Paprika & Charcoal Swirled Soap Recipe (cold process)

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This swirled infused-oil soap recipe draws inspiration from Halloween pumpkins and the flickering fires of Bonfire Night. Create the orange with paprika-infused oil and the black with a generous amount of activated charcoal, then swirl them together. This advanced cold process soapmaking technique includes making two batches of soap at once.

Lovely Greens Botanical Soapmaking Ebook



Traditional swirled soap recipes involve making a single batch of soap, splitting it, coloring each part, then mixing them back together. Many use synthetic colorants to achieve vibrant colors, and they can be stunning!

In natural soap recipes, though, we don’t use dyes, micas, oxides, or ultramarines. Some powdered natural soap colorants we do use include clay, charcoal, and indigo, but their range of colors is limited. Especially when you specifically want to create a natural Halloween soap in striking orange and black.

We’ve got one card up our sleeves, though—using infused oils. Some soap colorants, like paprika, can be mixed directly into soap, but the powder can be abrasive in high amounts, and the color fades.

However, if you infuse the powder into a carrier oil, then use the colored oil to make soap, you can achieve vivid, long-lasting colors.

Making infused oil soap recipes is simple for 1-color soap recipes, but what if you want to make swirls or patterns with a second color? I have your back with this recipe! It’s an advanced technique where you make two of the same soap recipes at once—one orange and the other deep black. Then you mix them together to create incredible fire-like soap bars.

Making Swirled Soap Using Infused Oils

The easiest way to make multicolored soap using two or more colors is to use synthetic colorants. You can make a batch of soap, split it into different portions, then mix each with oxides and ultramarines, or use dyes or micas. Pour and swirl them into a mold strategically, and you get some incredible patterns and colors. I’d guess that most vividly colored soap is colored this way.

Four square bars of deeply colored orange and black swirled soap on a white marble surface.
A single batch of this recipe makes four chunky bars of intense orange-and-black soap.

For a natural option, you could do this, too, but you’re much more limited—especially when you have a color scheme in mind.

Pouring orange and black soap batter into a white slab mold.
You layer and then gently swirl orange and black soap batter.

Another way to create a 2-color soap is to use embeds in a new batch of soap. You could also grate up a bar of premade orange soap and mix it into a black batch (or vice versa) as a Halloween confetti soap.

A hand is dragging the second of six lines through the soap.
Use a chopstick to create the pattern.

The method I’ll show you below is more sophisticated, though, and creates striking colored patterns. To make it, you make a batch of soap using paprika-infused oil and another using activated charcoal. Pouring and then mixing them together creates contrasting bands and patterns.

Getting each batch to trace at the same time and at the same relative temperature is challenging, so I don’t recommend this technique for beginners. Also, the charcoal batch thickens slightly earlier than the paprika, so you will need to be very mindful when making soap. The technique is exciting, but it requires patience, attention to detail, and precise ingredient measurements.

Paprika-infused Oil for Orange Soap

Paprika is the most reliable, vibrant natural soap colorant for orange—at least, as far as I know. Turmeric and annatto seeds can sometimes be used, too, if you use enough and leave the infusion for many months. Both are typically used for various shades of yellow, though. What these colorants have in common, though, is that they give the cleanest, most brilliant soap colors when infused into oil.

Paprika infused oil in a glass jar. It's a deep red-orange color.
Finished paprika-infused oil is a deep red-orange.

Paprika is dried, powdered paprika peppers, and I’ve grown this special type of pepper before. It was fascinating to dry the fruit out in a food dehydrator and then use my immersion blender to turn the dried pieces into powder. Whether you start with homegrown or purchased, infuse about 1/3 cup of dried paprika powder in a quart of olive oil for a month, or use the crock-pot method to infuse it within hours.

Paprika soap from the Botanical Soapmaking ebook.

At the end of the infusion, you’ll have a bright red-orange oil that you can strain and use in place of plain olive oil in soap recipes.

Use a small portion of the olive oil called for in a recipe with paprika-infused oil to get a light orange-creamsicle hue. Use it at up to 50% of the total soap recipe for a deep pumpkin orange.

