does not leave a lasting fragrance in soap. Instead, use a folded essential oil, either 5x or 10x orange essential oil as in this orange soap recipe.
Max usage rate: 3% – equates to 0.48 oz / 13.6 g / 3 tsp PPO*
Blends with: Geranium, Jasmine, Juniper, Lavender, Melissa, Lemon, Neroli, Petitgrain, Rose
Note: Top
Palmarosa Cymbopogon martini
Palmarosa is also called gingergrass, and its scent is lightly floral and rose-like but with citrusy and grassy undertones.
Max usage rate: 3% – equates to 0.48 oz / 13.6 g / 3 tsp PPO*
Blends with: Bergamot, Geranium, Jasmine, Lavender, Lime, May Chang, Orange, Petitgrain, Rose, Rosewood, Sandalwood, Ylang Ylang
Note: Top
Patchouli Pogostemon cablin
A powerful, earthy, and musky scent that is almost woody. Though it can be used on its own, patchouli has a broader appeal when it’s blended with other oils.
Max usage rate: 3% – equates to 0.48 oz / 13.6 g / 2.75 tsp PPO*
Blends with: Bergamot, Clary Sage, Geranium, Ginger, Lavender, Lemongrass, May Chang, Neroli, Rosewood, Sandalwood, Scots Pine, Vetiver
Note: Base
Peppermint Mentha piperita
Sharp and filled with herbal menthol, peppermint can be used on or in blends, especially with other herbal or citrus oils.
Max usage rate: 2% – equates to 0.32 oz / 9 g / 2 tsp PPO*
Blends with: Cedarwood, Lavender, Lemon, Mandarin, Neroli, Rosemary, Scots Pine, Vetiver
Note: Middle to Top
Petitgrain Citrus aurantium
Like neroli and bergamot, petitgrain comes from the bitter orange tree. It’s extracted from the bark and has a woodsy, floral, and slightly bitter scent. It’s best used in blends, rather than on its own.
Max usage rate: 3% – equates to 0.48 oz / 13.6g / 3 tsp PPO*
Blends with: Bergamot, Cedarwood, Geranium, Lavender, Orange, Neroli, Palmarosa, Rosemary, Rosewood, Sandalwood, Ylang Ylang
Note: Middle to Top
Rose Absolute Rosa damascena or Rosa x Centifolia
An intense rose essential oil that smells of sweet roses. Rose absolute is an extraction of rose using hexane, a solvent which is not present in the essential oil. Sold both in pure and dilutions (usually 5% in a carrier oil), its usage in soaps is restricted due to its methyl eugenol (natural allergen) content. The usage rate below is for pure rose absolute.
Max usage rate: 0.1% – equates to 0.016 oz / 0.45 g / ~1/16 tsp PPO*
Blends with: Bergamot, Chamomile, Clary Sage, Geranium, Jasmine, Lavender, Orange, Neroli, Palmarosa, Patchouli, Rosewood, Sandalwood
Note: Middle
Rose Otto Rosa damascena
A less intense rose essential oil that smells of roses but that may have a more herbaceous tone. Also called Attar of Roses, rose otto is extracted through steam distillation. The usage rate below is for pure rose otto and is so low that it’s not worth using in soap recipes. I’m only including it in this list to draw attention to the difference between this rose essential oil and Rose Absolute.
Max usage rate: 0.025% – equates to 0.004 oz / 0.11 g / ~1/64 tsp PPO*
Blends with: Bergamot, Chamomile, Clary Sage, Geranium, Jasmine, Lavender, Orange, Neroli, Palmarosa, Patchouli, Rosewood, Sandalwood
Note: Middle
Rosemary Rosmarinus officinalis
Refreshing and stimulating rosemary is an herbal essential oil that blends well with floral, herbal, and citrus.
Max usage rate: 3% – equates to 0.48 oz / 13.6 g / 3 tsp PPO*
Blends with: Cedarwood, Citronella, Geranium, Ginger, Grapefruit, Lemongrass, Lime, Mandarin, Orange, Peppermint, Spearmint
Note: Middle
Rosewood Aniba rosaeodora
Spicy, woodsy, and floral, rosewood is used in blends with other wood and floral scents. Also called Bois de Rose.
Max usage rate: 3% – equates to 0.48 oz / 13.6 g / 3 tsp PPO*
Blends with: Cedarwood, Geranium, Palmarosa, Patchouli, Petitgrain, Rose, Rosemary, Sandalwood
Note: Middle to Top
Sandalwood Santalum album
Soft, warm, and woodsy, sandalwood is a gorgeous base for many citrus and floral oils. This is an expensive oil that has some sustainability issues to be aware of so try to know where the trees/oil is sourced. It’s also common to come across synthetic fragrance oils being sold as sandalwood essential oil.
Max usage rate: 3% – equates to 0.48 oz / 13.6 g / 3 tsp PPO*
Blends with: Geranium, Jasmine, Lavender, Lemon, Neroli, Palmarosa, Rose, Rosewood, Vetiver, Ylang Ylang
Note: Base
Scots Pine Pinus sylvestris
Fresh, resinous, and herbal, pine essential oil blends with other herbal, woodsy, and citrus oils. Middle to top note. Scent can be short-lasting in soap recipes.
Max usage rate: 3% – equates to 0.48 oz / 13.6 g / 3 tsp PPO*
Blends with: Cedarwood, Citronella, Eucalyptus, Lavender, Lemongrass, Rosemary, Tea Tree
Note: Middle to Top
Spearmint Mentha viridis
Sweet, clean, and fresh mint scent that you can use in blends with other herbal oils. Gentler in scent than peppermint but has a lower usage rate due to natural carvone content.