Using Charcoal for Naturally Black Soap

Black soap looks incredible, and you can make it with one of a few ingredients. Black mica and black iron oxide are common and accessible, but neither is considered a natural ingredient. The last option, fortunately, is natural: activated charcoal.

A fine dark black powder in a clear glass ramekin.
Activated charcoal is a natural soap colorant for making gray-to-black soap.

It comes as a fine powder, and you typically use up to 1.5 tsp (1/2 TBSP) per pound (454 g) of soap for a deep matte black. You can use more, but you’ll get a light gray lather. In this recipe, we’re going a little wild and using double that amount (1.5 tsp in a 227 g batch) to get solid black swirls. So, you will definitely get a light gray lather from this recipe.

The gray color comes from soap lather that’s loaded with activated charcoal. Though it could look alarming (perfect for Halloween!), it’s used by some as a skin purifier and washes off completely. It can sometimes cause a mess if you leave it sitting at your sink, but don’t worry, it doesn’t stain or make you dirty. You can even find it in some teeth-whitening toothpastes.

Activated charcoal can cause soap lather to turn gray, but it doesn’t stain surfaces.

Activated charcoal is a powder that you can mix into your soap at any point in the soapmaking process: in the lye solution, in the oils, or mixed at trace.

If you mix the powder in at trace, pre-mix it into a little oil or vegetable glycerine and pour it into the soap using a fine-mesh strainer. This ensures it doesn’t leave clumps in your finished soap bars. In this recipe, we use a lot of activated charcoal to ensure that the black is BLACK-BLACK.

Splitting and Coloring a Soap Batch

Because activated charcoal is so dark, you might think it could cover up other colors. So the most obvious way to use it in this recipe might be to split a single batch of paprika-infused oil soap, color one part, and then mix it together. Unfortunately, the effect didn’t work very well for me.

Two soaps, side by side. One has vibrant orange and deep black swirls. The other has light orange and grey swirls.
The soap on the right is made with paprika and annatto infused oils. The batch was split and half was mixed with activated charcoal.

I tried to make a batch this way, and the result shows how charcoal colors soap. It doesn’t dye it; instead, it disperses as tiny grains in the soap. Up close, you can see orange soap interspersed with black specks. From a normal distance, the overall color effect is a warm gray. This makes sense because I sometimes use activated charcoal with other colorants to create darker hues.

A close-up reveals that the orange undercolor mixes with the black activated charcoal.

I think that unless you use much more charcoal than recommended, the best way to make natural orange-and-black swirled soap is to make two separate batches at the same time and then swirl them together. That way, the activated charcoal shows up cleanly since the black color doesn’t mix with another color.

Using Infused Oils in Soapmaking

Despite the extra work, I’m excited to know that making two batches of soap at once works well when swirling infused oil soap recipes. My next stop will be making two batches of infused oil soap, maybe deep magenta-pink Himalayan rhubarb soap and a lighter paprika. Or indigo and alfalfa. The combination ideas are endless when you’re working with tried-and-tested botanicals!

Finding and using the right plants, herbs, and spices to make naturally colored soap isn’t easy. Some that you think would work, like beets, leave you with a disappointing brown instead of pink or red. Others, like spinach, tint soap a vivid green only to fade to tan.

Fortunately, I’ve experimented with many different plants in soapmaking over the past fifteen years and have narrowed down the best ones for you.