Max usage rate: 0.25% – equates to 0.04 oz / 1.14 g / ~1/8+1/16 tsp PPO*
Blends with: Rosemary, Peppermint, Jasmine, Orange, Tea Tree, Vetiver
Note: Top
Tea Tree Melaleuca alternifolia
Ranges from sweet to sharp and camphorous to citrusy. This clean smelling essential oil can have a medicinal scent. Often used in blends for oily skin or acne and a little can go a long way.
Max usage rate: 3% – equates to 0.48 oz / 13.6 g / 3 tsp PPO*
Blends with: Citronella, Eucalyptus, Ginger, Lavender, Lemon, May Chang, Orange, Rosemary
Note: Top
Vetiver Vetiveria zizanoides
Green, smoky, and earthy and related to lemongrass. Blend with floral oils and other deep scents.
Max usage rate: 3% – equates to 0.48 oz / 13.6 g / 3 tsp PPO*
Blends with: Clary Sage, Ginger, Jasmine, Lavender, Melissa, Orange, Patchouli, Spearmint, Ylang Ylang
Note: Base
Ylang Ylang II or III Cananga odorata
Called the Flower of Flowers, this oil is sweet, delicate, deep, and tropically floral. The essential oil comes in different grades including Super Extra, Extra, I (1st), II (2nd), III (3rd) and Complete. The highest quality are the first three which are usually reserved for high end perfumes. They are not used in soap recipes due to their high amounts of allergens and low usage rates. The lower-quality types we use in soapmaking are the II or III and have higher usage rates for soap. Use ylang ylang in blends with citrus, floral, and woodsy oils.
Max usage rate: 3% – equates to 0.48 oz / 13.6 g / 3 tsp PPO*
Blends with: Bergamot, Grapefruit, Jasmine, Lavender, Lemon, Neroli, Orange, May Chang, Patchouli, Rose, Rosewood, Sandalwood
Note: Base
*PPO means per pound (454 grams) of oils in your main soap recipe
Hi Tanya,
I made some unscented recipes from your site, and now getting ready to use some scent. If I use lavender and tea tree (3% each), how do I choose the proportion between them for 1 lb? 2 tsp of lavender and 1 tsp of tea tree or vice versa?
Hi Svetlana, tea tree essential oil can have different usage rates depending on the manufacturer and the essential oil calculator you use. The type I use does not have a limitation on it for soap making purposes according to it’s IFRA documentation. I use it and many others at 3% of the recipe, by weight. That amount is moderate and safe and lavender also fits into that usage rate. So, it’s up to you how much you want to use of either in your blend—just make sure that the total amount of essential oil is 3 tsp or less. Personally, I’d go for two tsp of lavender and one of tea tree, though.
Thank you :)
Hi Tanya
In a previous comment you mentioned you buy essentail oils from Naissance or FreshSkin but have you heard of The Soapery? If so, have you used any of their essential oils? As far as i can see they have their own labels so i don’t know who the actual manufacturer is.. I wonder if they’re good enough to use for selling soap or if I’m better off with the ones you mentioned!
Would appreciate your advice. Thanks in advanced
Hi Sally, I sometimes buy from the Soapery and have always had good experiences. They’re where I buy my coco caprylate to make the rose skin cream I use. I’ve not used their essential oils before, though.
If I make a blend of 4 different oils that all have a 3 tsp PPO rate, do I have to divide the oils up to get a total of 3 tsp or can I use 3 tsp of each one?
For a 1lb (454 g) batch of soap you could use 13.6 g total of essential oil if the usage rates of are all 3%. However, some essential oils weigh more than others, so the volume amount won’t always be the same. For example, 13.6 g of lavender essential oil is 3 tsp but the same weight (13.6 g) of patchouli essential oil is only 2.75 tsp. That’s because patchouli is a heavier and thicker oil, compared to lavender essential oil. So, for example, you could use 2 tsp lavender and 0.92 tsp patchouli for a 1lb soap recipe with a 3% usage rate. If in your case all the essential oils you’re using have the same usage rate and weight then you can use any mixture of them as long as it comes up to the total maximum amount. Check to see if each one equates to 3 tsp for a 3% usage rate in the list to know.
Thank you for this info! You mentioned benzoin essential oil. Do you have a usage rate for that?
Also, if I make a blend of 4 different oils that all have a 3 tsp PPO rate, do I have to divide the oils up to get a total of 3 tsp or can I use 3 tsp of each one?
Hi Sally, I’ve checked a couple of IFRA documents and the usage rate in soap is usually about 2%, but it varies from product to product. However, please know that benzoin is naturally a hard tree resin that’s ground into a powder. The “essential oil” that’s sold is actually a tincture of the resin powder. It’s typically about 45% alcohol or other solvents and the rest made up with resin. The solvents used to create it are usually ethanol alcohol but there can be other ingredients used that can cause skin sensitivity. Benzoin in its raw form contains plant chemicals that can cause skin reactions, too! So for those reasons, benzoin is a known allergen, and many people avoid using it in their soaps. It’s also the reason I’ve not listed it in the essential oil usage rate chart. Pure benzoin powder is the most sensitizing and it can feel a little scratchy in soap bars. The “essential oil” is the least sensitizing, but the solvents used to create it can cause skin reactions, especially in products manufactured and sold outside of the UK/EU.
Thank you. I posted another question for you :)
Thank you for this valuable information. I also make melt and pour do these usage rates apply to that method also? If not can you do a chart (among the many other things on your plate) for it? 😊
You’re most welcome :) You can use these rates for melt-and-pour soap, too, for a strong scent. Typically, you use about 2% of the soap by weight, though. That’s 8.5 g (0.3 oz) of fragrance oil or essential oil per 454 g (1 lb) of soap base.