One of them is paprika, which you’ll use in this infused oil soap recipe. I’ve shared many others in my ebook, Botanical Soapmaking: Oil Infusions for Vibrant, Natural Colors. If you want to start making incredible, naturally colored soap, I recommend getting a copy. Each plant introduced in it will give you long-lasting botanical color in cold-process soap when used in infused oil. Here are more soap recipes to explore:

Natural Halloween soap recipe colored orange with paprika-infused oil and black with activated charcoal #soapmaking #soaprecipe #coldprocesssoap

Halloween Soap Recipe (Cold Process)

Lovely Greens
Make this cold-process Halloween soap recipe by combining two separate batches of naturally colored soap. This recipe is for intermediate to advanced soapmakers and involves making paprika-infused oil to color one batch of soap and using activated charcoal to color a second. Mixing them together creates a flame-like effect, especially in a slab mold. Technical information: 455 g (1 lb) batch, 5.7% superfat, 2:1 water-to-lye ratio.
Author Lovely Greens
Cost 10

Materials
 

Paprika-infused oil

Lye solution

Solid oils

Liquid oils

Additives

Instructions

Make paprika-infused oil

  • Before making this recipe, I recommend reading all the way through. That way, you'll be prepared for each step and know exactly what to expect. Start by making paprika-infused oil, which will tint half the soap batter a vivid orange.
  • Measure the paprika and olive oil into a glass jar, then seal it. Leave it in the cupboard for a month, shaking it every few days, or gently warm it to help the paprika infuse the oil. If you choose the latter, set the jar in a shallowly filled crock-pot and leave it on warm for 4-12 hours. The water should ideally come up to the oil level in the jar.
  • After the time is up, strain the paprika spice from the oil using a cheesecloth-lined sieve. Measure the clear red-orange oil for this recipe—you will probably have a little extra, so measure it by weight.

Preparing to make cold process soap

  • Cold-process soapmaking is chemistry, and this recipe uses lye. Lye is a caustic substance that is completely neutralized in the soapmaking process, but it can be harmful if not handled correctly. Please read this soap making safety guidance before proceeding.
  • Prepare your workstation with the tools and equipment. Put on rubber or nitrile gloves, eye protection, and an apron.
  • Carefully pre-measure the ingredients using a digital kitchen scale. In this soap recipe, you use the listed ingredients to make two batches of soap at once. This means you'll need to split many ingredient amounts in half and measure them into two different containers or pots.
    Two pans of solid oils, a ramekin of activated charcoal, one jug of yellow oils, and a jug of deep red-orange oil.
  • – Put half the shea butter and half the coconut oil into each of the two pots. Each pot has both shea butter and coconut oil, but just half of the amount called for in the recipe.
    – Put half the castor oil and the full amount of paprika-infused oil into one jug
    – Measure the other half of the castor oil and the full amount of plain olive oil into another jug.
    – Split the water into two heat-proof jugs. Make sure that the water amount is as exact as possible.
    – Split the lye into two additional heat-proof jugs.
    – If you are using essential oils, split the amounts called for in half and measure them into two small glass or ceramic dishes. Each dish contains half of each essential oil called for.
    – Measure the activated charcoal into another small dish.
    Two sets of ingredients for making lye solution. Two jugs of distilled water and two smaller jugs of lye.

Mix the lye solution

  • The first step in this Halloween soap recipe is making two separate jugs of lye solution. Pour the two amounts of lye (sodium hydroxide) into their corresponding jug of water. Be careful and do this in a well-ventilated area, as it will produce a lot of heat and steam. Try not to breathe it in. Mix well and then leave the lye solutions to cool in a sink filled shallowly with cold water.
    Two jugs of lye solution sitting in a sink filled shallowly with water.

Preparing the oils

  • Place both pots of solid oils on the stove or hotplate. Melt them simultaneously on very low heat.
  • While the solid oils are melting, mix the essential oils into the liquid oils*. You have one jug with castor oil and paprika-infused olive oil, and the other with castor oil and uncolored olive oil. Pour in the essential oils—one amount into one jug and the other into the second jug.
  • Next, add the activated charcoal powder to the jug of uncolored liquid oils. Stir it in well.