I use Young Living Essential oils and would like to use Joy in some cold press soap how do I figure out how much to use of a blend?
Hi Deborah, it’s called cold process soap (as opposed to hot process). Because mass market products like Young Living keep their exact blends secret, there’s no way to know the levels of allergens present in the final essential oil. The trademarked Joy blend in particular includes rose essential oil, but which type and in what exact amount? The reason we need to know is that rose essential oil (all types) has a very low usage rate in soapmaking due to its high allergen amounts. That’s one reason that we avoid using mass market essential oil products in soapmaking. It’s also not legal to use them in commercial soapmaking (selling soap) due to their trademark and their lack of safety documents such as IFRA or MSDS certificates.
Dear Tanya, please let me know where tu buy essential oils, Im buying the Gya labs but they are too small bottles and another brand I found says it has vitamin E added, so I dont know what to do thanks
Hi Mariela, what country/region do you live?
I DOnt KNow THe AMount To Use For Mould. If I’m Using 3%/1Lb, How Much Oil Would I Use For 42Oz Mould Please?
i have enjoyed your information on goats milk in soap making and also the use of essential oils. i will definately try goats milk and will read again about essential oils and probably try them too. thank you
You’re most welcome, Veronica :)
I love vanilla scents. What can I use to scent my soaps vanilla?
Some people use Benzoin essential oil to get a vanilla-like scent.
hello it is really exciting reading through your article and chart of varieties of soap making oil ingredient. I am a beginning of homemade soap and i will be happy if you assist me with some of the oil varieties for my soap making.
i may have missed it but do you have a list of your favorite brands for essential oils? after reading thru this information, Im a little nervous about using the wrong kind. Thnx
Hi Carol, and you’re wise to be cautious. There are tons of essential oils out there that are low quality or fake. Some synthetic fragrances are also duplicitously packaged to look like essential oils! Here in Britain, I use Naissance and FreshSkin essential oils for soapmaking. They’re both very good quality and at a good price. The essential oils from the Soap Kitchen are decent too. As far as the USA and other places, I have another piece with recommendations for soap making supplies.
Hi Tanya,
I made a double batch of soap today and divided it in two and then used 3 percent essential oils in each of the batches. I weighed out the batter to 454g, however I think that one batch may have ended up being a bit smaller. I didn’t put all of the essential oil into the batters just in case but I am worried that one batch might have more than the 3% essential oils in it. Will the soap be still ok to use? It was lavender essential oil that I used in the recipe. Thank you in advance. Catherine :)
Hi Catherine, your soap will be fine to use — don’t worry :) The percentages here are general and, in many cases, conservative. Depending on the brand of essential oil and its allergen components, you can sometimes include a bit more essential oil than is given here. For example, some lavender essential oil products can have a usage rate in soap recipes of up to five percent. Lavender is one of the most gentle essential oils, anyway, and it’s the only one that you can use neat on the skin. Your soap will be great!
Thank you so much for your reply and your reassurance that the soap will be fine to use:) It is the first time I have divided a batch of soap, so will know to do this differently next time. I look forward to making another one of my favourite soap batches using the recipe from your website. :)
This was an amazing and very helpful article! Thank you!
Hi, I’ve not got past the 24,000 roses needing to be used for 15ml bottle of Rose Absolute. That’s a colossal amount and has me sat here thinking, ‘we want our products to be natural, kinder on our skin and better for our planet’ but how is destroying such a vast number of plants saving our planet? I swear this is a genuine query as I’m in the process of putting a business together. I still have a whole lot left to learn but this doesn’t sit well with me. Could anyone educate me on this matter and help put my concerns to bed. Thank you in advance.
Jax
Hi Jacqui, picking roses and most of the herbs needed to make essential oils do not kill the plant. There are essential oils that are less eco-friendly though such as those extracted with a solvent or those taken from threatened wild species, such as sandalwood.
I have made 2 batches of goat’s milk soap. The 1st one i did ot use any wtger and just followed the recipe without checking it on soapcalc.net (I was too new to know better). On my 2nd batch of goat’s milk soap I used a different recipe and checked it on soapcalc.net and noticed they only dealt with water to add the lye to (NOT FROZEN GOAT’S MILK) so I figured I would just substitute the goat’s milk for the water in the recipe. Then I noticed my recipe used quite a bit more goat’s milk than the calculation the website specified for water. Unsure what to do I followed my recipe’s amount rather than the grams of water it said to use. Well, I’ll never do that again – the soap never did trace (wouldn’t thicken that much), so I poured it into the molds anyway and they seem to be coming out OK. (I’m 2 days into curing). I know there are a lot of questions in my retelling my confused exeriences… I guess my first is can you just substitute goat’s milk for the amount of water the lye calulator sites specify?
Hi Jill, you can partially or fully replace the water called for in a soap recipe with goat’s milk. Milks should be frozen though to avoid the sugars in the milk scorching when the lye is added (here are my tips on making goat milk soap). As for water/milk amount in a soap recipe — this is variable based on the preferences of the soapmaker. For my recipes, I recommend 2x the lye amount by weight as the water amount because it’s simple, works well, and helps avoid common soapmaking issues such as soda ash. I’d advise you to stick with water/milk amounts in a recipe rather than what the SoapCalc tells you. The default setting for water amount in the SoapCalc is WAY too much for cold process recipes. Full water amount is meant for hot process soapmaking, not cold process. That’s because, in hot process, some of the water evaporates off during the cook. I suspect that you used the full water amount for your recipe and you’re experiencing what happens when a bit too much water is used in cp. It can take a long time to trace and to harden up. CP sap made with full water is also prone to developing a powdery residue on the surface called soda ash. Harmless but unattractive. Lastly, as your bars cure you will notice bar shrinkage (and sometimes warping) a lot more than if using less water.
Thank you for this chart :). Has your recommendation changed at all for Spearmint EO? In the US we are down to around 0.25% with the new IFRA. I was also wondering if you had a safe usage rate for Allspice Essential Oil in CP soap. Thank you again for all you share with the soaping community!
Hi Laura, and yes, that’s right — spearmint has recently been restricted due to high levels of carvone, a potential skin irritant. I’ll update the chart, and thank you for pointing this out :) Allspice is not an essential oil that’s used in soapmaking due to its high risk to causing skin allergy.
Thank you, Tanya! :)
I’m sorry if you already answered and I did not see this but in soap making is it best to use food grade essential oils for safety on skin???
Hi Amy, the idea of ‘food grade’ essential oil is a marketing term. Essential oils are not monitored by the FDA and the terms ‘therapeutic grade’ and ‘food grade’ essential oil are unregulated inventions of MLM companies such as Young Living. Ignore any reference to these terms and avoid ingesting essential oil too. Again, it’s unregulated territory and despite the claims by profit-making companies, no essential oil is safe to eat. To answer your question, you can use any pure essential oil to make soap :)
Hi,
May I ask if we can use essential oils for Liquid hand soap and Fabric Conditioner? How can we make a water base fragrance oil out of the essential oils?… Thank you so much.
For the first question, yes, you could. Your second question is not clear to me. Fragrance oils are synthetic perfumes and very different to essential oils.
Maybe he is meaning a hydrosol?
Lovely post – thank you for sharing. When you say 3% of the total weight, is that the oils and butters? Or do you include the water and lye in this total weight?
You’re welcome :) It’s just of the oils/fats and lye. You can leave out the weight of the water in your calculations.
Please, I have to ask. You are using PPO (per pound of oil) and EO Calc uses per ounce of oil, which calculates much differently and the final outcome is different. I am confused.
They’re just different units of measurement, Ennyl, and you’d have to work out the math if you wanted to switch between the two (there are 16oz in a pound). You only need to use one source to calculate your essential oil amount though :)
Hey im really confused and bad at calculations lol but if I have 128.20 ounces of soap how much essential oil is safe to use? Thanks so much
It depends on the essential oil(s) so it’s best you learn how to calculate :)
Thank you so much for this awesome blog post, such a help! I make soap a lot and am wondering if you have any information about Copaiba Balsam Essential oil? It seems to be one of the more affordable ones and sounds like it would smell nice. Would I simply follow the 3% rule and calculate 3% of my total batch weight?
Thank you!
Corie :)
Hi Corie and copaiba balsam essential oil is one that I’ve not used before. It seems to be a base-note essential oil when it comes to use in fragrance and is used as a fixative in perfumery. I’d recommend that you get in touch with the manufacturer you have in mind and as them for the IFRA usage rate for that particular type of copaiba balsam essential oil for category 9. Category 9 includes handmade soap.
Hello
I have never made soap before and so I an=m very excited to try it out however I am going to start with the Stephensons melt and pour soap and I would like to try the Rose Absolute drops but Im so confused about the amount to add. Could you please tell me how many drops would work for 1 KG of soap.
Thank you.
JJ
The recommended amount for 100% pure rose absolute is 1g PPO (per pound oil) when it comes to cold process soap. Most rose absolutes are not pure though and usually diluted in a carrier oil. Check the IFRA documentation for the specific essential oil you’re using to understand how much you can use in soap. The percentage will be a percentage by weight, not volume though. You never calculate how much essential oil to use in soap by drops.
I am also going to try stephenson melt and pour and wanted to combine either patchuli neroli and argan oil. Or sandalwood neroli and argan. With max usage rates i think three essential oils is about as many as you can use without the scent becoming too indistinguishable. If using these oils how many tsps per 450g would you use of each to get balance right so all scents come through?
The essential oils I bought recently, says to dilute in carrier.
Please explain what this means when making CP soap.
Thanks!
When you use essential oil in soap recipes, it becomes diluted in the soap. The important thing with essential oils is to not use them neat (direct) on the skin. Diluting in a carrier oil is what you’d do if you wanted to use essential oils in aromatherapy massage.
Hi Lovely Greens,
Newbie here, as I’m a little confused. Just wondering if I can away with a synergy blend of Black Pepper, Cedarwood, Orange, Sandalwood and Ylang ylang already bottled? Is this a no-no?
Would you suggest it be measured and done individually? I plan on doing a tallow, olive oil and coconut oil recipe?
Hi Katie, pre-mixed essential oil blends are tricky because the bottle often does not tell you the exact ratio of each. Therefore, you don’t know the quantities in each and you can’t safely work out their usage rate in soap.
I entered information into the EO Calc and for example peppermint was safe up to 5% … I never use 5% but the 3% calculation is higher than what you have mentioned above. For example if I have 5 lbs of oils is it 9g per pound equalling 45g peppermint correct? but if I enter into EO Calc its different. Is this not a trusted resource (EO Calc)
Thanks
Hi Michelle, I am conservative when it comes to essential oil rates and the amount reflected in the peppermint essential oil recommendation on this page is 2%. I’ve been making peppermint soap for a long time for retail and this is plenty! As for other guides, such as the EO Calc, they’re a good place to start but ALWAYS check the IFRA document for the exact essential oil that you’re using. Depending on the manufacturer and the process, the allergen levels may be higher than others. Some IFRA docs for some peppermint EOs say up to 5%, some say up to 3.6%, and others have differing usage rates. That’s why I’m conservative in the recommendations in this guide.