Bring the ingredients to emulsion

  • When the solid oils are fully melted, remove the pans from the heat and set them on potholders on your worktop. Pour one pan of melted oil into the jug of orange liquid oil and the second pan of melted oil into the jug of black oil.* Stir each well with separate spoons or spatulas.
    Orange oil in one plastic jug and black oil in a second. Empty pans used for melting solid oils are behind.
  • Measure the temperatures of the lye solution and the oils. You should aim to cool them both to about 95-100°F / 35-38°C. Use an infrared thermometer or a digital kitchen thermometer. With four separate containers of ingredients to monitor, this can be challenging, so just aim for them to all be within about ten degrees of one another and around the target temperature.
  • Prepare to work quickly from this point, so have the mold, skewer, and immersion blender ready.
  • When both lye solutions and both oils reach a good temperature, it's time to get to work. Pour one lye solution into the orange oils and stir briefly with a spoon or spatula. Pour the second lye solution into the black oils and stir that one too.
  • Dip the stick blender into the orange oils and mix it into an emulsion*. This is the stage where the oils and lye solution have combined, and the mixture looks opaque but just before it starts showing signs of thickening into trace. You do not want it very thick at this stage.
    A gloved hand holds an immersion blender in a jug filled with orange oil and lye solution.
  • Then use the same immersion blender to emulsify the black oils and lye solution. It may come together more quickly than the paprika-tinted portion.

Molding and mixing the soap batter

  • It's time to pour the soap batter into the soap mold. Take precautions not to muddy the orange soap with the black, so use separate spatulas/spoons to help get it into the mold.
  • Begin with the black; pour it into the 4 quadrants of the soap mold. Together, you will use up about a third of the batter.
  • Next, pour the orange batter into each spot where you previously poured the black. Again, you will use about a third of the batter.
    Pouring orange and black soap batter into a white slab mold.
  • Use spatulas to scrape the remaining soap batter from each jug and drizzle it on top. Try to get it all out and into the mold.
  • Settle the mold by lifting it up and tapping it on the counter. Next, take up a skewer or chopstick.
  • To create the design, start at one corner, dip the skewer all the way to the bottom, then pull it in one motion across to the other side. Slide or reposition the skewer about an inch down, then pull it back in one motion to the other side. Repeat this all the way down the soap. Stop and don't swirl any further, or you'll muddy the colors.
    A hand is dragging the second of six lines through the soap.
  • Ensure the soap gels, however you prefer. I like setting the soap in a pre-warmed oven (75℃/170℉), closing the door, turning off the heat, and leaving it inside overnight.
    Orange and black soap swirls in a white slab mold. You can see where the skewer drags down then drags up. The marks are about an inch apart.
  • The next day, take the soap out of the oven and leave it in a safe place for another day.

Cure the soap bars

  • Two days after making it, remove the soap block from the mold and cut it into bars. You can use a fine wire or soap cutter, but a kitchen knife works for this recipe, too. The size is up to you, but I cut it into 4 chunky bars.
    One thing to watch out for when cutting is that the charcoal colored portions can smudge onto the orange areas if you're not careful. Try to cut each bar in confident single cuts and avoid wiggling or sawing the wire or knife back and forth.
    A slab of orange and black swirled soap on a cutting board about to be sliced into four bars.
  • Cure it for 4-6 weeks. Curing soap means leaving the bars spaced out on a protected surface, out of direct sunlight, and in an airy place. This lets the extra water evaporate off. Curing also makes the soap better to use and gentler on the skin.
  • Although optional, I also beveled the edges of these soaps using a potato peeler. I also gently washed them with warm water and let them dry again. This step makes the orange and black colors pop!
  • Once made, this soap can last up to two years, though the essential oil will likely begin to fade after about three to six months. Check the oil bottles that you're using, though. Use the closest best-by date you find as your soap's best-by date.

Notes

*Mixing the essential oils into the liquid oils helps save a step later on in the soapmaking process. 
*This is especially important for a 1x batch of this soap recipe. Immersion blending in a pan will be difficult if the oil and lye solution level is too shallow. Using a jug helps keep the immersion blender head submerged.
*The technique I use is to hold the immersion blender head stationary at the bottom of the pan/jub and blitz it for just a couple of seconds. Then I turn it off and stir the soap batter, using the blender as a spoon. Repeat until the mixture reaches an emulsion. If it starts to trace (thickens to a custard-like consistency), stop and work very quickly from there.

Tried this project?Let us know how it was!

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