Hello, thank you for creating this resource, I have been feverishly reading and plan to make some of your beginner soaps soon. Where do you recommend purchasing the clays for coloring? I live in the US and would love a good source
Rachel
Hi Rachel, I have a list of natural soap colorants on my Amazon Storefront if that helps?
Any thoughts on Basil essential oil? I was hoping it was in this chart as I have used this for other scents. I have the NOW Foods Basil Essential Oil and would love to try it if it is not an irratant.
Hi Brandi, it can be a skin irritant at high usage rates, but you can use it at up to 1.88% by weight in soap recipes.
Hi, Can I please confirm if the Max figures provided are in relation to the totals of all essential oils or is it per essential oil? For example if I’m blending 3 different essential oils does this mean I can add 3% of each of them (making the total 9% of the oils’ weight)? Thanks,Mary
Hi Mary, you do not add the percentages together. The maximum total amount of essential oil I recommend using in soap is 3% of the total recipe.
Thank you very much! Amazing blog by the way!
Hi Tanya,
I’m Gabi, and I’m about to make a lavender soap. I got a lavender fragrance, but I’m not sure if there’s any alcohol in it, or it’s made with distilled water only. How much should I give to a batch of soap? I have a mould that makes about 900-1000 g of soap. Do I have to adjust the amount of lye and oils, when adding the fragrance? I also want to add essential lavender oil to it. I know it has to be added at the trace, but what about the fragrance? Thank you, Gabi
Hi Gabi, if you don’t know what’s in the fragrance, I’d advise not using it in soapmaking. There are fragrance oils that are meant for diffusers only and that can cause skin irritation and rashes. I’d advise using a pure lavender essential oil instead, and the usage rates for soap are listed in this piece.
Hi do you have a uk company that does pure essential oils for your soaps,? as im progressing in creating my hemp soaps and getting the safety certs, but unsure the brand ive used for yrs,for aromatherapy are the best , so was thinking of finding vegan/cruelty free, as it will go with my ethics ..and also getting thru legal stuff too.
any recomondations greatly welcomed, so i can research further…thanks for your work :) love your site, has helped me so much x
Due to sensitivities, I can’t use essential oils. When I leave them out of a formula, do I need to increase one of the other oils to keep the formula balanced? Thanks!
Not at all, Laurie. Simply leave them out :)
Hi. Thanks for all the great info. I tried essential oils in my cold process soap and it seized like a brick. Which oils tend to accelerate trace in soap recipes?
Hello,
Where can the mold that says soap be purchased.
You can get the molds here.
Hey Tanya,
Thanks for the great information. Where did you find all these maximum percentages set by the EU?
I tried looking it up online myself, but I can’t find anything. I found the ‘cosing’ database where you can look up essential oils. This will give you the CAS number and some other limited information, but when it comes to the cosmetic regulation, it just says to look it up in cosmetic regulation 1223/2009. I can’t find any essential oils in that regulation, however. Could you help me out please?
Hi Filip, the information on cosmetic production for the EU, including these figures, can be found here. However, exact essential oils are not listed, only their allergens. The figures in this piece have maximum percentages worked out based on the particular allergens in each (such as geraniol, eugenol, coumarin, etc.) that must be controlled in both leave-on and wash-off cosmetic products.
This is by far the most comprehensive site I have found for using essential oils. Thank you very much for compiling all this info in one place. I am a new fan!
Hello, I’m wondering if you knew about using calendula essential oil for soap making.
Thanks for the info :)
Hi Rachelle. There isn’t such a thing as calendula essential oil, but you can use calendula-infused carrier oils in soap making. If the variety of calendula is orange, you can harness this color to tint your bars light to bright orange. More on using plants and natural ingredients to color handmade soap is over here.
Hi Tanya,
Thanks for a really useful & informative site. I recently made some gorgeous smelling soaps, but now they have cured, the fragrances have already faded, so I am concerned that the EOs I bought weren’t as good quality as I had hoped.
Do you have any recommendations on suppliers? Like you, I am based in the UK.
Many thanks,
Carole
Hi Carole, some essential oils last longer than others. Many citrus types don’t last very long, and others will naturally fade over time. Still, many of them smell great for months or longer! Which ones did you use and which brand?
Wow, thank you for your speedy reply! I made Verbena & Sandalwood using Verbena from Mystic Moments & Sandalwood from Aura. I also made a batch with just Sandalwood, and also a Eucalyptus & Peppermint batch, using oils from Anjou. I can’t smell any of those now – I was going to give them as Christmas gifts but because of lockdown I still have them.
I made a Grapefruit & Bergamot a couple of days ago using Anjou oils, hoping they won’t fade as quickly.
I love that table you provide – amazed I didn’t find it sooner TBH!
Hi. Thank you for very detailed blog about the essential oils. I’m a beginner so this is important for me to learn and not ruin my skin of my loved ones once i handed them my soap.
My question is, where do you buy your oils? Can you maybe post a link where I can get them and i hope you get some percent off from my purchase! I am not sure if the ones on google are good for the skin.
have a good day and be safe.
Hi Luna, I live in Britain and use a lot of Naissance essential oils. Suppliers will be different based on your region though :)
Hi Tanya
Thank you for your information and passion for product making. Can I please ask this, I want to make a Rose & Geranium salve but I am very confused about the amounts of Rose that I can use. I want to make 50ml pots. Can you please help?
Kind regards
Sandie
Hi Sandie, salves are a leave-on product so you cannot use as much essential oil in them as you can in wash-off products, such as soap. I recommend no more than 2% essential oil (by weight) in any leave-on skincare product recipe. That 2% can be completely geranium essential oil, or up to 0.05% rose absolute essential oil.
Hi, I have a question, hope that you can help me.
Does the 3% essential oil (to put in my cold process soap ) includes carrier oil or should I just use pure essential oil that I bought from the store?
Many thanks.
It’s just the essential oil when referenced in soap recipes.
Thank you for this post, very very useful! I just wanted to ask a question on the ‘fixing’ of citrus scents for CP soaps. I’m new to soap making, I’ve just made a sweet orange and patchouli soap. It smelt great when I made it and for several days after but is now starting to wear off. It says about using may chang to fix the scent in. Could you explain for me, how does this work and would it change the overall scent I was going for by using this extra EO? Thank you :)
Hi George, I personally don’t use orange, lemon, or tangerine essential oils in soap for that very reason — they fade quickly. It’s the nature of the essential oil, unfortunately, and even with fixers the scent will never be as great as when you first made it. May chang is a gorgeous citrus essential oil that lasts though, as is bergamot.
Using Litsea (a Japanese citrus) will hold other citrus scents very nice. I use it all the time with grapefruit, orange, etc. Give it a try.
RC
Hello. Thank you for this site. It is very informative! Question…. If I do a soap, say spearmint eucalyptus, and both are 3 t for a pound of soap…..if I do 2 pound soap recipes, can I just use 3 t of one and 3t of the other oil and call it a day??
Yes, that’s perfect :)
Hi! I haven’t been able to find anything online that can answer this question and your blog is the closest I’ve gotten. If I add essential oils or colorants to a soap recipe do I need to adjust the oils and the lye to account for it or can I just add them in?
Essential oils and colorants are not considered in the formulation of base soap recipes — they’re just extras. So no, the oils and lye amount don’t need adjusting. The amount of essential oil you use is based on how much is safe for your skin and that can vary based on the essential oil.
Hell,
I’ve just discovered your website and it is super helpful! thank you soo much for all those info!
I have been looking for few days now but can’t find anything: is there a calculator, or a website that indicates the quantity of each EO that is advised to use together?
for example, if I want to make a cold process soap with lemongrass and rosemary EO, is there any tool to tell/advice me what is the best combination in %?
I found calculator that give me the total amount of EO to use according to the amount of oil, but can’t find anything regarding how each EO is to be calculated separately..
or maybe there is a website/list with the most known combinations of EO and their %?
Also, can you please explain step by step how to use the toothpick test? I’m not sure to understand properly if I should dip one end in all EO I want to use or each end in separate EO then place all toothpicks in the sealed bag, even though the last option makes more sense..
As far as I’m aware, there’s no essential oil calculator like that. It would be handy though! You have to work it out manually until that time.
Toothpick test: use a separate toothpick for each ‘part’ of essential oil. For example, if your blend would be two parts lavender and one part rosemary, you’d have two toothpicks of lavender and one of rosemary.
Do the amount of percentage change if you are using more than one Essential Oil?
Stick to the guide of 3% total essential oil in soap recipes. That includes blends too. Keep in mind that some essential oils have lower usage rates.
Thanks for this really helpful article – my brain was fried before reading it!
I have settled on a blend of 3 Eos for a cp soap batch of the following:
Rose Maroc absolute
Neroli
Patchouli
Using your suggestion of 30, 60, 10% it brings the Rose to 0.09% which is too high. How could I rectify this? By lowering the percentage of the top note and adding to middle/base notes? Diluting the top note between rose and AN Other EO?
I love the blend I’ve put together so I’d rather not add another EO to the mix!
Thank you so much for your help; it’s very much appreciated.
The percentages are just a guideline rather than law — if you like your blend, run with it :)
Good morning….. I was thinking about using a ‘fixer’ like arrowroot to help keep the smell of the essential oils from fading I haven’t found where in the process in soap making to add the fixer? Thanks so much and I’ve read your articles for soap making for beginners and they’re great
Mix it with a little water and add at trace.
How much arrowroot should you use per pound or %?
Hi Dolores and I’d recommend about 1/4 tsp PPO (per pound oils)
Hi! First of all, thank you very much for all the instructions – fantastic job!
And before I will make my first soap I have a question. You commented the lemongrass oil as follow: Lush and green citrus scent that does well on its own in soap and when blended. Also, the lemongrass is recommended as the top oil, not the middle. But on your video on the Youtube about lemongrass soap (great!) you listed lemongrass oil as the basic one. Is it correct?
Citrus essential oils are generally top notes — these are scents that you smell right away in a blend. Lemongrass can be used on its own in a soap recipe or blended with other essential oils though.
So you dont have to dilute essential oils when making cold press or melt and pour soaps? Im new to soap making and trying to do my research before trying my first batch.
Just adding them to the soap mix is diluting them. The point about dilution is that you should (almost) never use essential oils directly on the skin.
Can you explain about top notes, middle notes and base notes.
I am a beginner and have no idea.
Hi, is there a reason you don’t list thyme essential oil? I just used it today and it caused almost immediate ricing! Is this why it’s not on your list? Are there any others to avoid from your experience?
Many Thanks
Thyme is an essential oil that you need to be very cautious with. At the maximum usage rate of 0.5-1% in soap it can still cause skin irritation and the scent might not even come through. It naturally contains high levels of Thymol, and some types also contain Geraniol, both of which are known skin allergens.
This is actually good. But I want to get more information.
Hi, thank you for the information about using essential oils in cold press soap.
My question is are all essential oils made equal? If not do the quantities change with quality of essential oil? Thank you
Not all essential oils are equal but the amount specified in this piece are standard for the type. Better quality essential oils are made from higher quality plant material and better processing methods.
Thank you for sharing this chart and explaining the process. I am a candle maker by trade and now dipping my toes into cold process soap. I have looked at fragrance calculators online (US ones) and from my experience of candle making I know not to necessarily follow what makers do in other countries. The calculators I have come across seem to base the amount of essential oil (or fragrance oil) on the weight of the oils in the soap and not the total weight for the soap batter. My question is, do I calculate the 3% from the weight of the oils, or the total batter weight (including the lye/water weight.) Many thanks!
It should be calculated as the percentage of all the ingredients in the recipe except the water. Most of the water evaporates out of your soap after you make it but before you use it.
Many thanks! That makes perfect sense.
hi – i am hoping you can help me – i am starting to make some blends for my cp soaps – i have a mix that has nutmeg essential oil in it but i cannot for the life of me find the safe % of nutmeg to use – is there somewhere you can advise me to look
thanks
liz
In the EU you may use Nutmeg essential oil in up to 0.12% by weight in handmade soap made for retail. Providing you have the proper cosmetic assessments, cosmetic insurance, and have submitted the product to the EU cosmetic database. I generally use the EU guidelines for all my handmade soap, regardless of whether they are destined to be sold or not.
This was very helpful. Thanks for it!
Thank you for this very useful and informative article.
Question, if you use photosensitive oils (i.e. bergamot, lemon, citrus oils) as ingredients in soap or facial wash, etc… does the rule on non-exposure to direct sunlight after use apply? Or does this only apply to roller blends?
It’s not the same as in leave-on products. Unless you have VERY sensitive skin, ou’re perfectly fine to go out in the sun after using a soap made with citrus oils. Most of it washes off in the bath or shower.
I’m interested in making Soap. I read everything in this article but for some reason I can’t see the chart. Can you email a copy of it to me?
What about prcentage of essential oils dor children 7 and up and 4 years to 7 years? All base on soap weight?
I’d say the standard amounts are fine for kids but choose essential oils that are more sensitive. Lavender for one. It might actually be better to make unscented soap for kids though anyway.
Many thanks for the info! Very helpful.
Thanks for sharing such a important information. This is really useful and helps a lot. I want to say Thank You again.
Thank you for this informative article.
In my experience, some essential oil scents are difficult to maintain in soap especially citrus oils. Do you prefer to CP or HP your soaps and do you add clays to help fix them?
Thanks
There are a few things that can help fix the scent of essential oils — clays, orris root powder, and even oatmeal pieces in my experience. Some essential oils are more tricky though — lemon, orange, and tangerine can fade quickly. I don’t tend to use them in cold-process soap unless they’re fixed with another essential oil like Litsea cubeba. Even then, they do fade a bit.
Hi,
I have never made soap before and am wondering how do you go about getting your soaps seen by a chemist and what sort of charges would they be .
Many thanks and a wonderfull website on the many different things you do.
Ralph
The way it works in the UK is that you send your recipes to a chemist who offers the service. They look over them and certify that they’re safe and within regulations. After that, you’re able to get insurance and to legally sell your handmade soap (and other bath/cosmetic products) to the public. Legally you cannot sell soap or personal care products to anyone in the UK and European Union without a Cosmetic Safety Assessment by a EU certified chemist.
Hi Sarah ,
I am having little confusion in soap making if I want to try some essential oil blends in soap making ,for example lye,water, coconut and olive oil all together if I trace and weight for small batch 100 gm to test the essential blends how much I should measure it , in drops or tsp or in gram ,plz guide me and also natural clay how much I should add for 100 gram I can multiply for big batches. Past 1 year l am learning and reading kindle books and watching YouTube still little clarification needed.
Sorry for to big text
Thanks
Jaya
Hi Jaya — Tanya here (no Sarah :). When calculating a recipe technically, you should always measure by weight, not volume. However, it’s easier to measure out essential oils in teaspoons and Tablespoons while making soap. If you want to make a perfect 3% essential oil recipe, pre-measure the oils on a micro-scale and then afterwards measure the volume amount. Different essential oils will have a different volume measurement for the same weight.
Would the amounts be the same when using a melt and pour soap base?
Good question! Yes is the answer
Hi Helen. Thank you for the info. But which EU law are you applying? (‘The EU considers an essential oil usage rate of 3% or less to be safe in wash-off products like soap’). I am looking at the EU regulation at the moment and couldn’t find it. Would you mind share the link with us? I used more than 3% EO on my soap.
Who’s Helen? As for the 3% rule that’s regulated by the chemists who create safety assessments. You cannot legally sell handmade soap to customers in the EU without having your recipes certified by a chemist. This 3% rule comes from my own chemist.
Hi Tanya. Sorry about that I got your name wrong. I need more help here. Where can I find the regulation saying that ”we are not allowed to sell soaps without having a chemist certification” under EU laws? So are you saying that all the handmade soaps in the market without chemist certification is illegal?
Yes and if anything happens, your insurance would not cover you. All the legal jargon is in EU Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products
It is really shocking that so many people are unaware of the law. As well as having to get each and every recipe safety assessed, you also have to use “stamped for trade” scales to check the weight of your end product. Kitchen scales, however accurate, just won’t do. It’s an expensive business getting started, that’s for sure, even more so if you want a variety of different products in your range, as each must be separately assessed. There are also strict laws about labelling and declaring ingredients. Try the Guild of Craft Soap and Toiletry Makers for more advice.
So if you only use two essential oils like cedarwood and vanilla what would the percent be ? I’ve been told vanilla is a very strong scent is that true. should I use less vanilla. Any thoughts. I like the tooth pick idea. Thanks Cheri
Vanilla is a fragrance oil rather than an essential oil. As for mixing, the top, middle, and base ratios are a guide but not a rule. Use the toothpick method to create a blend that you and others like and then go for it :)
Hello.
I love your site. It is wonderful. I am trying to mix my own essential oils. Can I mix just two flavours? Or must it be top, middle and base?
When it comes to mixing your own oils, it’s completely up to you! The top, middle, and base recommendations are purely a guide. There are many middle-top and middle-base blends that work well.
Hi, first of all let me just say thanks! I love your website and all the info you provide.?. I have been following recipes at the moment to make soap, but I’m finding that the sent from the essential oils I am adding don’t seem to last through the curing process. You mentioned adding clays and/or orris root powder. Any more info on this, e.g.. when to add and what quantities?
Thanks
Hi Tanya,
Can rosewood be used in CP soap making?
If so what can it be mixed with and what % can be used please?
Many thanks
Wendy
I just came across your website and new to soap making, this list has really helped me out with my blends but I wanted to make a soap with Pink Grapefruit, Lavander, Rosemary and sweet orange. 2 of theses EO are top notes and 2 of these EO are middle notes. How would I work out the 100% total? Would i devide the 2 top notes and devide the 2 middle notes
15% Grapefruit 0.24 =0.8
15% Sweet Orange 0.24 =0.8
30% Rosemary 0.24 = 0.24.5
30% Lavender 0.24= 0.24.5
I have probably done this all wrong. Please could you give me some advice. Also are these percentages based on grams? Example 30% lavander is 0.24= 0.24.5 grams or Oz. Sorry confused maybe a soap recipe of yours would be ideal as an example .
Hi Becky! Have you ever tried the toothpick test before? It’s a way of testing an essential oil blend before making an entire batch of soap. In your case, get five toothpicks. Each toothpick has two ends which you’ll dip into essential oil and then place in a sealed bag. Seal it up and then in a minute or so, have a smell to see if you like the blend. If you don’t like it, try again.
As for making up the last 10% of your recipe, it’s completely up to you. You can choose a base note like cedar or ginger, or bulk up your middle note essential oils to cover the difference.
Thank you for posting this information! I’ve been trying to find something like this forever and i’m glad I stumbled across it over on Pinterest! I’m going to tuck this info away for the next soap making day!!
You’re welcome Leen and happy soap making :)
‘m a little confused. If I used three different essential oils in one pound of soap, the combined EO should not exceed 3% of 16oz or each EO should not exceed 3%?
Also, the note chart doesn’t equal 100%, so that’s confusing to me too?
30% of a blend should be Top Notes
80% of a blend should be Middle Notes
10% of a blend should be Base Note
Thanks
Hope this helps: 3% of 16oz is 0.48oz — that’s the total amount in weight of essential oils you’d use in this particular recipe.
30% of 0.48oz = 0.14
60% of 0.48oz = 0.29
10% of 0.48oz = 0.05
I refer to this page allot. Thank you so much for writing this article.
This is just what I was looking for thanks for the breakdown x
Further to this, I would like to clarify. My mold makes 3 lbs of soap. Hence the total amount of melt and pour soap base would be 48oz . 3% of 48 oz is 1.44
Using the example above
30% of 1.44 oz= 0.43oz
60% of 1.44oz= 0.86Oz
10% of 1.44oz = 0.14oz
Would I convert ounces to teaspoons or drops for measuring the essential oils ?
Do I need to dilute the essential oil blend in a carrier oil like sweet almond oil before adding to the melt and pour base?
Also would I add this blend evenly to each layer of soap or it doesn’t matter?
I’d stick with the weights at first. If you want to use teaspoons for subsequent batches, work out how many teaspoons equate to those particular weights when you make the first batch.
No need to dilute essential oils in carrier oils before adding to soap. Carrier oils are meant to dilute essential oils before you put them directly on your skin (think massage oils).
The essential oil should ideally be consistent right through your soap.
Hello! I just discovered your site and love it!!! I am brand new at this soap making craft and am very excited! The Essential Oil for Soap Making Chart is great, is there a way to print this chart? I tried to simply copy and paste, but it did not work.
I appreciate your information and time that you have put in for this site. I look forward to hearing from you.
Hi Angel and happy to welcome a beginner soap maker :) I don’t yet have a printable version of this chart but I’ll look into creating one. Stay tuned!
Hi Tanya/ I am Lyuda/ I would like ask about essential oils for soap. I saw in your video a big bottle of them/ What is the oils and where i can buy them/ . I have read a lot about them and i saw a very expensive and less what you advice about them/ Thank you
You are an angel! Thank you so much for the specificity of your directions as well as sharing helpful hints. As someone who has scoured the internet and books for clear direction, it has to be said, you are the Harvard of teachers in soaping. Bless you!
You’re so welcome Arian — happy soaping!
Hi Tanya, thank you for this valuable lesson on essential oil percentages. I’m new to soap making and I always wonder should I let me soap gel or not!!!! which method is better??? please help :)
To Gel just means to intensify the color and make the soap a shinier, less opaque tone. If you don’t gel it will be opaque and much more toned down in shade. Both can be beautiful!
Thanks for your extensive post today. I have to admire your beautiful soap colours. I am a soapmaker, and have tried several methods to get those bright clear colours. Including infusions, adding color straight to lye water and using the whitest oils possible. Any suggestions?
Hi Helen! The method for using each natural colour is different and variations will occur based on how much you use, temperature, introduction method, introduction sequence, whether the soap gels or not, colour of oils, colour of essential oils or fragrance oils, and quality of the substance used. It’s all about trial and error to get the right shade.